Recovery Hooks w/ Stock Bumpers

Does anybody have recovery hooks mounted on their truck with stock bumpers in place? I dont want those monstrous things on the front and back of my truck.

Where did you mount them?

 

Check out bullet proof fabrications tow recovery hook, that is how I mounted mine with stock bumper...

 

takes a little craftsmanship, but works

 

Actually that's not a bad idea! Did you solder the second hole of the hook?
I might be doing this!

 

I welded the hook to the bracket and welded the second hole closed. I have used the hook a number of times and it worked just fine. This is not a hard core recovery solution but it WORKS and will only set you back 10 bucks.

 

Yup it does look good! I would only reinforce the bracket with one or two tabs... Great idea Sir!

 

Forgive my ignorance but where did Said hook come from?

 

I widened the hole on the stock recovery point to accept a 3/4 shackle:

 

That looks woefully inadequate for any significant recovery attempt.

I have been trying to come up with a sound way to connect a bridle to the OEM recovery points to split the load between the two frame rails. I have the TRD recovery hook on the passenger side and a factory tie down loop welded on the driver side. I can hook a tree saver on the hook and use a shackle to connect it to the tie down loop, but everything I have read says the loop isn't a good point.

My other alternative is to place each loop of the strap around the frame stubs, or, probably more sturdy, over the front cross member then around the stubs from the back. I'm pretty confident in the second method except the frame has some sharp edges that will probably cut the strap pretty quick. It's also a little difficult to thread the strap over and I would be concerned about the radiator, condenser, and connections being damaged in the event of a failure.

Having removed and inspected the stubs they seem very light, but made of the same gauge as the actual front cross member that the recovery hook is bolted to. That connection is only a couple of bolts with the nuts tack welded inside the cross member.

I'm considering having a couple shackle hangers made that will slide into the frame cross member in place of the stubs. I could remove the tack welded nuts and have them slide in quite far, much like a hitch receiver shackle hanger.

I eventually may get a winch, so instead of all this theoretical stuff I'm looking at getting the US Offroad winch mount since it includes a couple shackle hangers and money that would have been wasted on temporary recovery points will be spent on what will be needed for the eventual winch anyways.

 

I agree the factory recovery point is weak but if you look at the OR models they have a proper hook fastened in the same location.. not sure what the rating is though, but I assume it is enough to tow the vehicle, probably not enough to pull it out of mud however..

 

Agreed, I think the weak points here is the material the hook/ loop is fastened to with the welded in nuts

 

http://mobtownoffroad.com/product/front-recovery-bar/

@Mobtown Offroad makes this recovery bar that gives you strong front recovery points without changing bumpers

 

Sound would be a key word. If you are connecting a strap to the two points and to the other vehicle you will place an immense stress load trying to crush your frame inward. Very bad idea. Pull from one sufficient point, there is no need for two.

For the rear I use something like this in my receiver:

 

Mine was just a temp fix so I could attach a strap , the stock point has sharp edges, I bought a rear hitch mounted recovery point, this way I can carry one shackle and it can be applied front and rear... I have looked alot and can't find a rating for the front point, one wonders what they mean when Toyota describes it as a recovery point/hook...

 

I've yet to see a thread where the recovery point folded over an failed, I've seen this on the Wrangler forums, but then I think the average Wrangler owner gets in deeper than the average Tacoma owner.

 

My concern with rounding out the hole to fit a shackle is that the shackle will tear through what is left, much like the towing safety chain connections are prone to tear through. If the bolts are the same grade that the OR recovery hook uses I wouldn't be concerned about them or the cross member failing.

There is enough information on bridles, geometry, and physics available that clearly shows a proper bridle is far superior to a single recovery point. If the angle at the apex is <30* your bridle is long enough. Too short a bridle will result in a greater angle and greatly increased compressive force between the recovery points.

 

I ground out the part towards the bend in the metal, so I didn't make it weaker than it was.. anyhow... I painted it after because it was raw metal... red 'cause
because it looks cool
To remind me that it's dangerous
So I don't leave my gear behind
because it looks cool
30$ 10 mins w dremel, a rattlecan, shackle recovery point front and rear..

$38 Smittybilt 29312B Receiver Hitch D-Ring with 3/4" Shackle for 2" Receivers , Black

https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-2...465624537&sr=8-1&keywords=Smittybilt+recovery

 

got the same hook from harborfreight - just open a new location nearby

 

I love Sears tool dept, but man that store is dangerous.

 

Pulling/towing heavy loads from the front is not a good idea. There is a subframe there that is not as solid as it could be. A hard pull can bend it out. Good for light loads but you're risking too much pulling heavy loads. I've had no problems pulling hard using this hook that attaches to the OEM hitch mount:

$41 CURT 45500 Forged Tow Hook Trailer Hitch Ball Mount, Fits 2" Receiver

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-45500...UTF8&qid=1465623263&sr=8-12&keywords=tow+hook