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ratiotek transmission upgrade how to

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by mightytacoman, Jan 12, 2018.

  1. Jan 12, 2018 at 7:20 AM
    #1
    mightytacoman

    mightytacoman [OP] Mighty-known Member

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    Here is a good do it yourself upgrade to your 5 spd automatic transmission on your Tacoma. The kit is by Ratiotek and cost about $30. It increases clutch clamping power by about 38% and decreases time between shifts. This helps put power to the ground more effectively. It should get rid of torque converter shudder too as pressures are increased. These trucks come with "luxury shift" from the factory. This is great for easy going drivers as it is very smooth going between gears. Luxury shift works by allowing the clutch to slip more so you don't feel the shifts as much however, it increases transmission wear because of the extra slipping. This kit firms that up and the best way I can describe it is it feels like you let the clutch out fast on a manual but not in a bad way (it feels good if you like to drive aggressively) This write up is for the "HD" kit. It is mainly made for trucks that have superchargers, turbochargers and or NOS.

    I spoke with the creator of the kit (Steve Younger) and he said it should work with a750e and a750f transmissions up to 2015. The box I got mine in said it was good for up to 2008 so a phone call had to be placed to be sure.

    I wanted to thank @12TRDTacoma and @gearcruncher for helping me with this. I'm no "expert" so If they or anyone sees a problem with how I did this, I encourage all to call me out on this post to further help the next guy.

    Lastly, I want to say this isn't for everyone or a Do-it-yourself beginner. If screwed up, you might need to go buy a new valve body and they aren't cheap. Should you decide to do this, I'll help the best I can. I know of at least two people that screwed these up so it does happen. I believe my way of doing this should prevent problems but I can't guarantee it. Any modifications you do to your truck are on you and I can't be held responsible.

    To start (and finish) you'll need,
    -A large pan to catch the draining fluid.
    -Extra transmission fluid for the refill (I recommend having at least 8 quarts on hand)
    -Dr. Tranny Assembly GOO (While in theory not needed. Its a HUGE help to defy gravity when reassembling.)
    -I recommend adding a quart of Lubegard Platinum and a unit of Dr. Tranny instant Shudder fix at the time of refill. Both tried and true products.
    -A fluid pump to refill the transmission.
    -10mm socket w/ratchet.
    -14mm or 9/16" socket w/ratchet for drain bolt.
    -24mm socket w/ratchet for refill bolt.
    -Small wire to jump pins OBD2 pins 4 and 13 to enter temp check mode.
    -5mm allen for the "filled to level" bolt.
    -Highly recommend a torque wrench that does inch pounds.
    -A new transmission filter (~$20)
    -Junk piece of cardboard.
    -A camera, take lots of photos at each step. Should you run into trouble, its much easier to look back at how it was.

    Here is a Helpful video.
    https://youtu.be/P1XdzmjdsPo


    Here is how to do the drain and fill.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/


    Start by draining the transmission pan as much as you can, then remove the bolts holding it in place. (approx 20 bolts)

    Remove the Transmission filter (4 bolts) don't loose the rubber O ring on the back side of it.

    1.jpg
    With the pan and filter pulled off, you have now exposed all bolts on the valve body. The manual lever (bottom left in pic) needs to be removed when you drop the valve body. It simply slides into a hole but it can't be removed until you start to drop the valve body.



    2.jpg
    Disconnect all the solenoids and pull out all the 10 mm bolts. A few are different lengths (about 4 up near the front of the truck IIRC). Make a note of them and where they came from.



    3.jpg
    Two parts fell out when dropping the valve body. One in the square hole (top right) one in the circular hole (top middle) more might fall out when you drop yours. Just take note of how they go together and set them aside for now.



    4.jpg
    This is step one. Easy to do, take apart, add spring, reassemble. The picture sucks I know, the top of the picture is at the bottom. The b1 accumulator is at the top right of this photo.



    5.jpg
    The black upper plate and white lower plate in this picture. Note them for now. When breaking apart the valve body, you won't have to worry about moving check balls around if you pull these apart correctly. The check balls are in two locations. location 1 is in between the very top plate in the this pic and the black plate cover. location 2 is in between the middle plate and the white plate underneath it. Be VERY careful when separating these as check ball locations can vary from year to year and you don't want them to fall out.



    6.jpg
    I used cardboard when pulling screws. Something I learned when helping friends do headstuds and EGR delete on big diesels. Lengths very and this way the bolts will go back in the same holes without question. Unscrew these screws and pull the top plate gasket (black plate in previous pic) WITH the upper body so that checkballs can't fall out or move, now flip it over to the side so that the top plate is upside down and you can now pull the plate to drill the holes.
    (drilling holes is step 2)



    7.jpg
    The kit comes with the necessary drill bits. This is from the directions that come with the kit. It looks intimidating I know but you're not drilling new holes, you're simply making 3 holes that are already there bigger.




    FB_IMG_1519765616771.jpg
    This is what the top plate that you need to drill out looks like. Shavings show what holes are drilled.


    9.jpg
    Picture of the check ball locations on my 2009 Tacoma. Yours might be different depending on the year. Take a picture of this yourself. You don't want to put a ball in a wrong location!


    10.jpg
    My cardboard template of the rest of the screws on the valve body. Again lengths very so make yourself a template to avoid any possible mix up.



    11.jpg
    Now the white lower plate from the diagram above.. Pull it WITH this piece so that check balls can't move. Set this together off to the side. No need to flip it or anything, just make sure the metal separating cover doesn't move or come off of the middle piece. The bolts still in the valve body top plate are all undone here but are in place to prevent parts from shifting accidentally.



    12.jpg
    This is what you're left to work with now. No check balls to screw up. But you will be removing parts to add springs to two solenoids on the right side of the valve body in this pic.



    13.jpg
    Note the step that yours is on (take a picture). It has to go back together on the same step shown here (the middle step).



    14.jpg
    Note this step too. Has to go back in so that it sits as deep in the valve body as possible. One slot deeper than shown in this photo per the install directions


    15.jpg
    Just more info I found and another picture to help.


    16.jpg
    Install the springs as shown in this pic. The parts are a tight fit but keep working it and it will go back together. The springs that come in the kit have a touch of paint on them so you cant accidently put them in the wrong locations. You shouldn't have to force anything. After you've installed the parts, you're done except reassembly. Congratulations!
    All bolts that hold the valve body together should be torqued to 90in lbs(7.5ftlbs)
    The bolts that hold the valve body to the transmission should be torqued to 96in lbs(8ft lbs)
    If you decided to remove the brackets that hold the solenoids in place (8mm bolts) then tighten them to 57in lbs(4.75ft lbs)


    17.jpg
    The "parts" that fell out when you removed the valve body? Coat them in Dr Tranny assembly goo (yes it's called that) this is a thick green grease made for this job. You can see it in this pic. It breaks down at low temperatures (130°F) and is safe to use for this. Reinstall valve body, reconnect solenoids install a new filter, new gasket (kit comes with one) and the pan.
    Torque on transmission filter is 84in lbs (7ft lbs)
    Torque on the pan bolts is 40-50in lbs. It is recommended to snug them all first in a star pattern then torque then in a star pattern too.
    Torque on overflow plug and drain plug is 15ft lbs
    Torque on refill plug (the 24mm bolt) is 29ft lbs.
    Do a refill procedure, take for a short drive and check level again. Top off as necessary. Mine had a little air in it after filling properly so double check it.



    18.jpg
    This is the exact kit I purchased off Amazon. Also available on eBay and elsewhere im sure. I questioned the years it was good for but the creator of the kit told me is good for up to 2015.
     

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  2. Jan 12, 2018 at 9:47 AM
    #2
    12TRDTacoma

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    This job IS NOT for the faint of heart, or if you have a low attention to detail.

    Side note. Lifeguard Platinum and Dr. Tranny should not be necessary to use if you have a transmission in proper working order. I never used it on mine at 60K when I did it and you shouldn't have to either. The disclaimer to using that is that it will cause additional wear on your transmission as even stated by Steve Younger himself.

    The rest of this write up appears to be well written and mostly well documented. I will re-read later just to make sure things are looking on the up and up and will add it to my tips and tricks thread. Good job Mightytacoman.
     
  3. Jan 12, 2018 at 9:49 AM
    #3
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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  4. Jan 12, 2018 at 12:04 PM
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    07 sport 4x4

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    How many miles since you did the upgrade? The Dr tranny causes more wear? I wouldn't think the lubegard itself would hurt anything, but I have no experience with the dr tranny.

    I've been wanting to do this on my 07, it shifts normally and doesn't have any issues but it has always felt lazy. I would like a fimer, more positive upshift(ever driven a Ford 6.7 with the 6r140? Those have a great feeling up and downshift.)
    Did installing the kit make your transmission downshift quicker while going up grades/hills, my truck always tries to hold a gear for too long going uphill and will lug along until I increase the throttle and force a downshift. I figure that has more to do with the software/programming than it does hard parts, but if this would help with that I'd be thrilled.
     
  5. Jan 12, 2018 at 12:11 PM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    Middle step on the piston (whatever you want to call it) is what the shift kit manual wants you to set it at. Revise your original post because the way you pulled it out is not the way it goes back in.

    On the sleeve, it has to be positioned in such a fashion where it gets set to it's deepest setting when installed back into the valve body. Your picture is very helpful, but for guys who are less visual and more clerical, this is for them.

    It's been some 20 or 25K miles. I am under the firm belief that if you must add any additives outside of standard transmission ATF, than you are attempting to repair, mask, or modify functionality on otherwise poorly designed internals in the transmission.

    Clamping force is greater, the upshifts are crisp, firm, and the downshifting, upshifting and overall feel as a whole are HIGHLY improved over stocks lazy feeling. It has been so long since I've done the upgrade that I have grown accustomed to the feeling and dismiss the way it shifts now as normal behavior.
     
  6. Jan 12, 2018 at 12:37 PM
    #6
    mightytacoman

    mightytacoman [OP] Mighty-known Member

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    @12TRDTacoma I revised It to add clarification for others. Good catch!
     
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  7. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:06 PM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    @mightytacoman please insert in post the proper torque values for valve body when reassembling, and finally the proper torque value for valve body to transmission case as well.

    Pro tip:

    90 in. lb equates to 7.5 ft. lb. If you do not have an in. lb. Torque wrench.

    96 in. lbs. Is 8 ft. lb.
     
  8. Jan 13, 2018 at 6:51 AM
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    mightytacoman

    mightytacoman [OP] Mighty-known Member

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    Brian Crower stroker kit, Carrillo pistons moly/ceramic coated, BC sportsman rods, arp s2000 head bolts, Darton M.I.D sleeves, Kelford race cams, Magnusson supercharger, hp tuner tuned, 650cc flow matched fuel injectors, CSF radiator, Walbro 255 fuel pump. pulleyboys quick change pulley with 2.3", fpr mod, NST crank, water and alternator pullies, 160° mishimoto thermostat. Puma On-board air, Radflo CDC ext coilovers with 14" 700# springs, extended length rear Radflo shocks with CDC, Dakar leak pack, Brute Force Fab front bumper galvanized and powder coated, DTRL mod, yellow fogs, fog anytime mod, relocated rear differential breather, synthetic fluids, custom airbox, tundra sized intake. 76mm throttle body, secondary air filter removed, Airflow snorkel, 4x innovation sliders powder coated, URD equal length headers, DT y-pipe, Aero-Turbine 2525xl exhaust dumped over axle, seat belt chime disabled, Warn 8000i winch, 1- 20" slim light bar in grill, 42" curved roof light both with custom brackets. Mesh grill, Brute Force Fab rear bumper with extra reverse lights, u bolt flip kit, SS extended brake lines, hockey puck bump stop extension, AT shackle flip kit, Light Racing UCA's, 4crawler 1.5" bodylift. custom built front and mid skid plates, re-geared to 4.56s, windows tinted 25%, Sony stereo, 8" skar sub-woofer, 1000 watt mono amp, retrofit headlights with legal demon eye, Kryptek Marathon seat covers. North Star agm 27f battery, Helo 791 rims, 315/75/r16 Mt/r ARB front air locker
    @12TRDTacoma torque numbers of valve body bolts, valve body to transmission bolts, transmission filter bolts, pan bolts, drain plug bolt , overflow plug bolt and fill bolt added to original post.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
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  9. Jan 13, 2018 at 9:28 AM
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    Old School

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    Subbed to find out if this kit works on the '15 transmission !
    @gearcruncher
     
  10. Jan 13, 2018 at 9:31 AM
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    mightytacoman

    mightytacoman [OP] Mighty-known Member

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    Brian Crower stroker kit, Carrillo pistons moly/ceramic coated, BC sportsman rods, arp s2000 head bolts, Darton M.I.D sleeves, Kelford race cams, Magnusson supercharger, hp tuner tuned, 650cc flow matched fuel injectors, CSF radiator, Walbro 255 fuel pump. pulleyboys quick change pulley with 2.3", fpr mod, NST crank, water and alternator pullies, 160° mishimoto thermostat. Puma On-board air, Radflo CDC ext coilovers with 14" 700# springs, extended length rear Radflo shocks with CDC, Dakar leak pack, Brute Force Fab front bumper galvanized and powder coated, DTRL mod, yellow fogs, fog anytime mod, relocated rear differential breather, synthetic fluids, custom airbox, tundra sized intake. 76mm throttle body, secondary air filter removed, Airflow snorkel, 4x innovation sliders powder coated, URD equal length headers, DT y-pipe, Aero-Turbine 2525xl exhaust dumped over axle, seat belt chime disabled, Warn 8000i winch, 1- 20" slim light bar in grill, 42" curved roof light both with custom brackets. Mesh grill, Brute Force Fab rear bumper with extra reverse lights, u bolt flip kit, SS extended brake lines, hockey puck bump stop extension, AT shackle flip kit, Light Racing UCA's, 4crawler 1.5" bodylift. custom built front and mid skid plates, re-geared to 4.56s, windows tinted 25%, Sony stereo, 8" skar sub-woofer, 1000 watt mono amp, retrofit headlights with legal demon eye, Kryptek Marathon seat covers. North Star agm 27f battery, Helo 791 rims, 315/75/r16 Mt/r ARB front air locker
    Per the maker of the kit (Steve Younger) he said it would work up to 2015 as stated above. But of course, feel free to call him yourself if you don't believe that's what he told me.
     
  11. Jan 13, 2018 at 11:49 AM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    It works.

    2005-2015 transmissions are all a750e.
     
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  12. Jan 15, 2018 at 6:48 PM
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    68vert

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    How long has it been since the upgrade and what are the opinions?
     
  13. Jan 15, 2018 at 7:50 PM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    Depends who you are asking?

    There are no options. Install the RatioTek kit or run the transmission in stock configuration.
     
  14. Jan 15, 2018 at 8:58 PM
    #14
    07 sport 4x4

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    Has anybody that has installed this watched their transmission temps closely? Any change in the before/after?
     
  15. Jan 15, 2018 at 10:59 PM
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    loginfailed

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    After doing this on my 2014, I had no 5th gear. The inside of an auto trans is not my area of expertise and I’m the first to admit this. I took it back apart twice to double check everything with the same result.

    I pressed the easy button and made a call to John at IPT for a complete performance transmission and torque converter. That is what I wanted to do in the first place, so I guess I’m out $30 and good bit of elbow grease.
     
  16. Jan 16, 2018 at 2:31 AM
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    07 sport 4x4

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    Did you get the IPT back yet? Ask them if they know what you did wrong so maybe it'll help the rest of us out if we decide to do this.
     
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  17. Jan 16, 2018 at 3:42 AM
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    loginfailed

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    Yes, I installed it a couple of weekends ago.

    I didn’t send him my old transmission becuase I didn’t want the truck to be down for 2 weeks. I bought a low mileage trans from a salvage yard and had it shipped to him.

    I have the old one on an engine stand and I’m going to send the valve body to John. He said he wouldn’t charge me to take a look at it and get it right so I could then sell my old trans or keep it as a spare.
     
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  18. Jan 16, 2018 at 6:11 AM
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    68vert

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    Looking for more feedback from guys who have done the ratiotek shiftkit. How long have you guys been running it and any problems?
     
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  19. Jan 16, 2018 at 12:25 PM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    Over 20K easily. Zero problems when reassembled correctly and filled to proper level.
     
  20. Jan 16, 2018 at 1:19 PM
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    gearcruncher

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    Vehicle:
    2010.TRD.SportDCLB4x4Limited leather package
    TRD Sport Rally -5 speed automatic Limited ,Factory heated leather seats ,chrome package,Super white with front windows tinted to 35 % Dick Cepek DC-2 wheels Summer tires - Good year silent armor P265/65R17 Winter tires - Good year P265/65R17 Ultra Ice studded Illuminated 4x4 switch TRD 3rd brake light cover ($20) TRD seat belt shoulder protectors (5). ($50) TRD ...B pillar emblems ($20) TRD rear slider sticker with devil horns ( $6) TRD summer floor matts ($60) TRD steering wheel emblem ($20) TRD floor pedals .($95) TRD shorty antenna ($14) TRD front Windshield emblems ($17) TRD head pillows .($60) TRD head rest protectors TRD door scuff protection $20 TRD floor matt emblems ($40) TRD tow plug emblem . ($40) TRD cigarette lighter with LED.($35) TRD tissue dispenser ($12) TRD front bezel emblems ($9) TRD door emblems ($6) TRD lanyards($9) TRD lisence plates with TRD bolts($50) TRD fender emblems TRD center caps Part Number:PT904-35070-CC ($80) TRD cd
    Interested in selling it ?
    There is this member ?
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/second-transmission-at-48-000-miles-fail.527794/

    I tried searching the ratio tech kit ....Cant find it anywhere now ?
    Where can I purchase one other than down under ?
     
    loginfailed likes this.

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