Rear passenger wheel locked

Whatever you do, do not take it to this place

 

Bring around da LOANER!

 

The only way to not have a Tacoma wheel dragger is park inside or upgrade to disc brakes

 

Trucks down off the mountain. Rolled away from the dealership in Bellingham. Woke up this morning in Seattle. Tried to drive to work, wheels dragged out the driveway. Truck’s at the Seattle dealership because it’s the closest.

Somethings wrong. Hopefully they can fix it.

I shared the video with the techs. We’ll see.

 

Welp, I played with fire and got burned. It was nice out so I washed my truck in one of the manual power wash stations. It was only 4 blocks from my house. Normally I go and drive for 5-10 miles to dry the truck off. I didn't want to get a bunch of salt on it again though, so I just parked it in my detached garage. Right rear was froze this AM. I ran a shop heater on it for about an hour (drum was warm to the touch) and it still wouldn't pop. Had to pull the wheel and lightly rap the drum with a brass mallet. That finally popped it loose.

Next time I am going to do my normal 5-10 mile drive and drag the e-brake a bit to get it hot.

 

Having drum brakes 'stick' can be caused by 3 things, or a combination of them. Sticking emergency brake cable (sometimes the factory forgets to lube them), bad or broken brake hardware, or high organic content brake shoes.

#1 is easy. Disconnect the emergency brake cable from both ends, peel back the rubber boot on the forward end and pull the cable towards you while spraying it with a good moly based lube. Belray makes a great spray moly lube, and there are others. Let the cable relax and pull in, then repeat the process until lube drips from the opposite end of the cable.

#2 is also easy. Replace broken hardware. Buy 2 wheel kits and replace all of the hardware. Lube contact points with brake lube, don't forget to lube the adjuster threads.

#3 is quite common. Since car companies have gone 'green' there is a high percent of organic compounds in your brake shoes. Organics hold moisture and freeze. It takes a surprisingly tiny film of ice to bond the shoe to the brake drum. My 90 F150 did it, my 92 Exploder did it and my 06 Sierra did it. I eliminated the problem by buying a set of heavy duty name brand (Wagner in my instance) brake shoes. The heavy duty units won't hold moisture because of the low organic content and high metal content. Solved the problem instantly and for good.

The best way I found to free the frozen drum is to put it in low range and 'rock' the truck, forward and back. The shoe or shoes will let go with a pop.

All of these lies that the dealer comes up with are just more reasons why I only go to the dealer for a recall or warranty work.

 

New to the thread, but my 2017 OR just started doing the same thing.

Went on a fall camping trip last weekend, ran a 4WD trail into the site with multiple water crossings. Temps got down to below 30F that night and once we were packed up in the morning, my drivers side rear wheel wouldn't turn. 4WD High would pull the wheel on dry pavement for 18". I put the truck in reverse and it popped loose (loud pop). Thought it may have been frozen brake pads due to the water crossings.

We've had dry roads for a week and I parked the truck on Saturday (70F and sunny). A winter storm hit CO on Sunday and snow started falling around 10:00am. I didn't move the truck all day. 6" of snow and 19F right now and the same drivers side rear wheel won't move. It rolls in 'fits' in reverse, but nothing at all forward. Won't pop loose in 4WD High or 4LO. Drug it around on the icy/snowy road doing slo-mo donuts in the streets due to the stuck rear.

Why would it roll a little in reverse but not at all in forward? Is it possibly a transmission issue? Any thoughts?

 

You have water in the parking brake cable or the shoes are still wet. I move a little in reverse because of the movement of the brake shoes on the backing plate.

 

Water in the brake assembly. I was able to duplicate the issue for my dealer. They disassembled it, dried it out and it was good till I got wet again.

4 wheel low in reverse seem to unlock it.

I don't use the parking brake in the winter to avoid this.

 

You probably shouldn't use the 4 low technique to free them. You can damage the brake assembly. Safest way is to use a propane touch or heat gun between the spokes and warm the drum or use a large punch and hammer and tap the face of the drum can sometimes free it.

 

I think the manual says no P brake in winter no?

 

Not that I can find.

 

Im surprised this hasn't happened to me yet.
Might have to add small torch to supplies for deep woods trips.

 

Ill take a peek later

 

Clearly you've never been to Washington state in the winter!

If a rear brake locks up on me, this will be my plan. I know not everyone has an OR model, but for those that do this seems like a pretty foolproof way to unlock a stubborn drum. Certainly not ideal, but likely effective every time.

 

Just 2 winters at Lewis, often driving busses over Snoqualmie pass and up/down Tiger mountain on 18. The other three winters only my mail went there.

The amount of salt thrown by WSDOT, in the parts I was, isn’t much in comparison with the rest of the less green states.

 

Yes that method has worked for me numerous times.

 

Ha, the west side of WA is different. The other 90% of the state gets shit on with snow. And salt.

 

The rear brake shoes are self energizing when rolling forward. This gives you a faster responding rear brake system when stopping by pulling the shoes into the drum when the brakes are applied (or frozen to the drum).

 

Oh boy, another issue to look out for during winter. I swear ever since i got my taco and signed up for TW, the forum always makes me nervous.

I will keep this in mind and i hope that this will work if my tires locks due to cold weather, since i leave my taco on a private parking lot to ride a shuttle to work(saves me gas so why not lol).