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Rear axle swap...

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by Workaholic, Jun 1, 2016.

  1. Jun 1, 2016 at 10:42 PM
    #1
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys I know this has probably been asked a million times but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for... So I'm running a 3.5camburg kit on the front and I'm stock in the rear. I just picked up my 16x2.5 3 tube bypasses with deaver springs and some 12" shackles... Now my only concern is an axle choice... My first thought would be to use a tundra axle but if anyone has any ideas as to which year axle would be best etc etc and how involved the swap would be or if I should just have the shop install the axle when they mount the deavers and shocks... Btw it's a 1997 Tacoma 4x4 auto v6
    Thanks
     
  2. Jun 6, 2016 at 12:59 PM
    #2
    Lockfreak

    Lockfreak Member

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    I'm in the processes of building... GM 6.0L Turbo 4L80e DTF LT Front DMR LT Rear
    From what I've been reading the 9" rear ends are the way to go. You can buy semi floating axles with the Toyota 6x5.5 lug patter to keep your wheels the same.
    You could buy a 31 spline junkyard rear end and then truss and tab it yourself or have someone else build you a fully fabed complete rear end.

    I'm going to be running a boosted LS motor the a 4L80 so I'll be using a full floater from 9inchfloater.com with 35 spline axles and LSD.
     
    lilgerber likes this.
  3. Jun 6, 2016 at 5:53 PM
    #3
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I'm really knew to this... Done a lot of reading but only gained a handful of useful information so I can buy that lug pattern on its own without the diff? And what are the advantages between the 8inch Toyota and the 9 inch besides more room?
     
  4. Jun 6, 2016 at 7:50 PM
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    Lockfreak

    Lockfreak Member

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    I'm in the processes of building... GM 6.0L Turbo 4L80e DTF LT Front DMR LT Rear
    Sorry I should have Ford 9" to begin with.
    It's been around for a long time. Lots of aftermarket support. Most guys I've seen that run hard change from the factory Toyota rear end to this one and then build it up depending on how big they want to go. I've seen guys set one for $500-$700 out of junkyard but new fully built full floaters cost $3k-$10k.
     
  5. Jun 7, 2016 at 12:00 AM
    #5
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Jesus I don't got a few grand to spend... That's why I was hoping I could drop in a t100 rear axle probably for the increase of track width and such
     
  6. Jun 7, 2016 at 5:41 AM
    #6
    Lockfreak

    Lockfreak Member

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    I'm in the processes of building... GM 6.0L Turbo 4L80e DTF LT Front DMR LT Rear
    If all you're concerned about is adding track width just put some Spidertrax wheel spacers on your stock axle and be done. Just make sure you don't over torque them and use red loctite.
     
  7. Jun 7, 2016 at 11:13 AM
    #7
    RedManRocket

    RedManRocket Well-Known Member

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    I'm in the same boat as you are, I'm not sure which axle I'm going with yet. I'm hoping that I can get one with a factory E-locker, did the t100 or the tundra have that?
     
  8. Jun 7, 2016 at 11:14 AM
    #8
    RedManRocket

    RedManRocket Well-Known Member

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    And do not do wheel spacers, worst idea ever, especially if you're going to be prerunning, your wheel bearing will go out so fast.
     
  9. Jun 7, 2016 at 1:15 PM
    #9
    TMFF

    TMFF Well-Known Member

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    Stuff and junk and things...
    Nope.

    Could get a ruffstuff or diamond axle tundra width with e locker center section.
     
  10. Jun 7, 2016 at 4:11 PM
    #10
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So would a t100 axle be the best bet since I can practically drop it concerning spline count on the diff, and assuming gearing is the same?
     
  11. Jun 7, 2016 at 4:16 PM
    #11
    RedManRocket

    RedManRocket Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if the shock and spring mounts are in the correct spot.
     
  12. Jun 7, 2016 at 4:17 PM
    #12
    RedManRocket

    RedManRocket Well-Known Member

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    I guess shocks mounts won't be a problem cause your going lt but the spring mounts might be
     
  13. Jun 7, 2016 at 4:17 PM
    #13
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All of that would be changed anyways since I'm running linger shocks through my bed and using much bigger leaf springs
     
  14. Jun 7, 2016 at 4:18 PM
    #14
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I believe it would just be making a new plate and then using u bolts and go..?
     
  15. Jun 7, 2016 at 4:26 PM
    #15
    RedManRocket

    RedManRocket Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, for sua that is
     
  16. Jun 7, 2016 at 5:55 PM
    #16
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sweet but any information if I can literally just drop in the t100 axle if I'm redoing shock and spring mounts
     
  17. Jun 7, 2016 at 6:02 PM
    #17
    chainslap

    chainslap Well-Known Member

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    Driveshaft bolts up, check if the gear ratio is the same as your front, re weld spring perches at correct with and drive angle, weld new shock mounts. Should be able to attach your extended brakeline straight up.

    I have a T100 axle I am putting in my 95 Tacoma. The T100 axle has two parking brake lines where as the Tacoma has one IIRC? Don't know if that was across all models but I wasn't planning on keeping it anyways.
     
  18. Jun 7, 2016 at 6:05 PM
    #18
    WOODEX M.E.

    WOODEX M.E. Well-Known Member

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    Wheel spacers wont do any more damage than a set of wheels with a different offset from stock. Same leverage if they move the wheel out the same amount.
     
  19. Jun 7, 2016 at 6:11 PM
    #19
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Exactly what I was looking for thank you
     
  20. Jun 7, 2016 at 6:11 PM
    #20
    Workaholic

    Workaholic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Last question is there any particular year for the t100 Thatd be best?
     

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