Rear, Front and Transfer case oil change

Ok Just checking. I think I can handle it. Actually, I wish I could do it all. I hate the fact I have to rely on the dealer for somethings. (unless its major stuff thats under warrenty)

 

If you like your dealer there is no shame in patronizing them.

 

I guess I like the dealer. However, they want 300 to change front rear and transfer case oil... I am thinking its not all that bad to do. It actually looks pretty straight forward.
I asked how much to do change the transmission fliud. They want 180 for that. I was told its a complete flush, it uses about 14 qts. That I willl probably go for.

 

Well considering that you cant change the trans fluid without the dealer, i would take to them. Haha there is no trans fluid check or a fill for it. One of the few things I hate about my truck.

 

Yeah, that's an insane price to get your diffs and transfer changed. Do it yourself and you'll probably spend less than $50, depending on what kind of oil you use. And it's really not hard.

 

Oh ya, after looking athe dyi artical id be a fool not to. I will have them do the tranny though, it seems worth it to me.

 

Not a bad job at all I would 30K in the past seemed like very few miles on the gear oil (ran my ranger to 110K and it never cared) but with these trucks I think the front and the t-case should definitely be changed often 15K doesn't seem outlandish.

Rear diff and t case use a 24 mm socket. Front diff uses a hex key can't think of it off the top of my head.

 

Getting ready to pick up my new truck. Dealer said that it came with a 2 year 25k mile scheduled maintenance warranty. Would the rear, front and transfer case oil change be included in this ??

 

I changed mine as soon as I hit 1000.00 miles on my 11' 4x4. Used Synthetic oil 75-90 on everything except the rear diff. On the rear diff I used 75-140 synthetic. All Mobil 1. Next change will be at 50k with level checks in between.

 

My guess is they did 25k and not 30k to squeeze out of having to do your diffs and t-case and swap the plugs.

 

hmm.. not less then 50 bucks.. I wish. I picked up 6qts of royal purple at 17.99 a qt.. the guy scaned it at 18.99 a qt and when the trans action was complete I said hey the price on the shel says 17.99 so I got the shelf price plus 5 bucks because of the scanner law.. but still that is some pricy fluid.

 

RP is expensive stuff. I used Red Line which was still expensive but cheaper I think. Other oil could be had to do the transfer case and diffs much cheaper and would still probably be fine.

 

This must be said (again)... Changing the front and rear diffferential oil at 15,000 or 30,000 (for most people) is a complete waste of money!

The "Scheduled Maintenance Log" that comes with every new vehicle clearly states;

(2006 edition) 30,000 miles or 36 months:

Additional maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions (2)


Driving while towing: (5)

• Replace front differential oil (all 4WD except Highlander)
• Replace rear differential oil, including limited-slip (all models except 2WD Highlander)
• Replace transfer case oil (4WD models)

(2) Perform these service items ONLY if you drive PRIMARILY under the conditions indicated.

(5) These maintenance items apply only to vehicles designed for towing. Refer to your Owner's Manual to determine if your vehicle may be used for towing.

Special Operating Conditions: In addition to standard maintenance items, the maintenance log indicates services that should be performed on vehicles that are driven under especially demanding conditions. These "special operating conditions" and their required maintenance items are clearly indicated in each chart. Note: You should perform these additional maintenance services IF you drive PRIMARILY (in italics) under any of the special operating conditins indicated. If you drive only OCCASSIONALLY (again, in italics) under these conditions, it is not necessary to perform the additonal services.

Since most people do NOT PRIMARILY use their vehicle for towing, you don't need to change the diffy oil and transfer case oil at 15,000 or 30,000 miles.

Save your money people!!!

 

Why not synthetic in the rear diff? I only ask because I had the dealership change the oil in my front and rear diffs and transfer case and it appears, judging by my work order, they used synthetic 75w90 in all three . . . at least that is what they charged me for.

 

changed my 09 which was used for towing and occasional off roading at 15,000 miles.....

rear diff- filthy
t case- clean (but 1 qt of fluid so who cares)
front diff- filthy

NOT a waste of money......

 

Problem is... the oil gets the color of "filthy" (what ever that is) after a few thousand miles whether you beat the hell out of the truck or drive all highway miles. The color changes with operating temp, not just metal shavings and wear. The color alone doesn't mean anything. What matters is the amount particulate in the oils... whether the oils still provide adequate lubrication, etc... which is why if you don't tow or go off road (like described in the maintainance guide) then it IS a waste of money.

You said that you DO off road and you DO tow so feel free to change it often if you like.

We're allowed to disagree and keep thing cool, right.

 

For some, synthetic works okay. For many, many others, Toyota's mechanical LSD doesn't always like the synthetic. The recommendation has been to stick with Dino oil in the rear to play it safe (ie not having to take the synthetic oil out and replace it a second time with non-synthetic). If you're not having any chattering with your LSD, then you're one of the lucky ones. Just beware that if you have the problem the dealership will have to fix it for free since they didn't put in what was called for in the manual.

 

I do agree with you that 15K is excessive. Toyota kind of created this problem though. Unless I'm mistaken (which maybe I missed it last time I looked for it), the maintenance schedule for the "normal" conditions never says to change it ever. It says to check it every 30K, but never does it ever say to change it. So the only guide is to follow the "towing" conditions to be safe.

 

Best tip, and was said earlier. REMOVE FILL PLUG FIRST! If you cant get that out, you dont want to remove the drain plug!

Another tip for stuck plugs, give them a crack with a hammer. Just a clean, flat hit on the face of the plug and they normally come loose without a wrench at all.

 

Sounds like it warrants a call to the stealership. Thanks for the information!