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Rear supension Upgrades?

Discussion in 'Street Trucks' started by ryoung40911, May 13, 2021.

  1. May 13, 2021 at 6:51 PM
    #1
    ryoung40911

    ryoung40911 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Rich
    NH, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Silver Tacoma 2wd Base Model
    DJM 3/4 lowering kit, 18" ford interceptor wheels, Nitto nt555 g2 tires, X runner sway bar, and many more on the way
    I have a 5 lug base model that i want to lower 4" in the back but make the suspension stiffer too. Would a sway bar help? or maybe new leafs.
     
    BananaMan and pinktaco808 like this.
  2. May 13, 2021 at 6:53 PM
    #2
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    Key
    Florida
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    2010 TRD Off-Road 6Spd 4x4 209BSM
    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.
    I was reading someone got some composite leafs from Tundra Racing, might be worth researching but street trucks aren't my expertise.
     
    pinktaco808 likes this.
  3. May 14, 2021 at 6:36 AM
    #3
    NMTOY

    NMTOY Well-Known Member

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    1998 Dark green 2wd extra cab Tacoma V6, auto
    Clear corner and marker lights, 1997 Cobra wheels, KYB shocks, Powerstop rotors and pads
    Rear sway bar will definitely help the handling.
     
    JT_670 and geoff w like this.
  4. May 16, 2021 at 6:02 AM
    #4
    BananaMan

    BananaMan Well-Known Member

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    Bumfrick nowhere Maine
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    06 2.7 RC 2wd manual "squattytruck"
    My recommendation would be 3 inch blocks with the 4x4 leaf spring. The leaf spring is thicker than the 2wd and consequently gives you some drop. That's what I'm running currently. Also worth noting that you will need a C-notch going that low. I'm autocrossing the truck and it's doing great with that setup.
     
  5. May 16, 2021 at 8:59 PM
    #5
    ryoung40911

    ryoung40911 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    NH, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Silver Tacoma 2wd Base Model
    DJM 3/4 lowering kit, 18" ford interceptor wheels, Nitto nt555 g2 tires, X runner sway bar, and many more on the way
  6. May 16, 2021 at 9:00 PM
    #6
    ryoung40911

    ryoung40911 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2021
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    Messages:
    67
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    NH, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Silver Tacoma 2wd Base Model
    DJM 3/4 lowering kit, 18" ford interceptor wheels, Nitto nt555 g2 tires, X runner sway bar, and many more on the way
    That would have me about 4"-5" lower probably?
     
  7. May 17, 2021 at 6:42 AM
    #7
    BananaMan

    BananaMan Well-Known Member

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    06 2.7 RC 2wd manual "squattytruck"
    It will lower your truck about 4 inches.
     
  8. May 17, 2021 at 10:15 AM
    #8
    ryoung40911

    ryoung40911 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2021
    Member:
    #355788
    Messages:
    67
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    NH, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Silver Tacoma 2wd Base Model
    DJM 3/4 lowering kit, 18" ford interceptor wheels, Nitto nt555 g2 tires, X runner sway bar, and many more on the way
    That's good because I'm currently sitting about an inch or so higher in the back. 6 lug leafs would be great for off-road...
     
    pinktaco808 likes this.
  9. Jul 22, 2021 at 4:20 PM
    #9
    geoff w

    geoff w Well-Known Member

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    malibu
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    '14 Tacoma 4x2 SR5
    I bought the SOS rear sway bar kit for my 2014 4x2. The drop links were way too long and hit the tailpipe. I ended putting on OEM rear drop links from the X-Runner and everything lined up just fine. I also used to OEM drop link mounting brackets and they lined up with the holes already in the frame. Drilling out a rivet on each side to get access to one of the holes was a real pain and took a long time; it was the worst part of the project
     
    JT_670 likes this.

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