Rear Leaf Install...

Well....guess I can stop now.

OEM leafs are 1-3/4" and the All Pro's are 2", and there is exactly 1/4" of thread on the OEM U-bolts....

So if I go any further than getting the truck lifted, I'm pretty sure I would have wasted my time.

Where did you all get your U-Bolts from? I see 2 crown J said Wheeler's. Any other recommendations?

OK...in all honesty, do I really need longer break lines?

I have OEM leafs with 2.5" shackles, and I have quite a bit of slack in the break lines. Are brake lines a absolutely necessary?

 

Re-read post #18

Check with 4WD.
Doug has posted in this thread and is familiar with 1st gen.

 

4WD,

Do I actually need new brake lines if I have a quite bit of slack on mine now with 2.5" shackles. I'm thinking the previous owner might have changed them before. Seems like I have 2-3" extra with the current 2.5" set up. Can't really see them pulling too tight at an extra 1/2".


jflan,

What shop do you go to to have new bolts made? Any regular machine shop?


2 crown j,

We you able to find a set of longer u bolts? Are you going from OEM to 3' All-Pros?


Thanks for all your help guys. I do have 2 more days off, so I might be able to pull this off this weekend yet.

 

yoTaco98,

Go to a spring shop for U-bolts, give them the dimensions you want and they will bend them, probably while you wait.

 

If you already have lift w/shackles & you have significant slack in brake line adding another half inch is fine, you should be good to go

 

This ^^^

Just look up Auto, Truck Springs in the Yellow Pages.
There are spring shops throughout the US and some even go back to horse and buggy days. It's old tech that will always be around.

Most of them carry straight, threaded stock that can be round bent or square bent on their machine, to your specs.

 

yes I am going from stock to allpro standard 3" lift
Yes 4 wheel parts had longer square u bolts.

I finnished the driver side today. I installed the extended brake lines. PITA
Then got the leaf spring and shock installed.

 

Nice ! get some pics up when you can.....

Yep, I've dropped alot of axles & R&R'd a few springs, but the part of any install I fear the most, is having to fuck with those B.S. brakelines (especially 2nd gens.) they go one of two ways, either they're a piece of cake or a total pain in the ass... (usually a pain in the ass)

 

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/deaver.html

Just in case someone else wants to see a good write up on this. I personally used this as my reference when I installed my leafs.

 

That was a great write up.

I did the install last week, and it was indeed pretty easy. His write up says 65 ft. lbs of torque, but the FSM said U-bolts should be torqued to 90 ft. lbs.

Which is correct? I'm currently torqued at 90.


I have the BPV extension ordered, didn't know I needed that. And although the current brake line is working, I went ahead and ordered longer brake line.

The only other issue I have is the newly developed vibration between 15 and 30 mph. They weren't there before. I've done some reading and I guess it's caused by the drive shaft angle.

Am I going to have to use shims? Do I just use the Toytec 2.5 degree ones?


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

90 ft/lbs is good.

Do you have a 2 piece rear drive line with a carrier bearing?

 

Your vibe is from the increased driveline angle at the rear diff/yoke/driveshaft U joint connection, a carrier (center bearing) drop usually resolves this 99% of the time, you have a 2-piece shaft w/dbl cardan joint, JLEE (member here) Has a real nice beefy BPV relocation bracket for sale here, very good quality, very solid..

Oh yeah, your torque of 90-100 ft lbs is more realistic than the 65 ft lbs mentioned although every Tacoma I've worked on 1st or 2nd gens (some even brand new) have had loose U bolt nuts, below even 65ft. lbs

 

I just did the Allpro Expos on my 2WD. I noticed the forward increased driveline angle, I only get a little bit of vibration/jerking right when I take off from a stop. I'm wondering if it is worth moving carrier or just deal with it. Also stupid question: Do shims have anything do it with this?

 

I'm assuming you have 2wd ex. or access cab, this too would have 2 piece shaft, its really no big deal to drop the carrier an inch or so with a couple well fitting spacers (there are after market drop brackets available too) & eliminate the vibe altogether, your question about shims is not stupid at all bro', with 1 piece shafts shimming the axle to correct drive angle is not only the best way to do this, but pretty much the only way & a bit more exacting for alignment. A 1-piece driveshaft is alot more sensitive to adjustments because it doesn't have the "buffer" & added idiosynchrosis of a dbl jointed (dbl cardan) 2 piece shaft to "soak up" (for lack of better term) the watering down of a more direct connection that a 1 piece shaft provides, hopes that explains a little....

 

I ordered the Revtek 3/8" CB spacer from Wheelers. $11, can't really hurt to try it first.

Hopefully, I'll get around to installing them this weekend.