Re-gearing, what all is needed?

Gears are just too damn complicated.

 

Naaa just gotta decide what you wanna do. Drive to Starbucks or driver anywhere

 

Did I ever say down shifting was a problem? You said there isn't much difference, but when I notice hills that required downshifting with smaller tires before no longer do with bigger tires, that is a real and observable difference. Or, if hills that required 4lo with small tires before no longer do with bigger tires, yeah, I see that as a real difference. As you say, to each his own, and not everyone notices things about their vehicle anyway, hence the reason with all have TPMS.

You run what you want, and I'll run what I want, but neither one of us want what comes factory, and therein lies the fun of it.

 

True haha I just want the even balance....which is tough. Thanks for the input man, I appreciate it. I’ll be waiting to see yours on 37’s haha

 

Just a trend I notice. It actually comes up a lot. I meant ratio wise the difference isn't staggering but with smaller tires and little added weight yea there will be a difference.

It is tough, just have to have a clear vision of where you want to take your truck. For example I wanted a truck i could do long trips with but still hit sweet trails. Lol well it'll be a few years we shall see what happens

 

Any idea what RPMS would be like with 4.88’s and 33’s?

 

A lot lol try this it's a pretty good calculator. Input your transmission and tcase it gives you a lot of info

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

Thanks man, I’ll do some playing on it

 

@TYetti , when you re geared did you use paper gaskets from the factory or did you just use RTV? I ended up ordering a front diff from a member on here and a rear diff from ECGS with a locker, getting ready for the install!

 

Rtv always remember to follow the torquing procedure. I snug it up and let it ait for a bit before final torqing let's the rtv setup

 

Thanks man. I need to find the torque pattern still.

 

Got the front diff installed. Now just waiting on my rear to show up from ECGS. All went well, overall it was very simple.

 

Hey, all you guys that did 4.88s I got a question.

Nitro gear says that you need a different carrier for the front diff. I’m guessing the thickness of the ring gear is probably different from the 4.10 to the 4.88.

So did you guys have to change the carrier of can you find a “thicker” ring gear or what?

 

I'm on the fence too between 4.56 and 4.88 I'll need tires soon and would like 32". I also have the arb bumper and winch but I didn't notice any difference in acceleration once installed. I know from my past toyotas that larger and heavier tires really make the difference

 

I’m on 235s with stock gearing. I have an aluminum plate front bumper and steel plate rear and sliders. I have an aluminum cap, steel ifs skid and some weight in the bed. With all that I haven’t noticed too much power loss but mileage has suffered. I went from average of 19 mpg stock to currently around 17-18. Not huge.

I wanna go to 255s so I think gearing would be a good idea. The calculators say that 4.88 with 33s is just slightly lower than 4.10 with the stock 245 tire size. Sounds good to me.

 

I put 4.88s and they're a bit too short, 4.56 are a good choice for 33s.

 

I seemed like 4.56 wasn’t very much change. All else being the same isn’t the difference between 4.10 and 4.56 like only 200rpm or so? Of course all this is subjective.

 

If you do the math, 4.30 gears will keep you at the same gearing/tire size ratio with 32" tires as stock, so I wouldn't go lower than 4.56. 4.56 gearing will cover you if you decide to go to 33" tires later.

For a 33" tire, I'd stick with 4.56 gears. The math says 4.436 matches stock, which doesn't exist. With 4.56 gears, you'll be doing 80 mph @ 3000 rpm in 5th vs 82 mph with stock gears/tires. With 4.88 gears, you'll be doing 75 mph @ 3000 rpm in 5th.

If you daily drive your truck, you need to consider the speeds that you normally drive at and look at where you end up at in various gears. I'm on 35s and before I regeared, 5th was basically unusable if I wasn't on the highway. Half my commute is at 55 mph or less if I'm in traffic. At that speed, I was running at where I would usually downshift in 4th and running in 3rd was up where I would usually shift.

 

The way I was approaching it was this, 80mph is the fastest speed limit sign I've ever seen, this was in Utah, so for all intents and purposes my truck should not ever have to go faster than that. Honestly I encountered this speed limit this year on a road trip and most of the time I was going 70 or less in the slow lane due to lack of power! Higher altitude and hilly terrain wasn't helping.

I know I wanna go up to 33" tires, 255/85-16 to be more precise because that seems to be the limit before major mods are required.

The grimmjeeper gear calculator says that with stock gears and tires (4.10 and 245/75-16) I'd be doing 2988 rpm at 80mph.

With 4.88 gears and 255/85-16 I'd be doing 3213rpm at 80mph. If I slowed down to 75mph the rpms drop to 3013.

The 2tr is happy to buzz away all day at 3200 rpm, it actually runs very smoothly around there, and it'll be closer to peak power and torque.

This set up of 255s and 4.88s is a bit lower than stock so I agree that 4.56 paired with a 33" tire is closer to stock, but even in stock trim the truck is a bit anemic. I like the idea of being just slightly lower geared than it was in stock form, I think it will make the truck a little more fun to drive. The only thing I'm unsure of is how it will affect my mpgs, but there's no way to know other than just trying it. I'm willing to give up an mpg or two for a more driveable truck.

 

I'll say it again 4.88 is too much gear for anything less than 35" tires. I've been running them for 3 years!!!! Ya you'll get up and go but be prepared for constantly engaging the vvti and sucking fuel back. Also have plate bumpers, skids, sliders, RTT ,full tool box, fridge and then gear 4.88 is perfect for that