Recovery Q&A and help.

You could just as easily put a strap around a hitch pin for free if you have one

 

thanks x2. sounds like an anchor i'm not obligated to carry.

Q: is the hitch pin universal quality or do I have to get specific with the brand? would a grade 8 bolt work just as well - or too ghetto?

straps I understand a bit, and would go the way of a name brand just so I can sleep at night.

 

Don't forget - your hitch is the limiting factor here. It is only rated for 6000 lbs.

While this works very well (I have done this myself many times) do be careful - you may bend the pin while it is in the receiver. Then it becomes very difficult to remove.

 

I am looking at getting a kinetic recovery strap and was curious what peoples opinions are on the size. 3/4 and 7/8 seems to be the most common for tacomas and i have read multiple sites where both are recommend. Bubba ropes recommends the 3/4 but yankum recommends the 7/8 with many more sites go back and forth. I know the rule of trucks weight x3 or 4 which with a DCLB with sliders and a new bumpers puts my weight around 4300ish which would fit a couple thousand LBS below the 3/4(usually around 19,000 MBS). Just curious if there is a down side of getting the larger one just encase i pull someone bigger

 

You should decide on a manufacturer, then follow their recommendation. I have a 24k ARB snatch strap. I’ve used it to recover other vehicles in my Tacoma. Now it lives in my full size truck. It’s probably on the light side for a full size.

 

I carry this one.

$70 ARB 4x4 Accessories ARB705LB Recovery Snatch Strap Orange 30' x 2 3/8", Load capacity 17600 lb, NATA approved, 20% Stretch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5M6BM6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It takes up the entire drivers side rear under the seat cover.

 

This is entirely true. I ended up stashing my ARB under the passenger seat. My compartments are already stuffed with additional recovery gear.

 

I'm going rope over strap as they seem to have a longer life.

 

Can someone tell me why this is? Just curious.

 

It’s nonsense. If you deform the shackle the pin isn’t coming out either way.

From Crosby:
Tightening the Pin in a Screw Pin Shackle
First, Crosby states that screw pin shacklesare to be used in pick and place applications.

Second, the pin must be tight before each lift and must not be able to be rotated while in use.

ASME B30.26 has the following statement regarding screw pin shackles:

The screw pin threads shall be fully engaged and tight and the shoulder should be in contact with the shackle body.

Thus, contrary to popular believe, you should never back off the screw pin before use. The shackle pin should be a minimum of hand tight before the lift begins.



Always make sure the shackle pin is tight!

If the screw pin cannot be threaded into the shackle by hand, this may be the result of deformation.

Note: For permanent or long-term application, use a bolt type shackle with bolt, nut & cotter or in any application that a screw pin shackle is used.

 

They can get jammed in the shackle during a recovery and then you can’t get them out.

 

thank you. I get so sick of hearing that "back it off" junk

 

How can it get "jammed in the shackle" ? Exactly. Ever seen steel shackles torture tested, like until the bow deforms or fails?
the pins still unscrew.

 

I guess “jammed” wasn’t the right word....sometimes the slackening and tensioning of straps can cause that pin to get tighter in the shackle and then you can’t get it out. But it’s better to have a safe recovery and a stuck shackle pin than an unsafe recovery and get injured.

great info

 

Additional information from Crosby. Here's a hot take: Don't leave your EAF screw-pin shackles on your bumper until you need to use them.

 

I just bought some soft shackles and I'm wondering if they are safe to use directly looped into the winch line eyelet like the picture shown below instead of using a winch hook.


I have a couple of standard Warn and Smittybilt winch hooks I can use but I was thinking about taking them out of the equation.

This is on my truck. I would like to run it like this but wondering if it's better to use the winch hook?

 

It’s best to do it exactly the way you have it, without the hook. The soft shackle is less of a projectile if things go wrong.

 

That's what I figured. But I saw a bunch of expensive winch hooks and thimbles on here and it got me second guessing my cheap ass setup. The only way I can see this being bad is abrasion at the connection possibly creating a tear in the shackle. But the shackle has a protective sleeve and the eyelet doesn't seem to have any sharp edges so I think I'm safe.

 

The problem running like this, while not having a hook is a good thing, is the bend radius you subject the soft shackle to. Ideally, you don't want to bend the shackle line tighter than 2 1/2 times the diameter. Bending around the thimble is significantly smaller than 2 1/2 times diameter.

That being said, while the marine industry, climbing industry, etc. follows the guidelines, it seems a lot of off-road people (and industry) do not follow it strictly.

I am searching for the definitive answer, but have yet to find it.

 

I've never seen a manufacturer of line say not to use bends smaller than 2.5d. I've seen lots of suggestions, but never a "do not do this" from the maker of a rope.

You may have, which if so please show me. I wouldnt be surprised as you have way more experience in the field than I do.


also, and not related to anything you said...



please remember that synthetic winch lines DO store energy and WILL snap back when broken under tension.