regearing my 2016

so I have a 2016 TRD OR as pictured.. 265/70/17 duratracs on 17' rims, 2.4" Dobinson MRA lift with heavy rate coils, and 111R rear leafs with MRA shocks. Mobtown offroad sliders and CBI steel skids, with an SSO slimline hybrid bumper, and Smitty XRC 10k comp winch... so a bit of weight, adding on the new Max Modular 14" rack and RTT I am feeling every lb of weight, and feel the only solution is to re-gear to 5.29's in prep for getting 33" 285/70/17 or 295/70/17 tires...



I have mechanical skillset, and most all of the tools, or access to them (just need to borrow a buddies inlb tq wrench and get myself a bearing puller for the pinion/diff ($40).. unless the stock bearings are re-useable.I have a 12ton hydraulic press, I have an accurate ft lbstorque wrench..

gearset can be had for about $1500 including master install kit (bearings/seals) (I would get OEM seals though...) and I would also make sure I get appropriate shim stacks with the master kit.. I don't plan to get a front locker, but may look into an ARB, and just not plumb it up until I get an onboard air setup.

reasons to do it myself:
1. no shops around here (midcoast Maine) do gearsets that i could easily drive home from (break in)
2. gear break-in procedure 5min stop & cool for hour, 10min, cool for an hour, 20min cool for an hour... nearest shops in Wells Maine (2.5hr drive in normal conditions) would take me a good day to get home like this.. and annoy other travellers...
3. cost: ECGS, would be over $3900 initial cost + shipping.... even with swapping ($2000 core charges)..
4. I have already done the ECGS bushing install on this front end...
5. done on my time
6. I drive all of 10 minutes to work and back home.. break in would be done in about 3 weeks with normal driving (speeds vary from 25-35-55-45mph on my route), hills and such....
7. Its my DD, and will help performance/mpg
8. ???

reasons not to do it:
1. time (I imagine doing this in my driveway will be about a day or so per axle.)
2. could screw it up (not likely, I have a bit of OCD)
3. its my DD
4. ???

 

One other option I've been thinking about is to buy a used 3rd member and regear that one on your own time. Then swap it with the stock one so theres less downtime and pressure to get the gears done in a weekend. For the front you can also buy a used diff to do the same thing. Or remove front diff and CVs, then swap in 2wd wheel bearings temporarily. Although not sure if the second method would mess with any of the more electronically integrated 3rd gens

I think this is the route I will take since I don't want to rush myself on the gear install and make a mistake, or take up time on my daily if things take longer than expected

 

I would easily do it if I was you. If you have a problem it should be pretty obvious. I'm guessing you could knock this out in a weekend.

 

the 3rd members are expensive... close to $1400,

ECGS lists theirs for $1450 for the e-locker rear core..... 2405 total with return label, solid spacer, 5.29's no gear oil...

front end... $550 core charge $1495 total...

$3900 total initial charge, $2000 in core charges would be returned.... still a $1900 bill + shipping..... I have sent out a few e-mails just to cover my bases.., and does not include oil, or break in....

 

Just spend the extra money and have the gears Rem polished and Cryo treated that way you do not have to worry so much for the break in. It cost me 550.00 for Rem polish and cryo treatment for front and back gears.

 

who does this? east coast?

 

If you have the tools and properly understand the 4 parameters of gear setup you should do it. A quality bearing puller that doesn't damage bearings and is easy to use is worth its weight in gold when doing diff work. Making dummy bearings from your old stuff is also a good idea. Make sure you have a puller, beam or gauge style in-lbf torque wrench, adapters to put a large socket on that in-lbf torque wrench, a dial indicator or test indicator, an adapter or method to get that indicator into the front clamshell diff, gear marking compound, shims, dead blow hammer, brass punches, etc.

I suggest spending the $350. https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-131253-carrier-and-pinion-bearing-puller-tool.html

Make sure you understand how to properly read gear patterns as this will make sure your gears last for years or hours.

Check out my front ARB install thread for tips on working with the 8" clamshell.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-arb-air-locker-diy-install-thread.692979/

 

I have some tools... still not enough to fill this.. but....

 

I assume you have normal tools, but some of the special diff tools don't live in most shops.

 

reasons not to do it:
1. time (I imagine doing this in my driveway will be about a day or so per axle.)

Rear is not so bad and can be easily done. I suggest starting with 0.082" pinion shim. I believe OEM is usually around 0.076". You'll need to play with the carrier shims to get your backlash and preload right. Reusing the OEM will get you close to almost no backlash and preload will be loose. If you use new bearings on the carrier, you'll have to cut the old ones off as there is no relief to use a puller on them. Ask yourself how you plan on crushing the pinion sleeve. If you don't have a jig, it will be impossible. Unless of course you use a solid pinion spacer, then you'll just have to shim it. You'll also need to get a new blue elocker connector as you will destroy the old one attempting to remove it.

The front is where you will have the most trouble. I made a jig out of 6" angle iron in order to press out the pinion and big pinion bearing race. You'll also need a test indicator to check backlash as the only way to check is through the drain plug hole. Again, ask yourself how you plan on crushing the pinion sleeve.

2. could screw it up (not likely, I have a bit of OCD)

If you have time and patience along with the correct tools for the job you'll be fine.

3. its my DD

It usually takes me about 4hrs per diff to set up. This includes cleaning them prior to inserting the new parts. With removal and reinstall in total my best time is 11hrs. This is your first time, so make sure you have a plan to do it in 3 days.

4. ???

Break in is different than you have written. Go to ECGS website and scroll to bottom of page. Click on tech articles. The 7th or 8th link under axle tech is break in procedure. Follow that. Initial break in is the only one where you drive for 15min and let cool for 30. After that it's 50miles and cool for 25min.

 

yeah I read the ZUK writeups... fairly informative.

 

If you were doing through ECGS with their swapping program. I'm talking local guy parting out a wrecked truck, so no shipping, no return core. Fron the part out buy diff/pull yourself, do regear at home with extra diff, then swap with current one. I've found 4runner diffs well below $500 in my area. Tacoma could be a different story, but an option to look into