Rear Diff Lock Anytime Mod 3rd Gen DEVELOPMENT

I have a better idea wire it as you show BUT do it with the OEM switch instead of another switch yea it will require some wiring & relay bfd.

 

Ok guys I’m confused again with the switch wiring. Where is the diode wired? instead can’t the white coming out of the coil just be grounded to the frame? Also is a relay necessary if I’m using a 5amp fuse tap and a 20amp switch?

 

20 amp switch should be able to handle it theoretically, if it is good for 20amp DC (not AC). The diode we are discussing is actually critical to protect the switch or relay (if used).

I personally am not a fan of fuse taps, and 5amp is cutting it a bit on the closer side, but that is just my personal opinion. It should be ok, I think.

Just to reiterate a bit before discussing the diode:
You are going to take positive voltage, switch it, and reduce it with a resistor or PWM (optional but I recommend). And then apply that reduced voltage to SL+ (red or black wire depending on where you cut in). And you are going to ground SL- (white).

You need to hook the diode between the SL+ wire (anywhere between the diff and the switch is OK) and a good ground (or the SL- side of the coil which is grounded). The 'best' place to do it is to just wire it between SL+ and SL-.

Think of it this way. The coil is like a turbine that has spun up (when it is turned on). When you turn off the switch, the flywheel keeps wanting to spin, but doesnt have a source of water (electrons). This produces a huge (negative) voltage spike across the switch and tries to burn the switch contacts as it forces electrons to keep traveling across the switch. The diode allows a different source of electrons to flow into the coil from ground while the coil spools down, and prevents giant negative voltage spike and burned switches.

Diode direction is CRITICAL. You have to put stripe on the diode to the SL+ (positive side of the circuit).

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode

 

Definitely making more sense. Thanks for all your help!

 

Getting closer hopefully I will test the locker tomorrow.

 

What's with the gargantuan bump stops?

 

timbren bump stop. its big but very soft rubber. great for extra weight without harsh bottoming

 

Damping hippo sex

 

I havent looked at pics hard enough to tell.
Make sure to disconnect lock feedback switch on diff. Otherwise it will eventually throw a code when using the override.

 

I disconnected the blue wire on feed back, can I leave the black ground and then later use blue for a locked light(coming out of diff)? Also I tested the wiring with truck off and I’m getting 12.6 from battery and 12.6 on the other side of parallel resistor’s, is this because there is no load?

 

Yes to both
With a resistor in series with a load, when no load, no current, so no voltage drop. As current flows then there will be voltage drop.

 

Anytime locker cut and splice is successful! Thanks to everyone on this thread for your input especially BigWhite TRD! Now I will test it in the rocks and report back at some point. Resistors were only warm to the touch after 10 minutes. Engaged and disengaged without issue.

 

Forgive my cursory knowledge and understanding of this, though I’ve tried to read and understand. Still working on absorbing it all.

For someone who has 2wd low, we have access to the diff lock in 2 or 4 low, correct?

So, the missing piece would then be access to the diff lock in 2 or 4 high, correct?

If I am not wrong on some of the above, is there a known use case or situation where the diff lock is desired and high is substantially preferable to low? I assume the diff locker would not be terribly valuable at speeds beyond 30 mph?

 

Well how did the field testing go?

If this works we as members of TW would love to have a final parts list & where you purchased the items, to hell with your costs, with a final wiring diagram all on 1 (one) FINAL post please.

 

Dont expect me (the OP) to ever post a new DIY thread for this mod, or put revised DIY data in the first post. I have posted a schematic (and parts lists) that has been used numerous times to make the locker manually controlled in various places in this thread and in other threads (Factory locker install on 16 sport | Tacoma World, etc). A parts list for this mod is literally a resistor, a diode, wire, switch/relay. (and plenty of people will tell you to skip the resistor.)

Why wont I post it more explicitly in the first post with a DIY step-by-step guide? Because this mod is not for the masses (in my opinion). Therefore I want somebody to have to dig in a bit to really understand what they are doing before they attempt this. I will still support people to help them understand, but they need to do some thinking on their own, not just blindly follow on this one. (The last thing I want to hear is somebody say they blindly followed one of my posts on TW without understanding it and somebody was killed or injured.)

There are 2 major (unresolved) safety issues to remember with this mod, not including the risks of bad wiring, truck falling off jacks, etc.
1.There are NO speed limits implemented on this mod. You (or your spouse or your child) can activate this mod at 75 mph on the interstate going around a bend. Before I would do this on my own truck, I would personally include additional safety measures, such as requiring 4hi, and using a momentary switch at a minimum so that activation required at least 2 steps... So doing the mod just isnt worth it at all for me. Show me a current vehicle with a diff locker that doesnt have speed limits and other protections, etc...
2.There is NO disable on ABS with this mod. Is it required? Not sure... Note, Toyota only disables ABS with rear locker, not even 4Lo, Atrac, MTS disable ABS... ONLY rear locker disables ABS...

Yes, these risks also exist with the average airlocker installation too.

***But, but, but, you did the 2lo mod DIY (Lock, Stock, and 2Wheel Low (3rd Gen DIY Mod) | Tacoma World)... Yes, and it retains all the significant ECU protections.

But as always, if you have questions just ask and I will try to answer them to the best of my knowledge.

 

Lawyers are the pond scum turning everyone into pussys

Cell phones kill more people every day than this thing ever will.

 

Preach!

 

Preach?

That's a fact not someone's opinion.

 

Whether or not it is safe or will kill someone is not the issue. The issue is liability and the litigious nature of the general public. Waivers are great, but I personally don't want to see how well they hold up in court. If someone decides to put a PnP kit together and some idiot manages to kill themselves while using it, there is a significant (less than zero) chance they will be sued. Even they win and don't have to pay damages, the cost of lawyers alone can break someone.

I'm all for giving people what Toyota refuses to, but I'm not going to jeopardize myself, my family, home, or lifestyle to do it for others.

 

May have been "asked and answered" already and maybe a dumb question but 2WD OR trucks have the rear diff lock......is there a way to sub that system into a 4WD truck? Since the 2WD has no transfer case, I would think there's a fairly straightforward system in place for locking the rear diff in 2WD OR trucks.