RCLT HD 2.75" - Travel Numbers and Notes

It is the same issue that you found, except his issue went on longer and resulted in more of a failure. With the soft bushing failing there is now more play in the steering rack, this puts all the steering force on the driver's side hard bushing. With continued use this force causes the crossmember to fail. I reached out to Marlin because what I am experiencing are the symptoms before Nate's issue. My steering pump has already failed, my soft bushing has failed, and the rack is pivoting on the hard bushing. That is a lot of force to have on that side and the crossmember will fail next, unless some other solution is found.

 

Marlin just responded saying, again, I am the only one with this issue and that Nate's issue is completely different. This is my understanding of the situation. If someone more experienced has more insight, I'd appreciate the feedback. It is possible that I am wrong.

During the installation for RCLT the drivers side bushing of the steering rack is replaced with a hard bushing. This leaves the passenger side as a soft bushing. This is my understanding of the situation:

1. You have a hard bushing on the driver's side and a soft bushing on the passenger side.
2. The soft bushing will naturally have more play in it than the driver's side.
3. More play on the soft side puts more force on the hard side.
4. After time, enough play on the soft side will cause the bushing to fail, creating more play, putting more force on the hard side.
5. This causes the entire rack to pivot on the hard bushing / driver's side, putting extra force on the bushing sleeve and sub frame.
6. This eventually causes the power steering pump to overwork and the sub frame to fail at the hard bushing.

My power steering pump has already failed. My soft bushing has failed. The entire rack is pivoting on the hard bushing causing the rack to move when turning the wheel. Continued use, without a solution, will cause the hard bushing sleeve and sub frame to fail.

What am I missing or not understanding?

 

This is correct. The design is flawed, just because the rack itself can handle more weight doesnt mean the mounting points can. If an mechanical device is mounted on anchor points that are not equally susceptible to torque load, one of them will yeild while the other stays in place.

This is why the aluminum reinforced polyurethane bushing gets destroyed, and simultaneously the hard mounting point (solid aluminum sleeve) takes all of the torque load. That load fatigues the stock crossmember to the point of failure. It is 100% without a doubt going to happen to every single kit that is used to rock crawl, just a matter of time.

Marlin needs to address it. As a Certified Installer of the kit I can attest to it as a failure point.

They should sell a single all encompassing one piece combo crossmember/rack/LCA reinforcement bracket to fix the problem in its entirety. Your already cleaning prepping and welding all around that area, just make a complete slip over 3 sided xmember reinforcement that also has built in sleeves for the appropriate mounting points of the LC200 Rack.

Done Deal.... Marlin, if you dont address this than kick rocks. You cant ride on the coattails of your legacy forever. Pony up fuckers.

 

Well here is Marlin's response. I am flabbergasted that they seem to think the issues are not related and are now doubling down saying it is the rack itself:

Marlin:

The issue you are presenting has nothing to do with what happened to Nate's sub-frame; we verified this ourselves by speaking directly to him. To be clear, the issue you had did not happen to him before his sub-frame failure.

I see your concern and yes it does make complete sense to me, thank you for asking. However, this has not been an issue at all when using a quality Toyota OEM 200-series steering rack. If you are using an aftermarket rack, then I would suggest trying an OEM rack to address your issue.

 

I like how Marlin just assumes it’s a non-OEM rack instead of just asking the fucking customer. Clowns.

 

Well there's that, but the rack hasn't failed, the soft bushing has. I am running an OEM rack, but are we to understand that an aftermarket rack would somehow handle physics differently?

But the main thing is, how is my issue any different than Nate's issue? It seems totally obvious to me that my rack is showing the signs leading up to his total sub frame failure.

I genuinely don't see any other way to look at it, which is why I posted here to get feedback and alternative insight from those more experienced than I am.

 

Yeah, you’re totally right about the bushings. We all understand what is happening but these guys are clearly just gaslighting you. I’m sure @BigMike will be in here this weekend copying and pasting marketing material about the rack and saying it could never fail. I’m sorry you’re having this issue but I would suggest, for your own sanity, just cut a run from Marlin and work on your own solution for the rack. Re-enforce the crossmember and find your self some replacement bushings.

Hey @BigMike, I know you see this. We know the game you’re playing and you will lose in the end if you keep this shit up.

 

Is it time for full hydro yet?

 

Seems like getting hydro dialed in for street driving is a bit of a challenge. Nothing is wrong with my rack, it is just the bushing. I reached out to Marlin to see if the hard bushing would fit on the passenger side. Things have devolved from there.

 

I like how they said by talking to him they can guarantee your issues aren’t related….like wtf are they gonna determine from just talking to him….not to mention Nate likes cutting corners as it is…

 

Sorry guys…we spent most of our budget on marketing instead of making sure the kit worked.

 

Yeah, that baffles me. If you watch his video you can see the issue is the play in his steering rack, specifically related to the two mounting points. Thats the same issue I am having, except I have caught the issue sooner.

 

Call me at the shop on Monday and I’m happy to help you figure out the best solution

 

@Tac05 safe to say the deterioration of the soft bushing is from steering stress from large tires and rock crawling? I’m curious if this issue exists on a LC200 running larger tires (there are very few 200’s running over 35” tires). I would assume the soft bushing on the mar rack would see less stress than in the LC200 OEM configuration since the hard mounted side on the mar rack can’t flex but that will place more stress on the mount on the frame on that side to your point. If the hard mount isn’t moving then the only movement the soft bushing should be able to see is front to back or up and down when the tie rod is putting a side load on the rack - not pushing linear straight into the rack.

The solid bushing that Marlin supplies is drilled off center, so an additional bushing wouldn’t solve the issue it would have to be a new part with the holes drilled on center. Since one side of the rack is already hard mounted you lose the vibration dampening of having a bushing mounted rack, you may as well have both sides hard mounted.

So even though the 200 racks cylinder can supposedly handle the side loads the interface between the rack and frame can’t. It seems like a solid bushing on the other side and reinforcing both mounts, possibly even considering a double shear mount to support the head of the rack bolts would solve the issue.

I think I’m just restating points that you and others have already made, just trying to get it straight in my head . I’m considering this kit for my GX so I’m curious to see how marlin resolves this, I’m optimistic that they would consider improvements to it since more people are now running it and can find what it’s shortcomings are.

 

thinking marlin is gonna do anything since "only" Taco5 has seen this problem.

 

I have my tundra rack hard mounted and daily drive the truck with no complaints, reinforced the stock sleeves and havent had a problem yet. Kinda brainstormed a double sheer a couple weeks back for fun if my setup ends up going to shit

 

I was under the impression they did something about the goofy power steering line connection but maybe I misunderstood.

another thought on the rack mounting is can you build a bracket off of the back of the crossmember to pick up the center mount bungs on the rack? That would take some stress off of the other two mounts.

I do find it a bit funny that everyone thought they could just slap on this kit and run 40s with no other mods and are now mad that their tires rub, I know thats oversimplification of the complaints but that’s the basics of it. Marlin did screw up in their marketing claims and people ended up with unrealistic expectations.

 

Yeah saying oh you don’t need to cut to fit it is just unrealistic false marketing. Just trying to cycle my 35’s with 16” of travel requires extensive cutting including the firewall. And I want to have the ability to run 37’s… it all comes down to there’s only so much room between the headlights and the firewall. Eventually ones gotta give. I would think running two solid bushings in the rack and doing some bottom reinforcement plates for the bolts should solve most the problems.

 

I am not sure if you are grouping me into that category. I'm running 37s with extensive cutting and relocating. I dont believe it is possible to run larger tires without limiting up travel or removing the headlights.

I am not mad about the steering issue. I presented it to Marlin a month ago to see if the supplied hard bushing would fit on the passenger side so I could work towards solving it. I also wanted them to know that this was a potential issue others would be facing. I am disappointed that the kit only replaces one bushing, leaving the rack compromised. Yes, this is a separate issue then the high pressure line hack adapter.

The do say you can run 37+ tires without a cab mount chop, which is BS because all the other trimming is much more involved. They do say no more steering rack failures, which is BS if you end up with sub-frame failures.

Well, step one is finding a solid bushing for the passenger side. Maybe they can send one of their driver side bushings before it gets drilled. Otherwise I will need to find someone to make one. Unless anyone knows of a replacement?

Two solid mounts and double shear is the way to go.

I appreciate that. What's your shop?

 

Harry aka @81Trekker works at JD Fab.
https://jdfabrication.com/pages/contact