Random Misfire

First off, get rid of those shit Bosch plugs and put in oem Denso or NGK BKR5EKB-11, don't use iridium of any brand unless you have a supercharger. These engines are picky about the plugs you use, countless owners have learned their lesson when not using the right plugs.

Well, you probably didn't need to change the knock sensors out themselves, they don't really go bad that often if ever, they're basically just a hunk of metal that measures resonance, they hear knocks on the block and assume it's engine knock then cut fuel under hard acceleration to prevent damage.

You need to make certain it's the cat before you change it, cutting off a functional oem catalytic converter because of a desperate attempt to fix something is an extremely foolhardy move. Cheap aftermarket replacements suck and they never last, and oem replacements are really expensive.

Here's an easy check
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=psIFUZaLLaM

More of the same, little more info
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0

Try this stuff before you cut off the cat. I've seen some YouTube videos saying it worked pretty awesome.
http://www.cataclean.com

There is no "procedure" for knock sensor timing setup or timing belts. If you got the timing belt on right, there shouldn't be an issue.

Check to see if the fuel pump is functioning correctly, find a video on how to test it properly or have a shop do it.

Is your MAF sensor clean? Clean your throttle body?

 

I did clean the throttle body thoroughly while changing out the Knock Sensor's...

I will change out the plugs, I was a little weary about running them; although it was a recommendation.

I saw threads on here where people had changed Knock sensors and were still having issues afterwards. I kind of had a feeling something was not going to jive.
I picked the truck up with close to 190k on it so I am kind of shooting in the dark a little bit.

I actually had a shop run a diagnostic on the Cat. I just found a new one for $60 on craigslist.

I appreciate the advice & input I will run through these steps.

Thanks again.

 

I really think the plugs will help tremendously, I use there NGK's, they come pregapped to .44 which they are supposed to be for the 5vzfe, I've never seen the gaps off, I usually check, they come well packaged with a protective sleeve. Many say it's a good idea to check them, but they are a dual electrode plug, if you gap them and the 2 electrodes aren't perfectly spaced, if 1 is closer, it will fire like a single electrode because electricity always takes the path of least resistance. If you insist of gapping them, you need to be careful how you check the gap, the opening between the tip and the electrode is curved so using a proper tool is important, you measure the gap at it's even circumference, not flat across the tip to the outermost tips of the curve on the electrode

This video is for single electrode plugs, but the tool recommendation and technique works best if you want to gap dual electrode plugs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY

 

I did the cataclean thing on the 21st, last week. I'm not going to say I'm impressed. But it did something, so im not going to say don't buy it. it does do something. my engine seems to be able to start up a little easier.

 

Yeah, I did the cataclean thing too, doubt it did much. Years ago everyone was on the Seafoam and Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner kick, I figured I'd try it in case I had any carb buildup since I'm about to do a huge 270,000 mile service (timing belt/water pump, valve cover gaskets, coolant bypass pipe/knock sensor harness/intake manifold, oil cooler gasket, front main, cam seals, etc). Mostly it says it helps with clogged cats and there were a few videos on Youtube saying it helped a ton with those vehicles. I just figured a $25 bottle of that stuff if it helped was a hell of a lot cheeper than a new cat.

 

I may be missing a couple of parts & hoses. I guess the PO found a better use for them.

I ran the truck late last night and it ran the best it has since I have owned it.
I ran it this morning and it ran great for about 20 miles.
Then it started having the same symptons with losing power and just not running great.

I have also lost my heat & it will blow a faint fog through the vents every now & then.

Can someone tell me what this part is? I have been trying to find a decent diagram on it.

 

What the hell?!??! That's your heater controls and the inlet and outlet to the heater core, that's totally fucked, I'd be pissed, I'm pissed for you, no wonder you don't have heat, he must've bypassed your heater core or something, that is some bullshit!!!

 

Look a little different? The hoses come off the two pipes on the back of the engine, one of them the coolant bypass pipe you probable saw when you were doing the knock sensors. I bet that asshole just put a loop of hose between the two.

What a fucking jerk, No doubt the heater core is toast and he jimmy'd it to sell it. Heater cores are pretty cheep, not really any need to get oem Toyota on that, just get a parts house one. Changing them isn't too bad, I did the last one in under 4 hours. Don't pull off the top of the dash like Toyota says, just go through where the radio and all that shit is. That sucks man, I feel for you.

 

And I gotta comment, I'm still on the tank of gas I filled up on after the Cataclean, and it seems to be doing some good. I did just change my plugs, but I've had a hesitation after startup upon accelerating for the first time in the morning for the entire life of the truck, not really a big issue because it goes away after it gets rid of whatever is bugging it, but that seems to have gone and my mileage is going up about an mpg (mileage may be plugs, my old ones were a little over 30,000 miles old so they were done).

NF2001Yota, I really do recommend you change your plugs ASAP and for $25 the Cataclean may help so I'd try it.

 

only reason i've heard of for bypassing the heater core is it is leaking and costs too much to replace since you have to take quite a bit off the console/dash to change it on some cars, maybe this one?. if you have a compressor or air you can blow in the ports, plug one end and see if it's losing air.

 

parts alone to repair the heater core are 51-120 depending on what configuration you have. plus whatever labor involved to tear down much of the dashboard. that's the killer right there.

 

Just do it yourself, it's not that hard. Just start pulling the dash apart, take pics as you go. All it is is the radio, heater controls, the ducting, I'd say if you have the common sense to pull a radio bezel apart and swap a head unit and have the common sense to swap a radiator, you can change your heater core, that's all a heater core is, a small radiator in a plastic box burried behind a bunch of wires and ducts and shit.

When I did it, I looked at a factory service manual online when they used to be available on TTORA, saw a bunch of steps I thought of as unnecessary like pulling off the dash top, said forget that and it went just fine, 2 years later and everything is still good.

I found a heater core for $85 shipped on Amazon, might wanna double check all of the heater control cables work before you go swapping the heater core, the heater control on the firewall looks like it should be replaced, probably not too pricey a part. Go order new molded heater hoses from Toyota, get a gallon of coolant from a parts store and do it on a Saturday, good as new.

 

Im Changing the plugs tonight & was going to throw in a can of Seafoam.
Also going to check the Fuel Filter to see if there is any trash. (its only 3 weeks old) but there may be trash in the tank.
Im also checking the Cat temp tonight and going to thoroughly clean the MFA.

I Really hope that will fix the issue.
Thanks for the picture. I have been looking for one because I cant figure out how to run it.

 

I think the OP abandoned this thread, after the mass hi-jacking. He needs to start another one to solve his issue.

 

Who are you, the fucking thread police?

Maybe the op isn't worried about his truck or his problem is solved so I don't think I'm gonna worry about his issues til he pipes up.

Squeaky wheel gets the grease so pardon me for trying to help the dude asking for help

 

Yeah, My bad for jacking the thread.

Pretty sure you hit the nail on the head @Laxtoy

 

My bad on the shitty pic.

I threw in some seafoam last night & and cleaned the hell out of the throttle body.
Im thinking about changing out the cat anyways since it will only cost $70 for a new one.

I did break the damn back of the airbox where it connects to the actual box in front of the MFA sensor.
Pretty sure it was already half broken. I guess ill try a junk yard to replace, not something I want to really rig.

Now I just have to figure out whats wrong with my front differential. Weld on my front bumper and all should be good...



Does anyone have any insight on these front differentials breaking gears or just not engaging all the way.
Mine is hoping/popping when I put it in 4x4.

Thanks

 

You didn't jack the thread dude.

I swear, some people on this site are just into stirring the pot, that guy's comment had zero helpful, constructive or positive aspects to it, other than to distract from the matter at hand in an extremely odd way to cause empathy for the op whose needs we supposedly stomped on. How again did we do that?

This is a thread on a "forum" (which I believe forum to actually mean a place where people get together to share CONSTRUCTIVE ideas) about a truck not running right, your truck meets the criteria so screw that guy for crying about the injustice and insensitivity to the op, I doubt the op could give a shit, and if he does, let him speak for himself, I'm sure he can fight his own battles. Jackass.

We're on here to try to help and get help, I am anyway. Anyway, back to business.

You definitely want to get that air box fixed, that may add to the fact things aren't running right if the air volume were affected giving you a strange reading at the maf sensor, that'll change your fuel trims I bet perhaps not letting you get to the right loop cycle at the ecu.

The diff sounds like a broken spider gear which isn't uncommon, but you may want to drain it to see if you get any metal chunks out of it. You need a 10 mm hex drive for the bolts in the diff like this

If you find hunks of metal, that sucks, it's shot.

Do you know your gear ratio?
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tacoma-gear-ratio.521302/
You can usually get cheap used ones here and check the for sale sections at TTORA and yotatech, those are both good forums and diffs go up for sale all the time.

 

I can see how the intake could throw a wrench in the motor performance.
WHat are your thoughts on Air intake?
I would really rather keep it stock because I use it in pretty dusty & wet conditions.

Yea I was able to find the gear ratio for the front its 4:10.
Someone out of Utah is selling a Front differential on the site that would fit my truck but the gear ratio is 3:58

I actually used it this weekend & it does pop. but it sounds almost like its not catching(Engaging) fully into 4x4. once it grabs it will work but then pop.

Do you know where I can find out the weight for the front diff & the transfer case?

Thanks again man.