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Rear brake problem

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Tombstone4x4, Dec 30, 2017.

  1. Dec 30, 2017 at 4:27 PM
    #1
    Tombstone4x4

    Tombstone4x4 [OP] Active Member

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    I have an 03 Tacoma and here recently it’s been having a problem that I noticed that when I come to a complete stop with my brakes and then I start to go my passenger rear tire won’t move till it gets pulled into motion and then it’s all good till I do it again
     
  2. Dec 30, 2017 at 5:07 PM
    #2
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    The LSPV (Load Sensing Proportional Valve) is often the cause of rear brake issues. It's a valve attached to the driver's side of the frame, right over the rear diffirential, connected to it with a rod.
    Check if you don't see something unusual, such as a leak, pinched line, loose adjustment, rust or anything abnormal
     
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  3. Dec 30, 2017 at 5:12 PM
    #3
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    Mine does the same after it sits a while. It's def. my LSPV. I'll get around to putting a manual valve soon.
     
  4. Dec 30, 2017 at 5:54 PM
    #4
    Tombstone4x4

    Tombstone4x4 [OP] Active Member

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    But will the LSPV only affect one rear wheel because only the passenger rear does it
     
  5. Dec 30, 2017 at 9:12 PM
    #5
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    Mine stops of I load it with weight. I hate the rear brakes on this truck.
    Oh well, the front brakes sucked on my last truck.
     
  6. Dec 30, 2017 at 9:47 PM
    #6
    Tombstone4x4

    Tombstone4x4 [OP] Active Member

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    I didn’t have a problem with it till recently I been pulling a four wheeler on a trailer and I thought it was just the trailer being in a pothole but now it’s just rough
     
  7. Dec 30, 2017 at 10:01 PM
    #7
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    does the pass, rear lock at real low speed also? Mine's at that point now but only the first time of use. Won't do it if going fast, just slow.

    You can adjust the load rod but all you're really doing there is making the rears not work at all anymore.

    Or as other poster said, flush rear lines, clean, adjust, inspect...there's quite a bit to the rears on here. Also brush off the exposed parts of the parking brake and spray lube on it. It won't stay on long though.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2017
  8. Dec 30, 2017 at 10:15 PM
    #8
    Tombstone4x4

    Tombstone4x4 [OP] Active Member

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    No it just does it like after I come to a stop at like red lights and stuff like that
    It won’t do it pulling out of the park gear and it won’t do it in reverse and once it starts rolling it’s good it’s not a real big deal roght now but I would like to get it fixed soon as I find out the problem
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2017
  9. Dec 31, 2017 at 7:48 AM
    #9
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    The fact that it does it on a wheel only makes me think there might be something else to your problem, because a bad LSPV would normally affect both wheels....
    I would do a brake system flush first and see if it solves the problem. Might be some dirty brake fluid (and inspect brake lines going to this wheel, while you're there)
    If not, I would open the drum on the affected wheel and see if there isn't something disadjusted or broken in there, or if your wheel cylinder has gone bad
     
  10. Dec 31, 2017 at 8:09 AM
    #10
    Keep on Truckin'

    Keep on Truckin' Well-Known Member

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    Could be a Weak Return spring on the brake shoes inside the drum or dirt/brake dust buildup-Bad brake wheel cylinder , since it seems to only affect the pass side at this time.
     
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  11. Dec 31, 2017 at 12:05 PM
    #11
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    Certainly could be that.
    OP, I've torn mine down before and bled afterward. (yes, I should/could have bled much, much more. Like a bottles worth, I didn't know what I was looking for) Nothing was obviously wrong but i didn't change nor test spring pressures.

    Of course you should take a look at yours as a fluid leak leads to a complete loss of brakes both f/r (though I found out the hard way it does that on my Sienna also) I really think there is a internal prob. in my valve but my prob. locks up easier on one side. Yours does not so it's not identical.
    HOWEVER, you mention putting on a trailer and it started acting up so I think it's POSSIBLE the lever moving from it's long held position caused something (brake goop, dirt) to loosen and get stuck inside to the driver's wheel. (like plaque in an artery) Just an hypothesis...........

    As a side note, on the Sienna, due to age (maybe a small leak too) the shoe separated from the lining, causing the rear cyl. to over extend and blow apart sooooo, of your shoes are original, even if still showing lots of wear left......maybe a good time to change them.

    I could tell mine have never worked much on the rear. 150K miles and they looked new. Had many trucks before and never have seen that little of wear.

    It's why i want a manual valve, I'd like to dial in some back brake when empty, which is most of the time. Plus it's not good on a surprise turn to set the vehicle on it's nose before turning. That's just as dangerous as too much rear brake.
     
  12. Jan 1, 2018 at 7:46 AM
    #12
    Snowy

    Snowy Is neither here nor there

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    Return springs could be weak..or if you have ever had a leaky axle seal and gotten gear oil on the shoes, they will stick to the drum some when applied and released
     
  13. Jan 1, 2018 at 8:46 AM
    #13
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    IMHO, there is no magic bullet answer here. You are going to have to look at everything and I would start with a side to side rear shoe adjustment. if that isnt it then look to see if there is anything that could cause one side working "better" than the other... are the shoes installed correctly and of equal thickness. Do both cups on the wheel cylinder actuate and/or do they leak?
     
  14. Jan 1, 2018 at 9:01 AM
    #14
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    If its been a long time since the rear shoes have been replaced, just do that (with OEM shoes).
    Any weak springs will be noticed and replaced as well.

    Will cost you $$, but brakes are a pretty critical component, don't you think ?

    A few years ago, my rear brakes were sticky until I just replaced the shoes.
     
  15. Jan 4, 2018 at 10:26 PM
    #15
    Tombstone4x4

    Tombstone4x4 [OP] Active Member

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    I replaced my wheel cylinder then I drove it and it worked for a day and then it started back but worse if I try to come to a complete stop and ease on my brakes and almost stopped it will jerk to a complete stop my brake shoes are pretty new looking
     
  16. Jan 5, 2018 at 5:05 AM
    #16
    Russianman92

    Russianman92 Well-Known Member

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    Dont mean to ask a dumb question, but did you adjust them?

    Normally they are self adjusting, but, when you do an install you normally gotta manually adjust them in until they touch the drum and then back off just a hair.

    Also, could be a hydraulic line not letting fluid back in when you let off the brakes. Did you try and squeeze the cylinder with a c clamp to see if it easily pushes the fluid back into the reservoir? Maybe the line is pinched somewhere or bent and when you press the brakes it is enough pressure to engage but when you let go, the return springs may not have enough strength to push the fluid back.

    Idk just thinking out loud.
     
  17. Jan 5, 2018 at 9:42 AM
    #17
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    So now our problems are identical.......start looking at a weak spring or for a blockage in a line or some sort of problem at that valve.
    My bet is the valve.
     
  18. Jan 5, 2018 at 9:47 AM
    #18
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    03 ? don't those have the old school parking brake bell cranks that get corroded and seize/jam up ?

    you checked and have clean, free working, park brake arms and pivots ?
     

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