reh5108's 4 Banging SHITBOX tUrBo 4x4 Build

Strong work, Ryan! Kudos for doing this yourself.

 

Don't give me kudos yet wait until it's all back together and purring like a kitten! Haha

 

Valve shims came in yesterday apparently. Fortunately I know the lady at the post office and she always puts my stuff in a locker so I was able to pick them up today.

Installed them and everything is within spec but at the maximum on the high end. From the reading I've done these tend to get tighter so hopefully it doesn't become an issue. I've also seen people say the clearances should be check every 30k. If you have a 3rz with high miles and have never checked your clearances I would recommend doing so. Seems like it's really the only issue these motors have.

These seals were probably the hardest part of this job. They don't like to come out. One of them was cracked so they did need to be replaced.


2017-07-23_10-37-45 by Ryan Heintzelman - Flickr2BBcode


Got the cover back on and realized my torque wrench doesn't go low enough for the bolts. 4.5ft-lbs is what they should be. I just finger tightened and then another half a turn. Hopefully that is good enough... I did put a dab of FPIG on the gasket where the half moon plugs are. Only place I saw had it from before. Some say to put some on the corners but I didn't.

Hoping to get the intake back together tomorrow and have it running again. I seemed to have misplaced my oil cap though so I may need to wait on that.

 

So I got everything back together and now I have a tap coming from the valve cover. I torqued down the bolts that hold the cam shaft and covered everything in oil as well as double checked the clearances before put the cover back on. The FSM calls for 0.25mm - 0.35mm on the exhaust side. Four of the valves are at the maximum of 0.35mm. Would that be enough to make them noisy?

I haven't done anything other than let the engine warm up and it seems to be running fine. No CEL

I have a short video as soon as it's done uploading I'll post it.

 

Yes, the extra valve clearance will cause some tapping. Mine was noticeably louder after I opened up all the clearances.

 

https://youtu.be/-y489VsWmjQ

Sounds like a motor lol. Maybe I'm just paranoid.

 

Is there anything that sounds like an exhaust leak but isn't? I've got a ticking coming from the back of the motor near the egr pipe. Only happens when I put a load on it, basically anytime I accelerate. This started on my way home from PA and I just thought for sure it was an exhaust leak but I can't seem to find one.

 

I found my exhaust leaks by making an airline plug that went in the tailpipe. Only run about 5psi (DO NOT DO MORE) into the exhaust and you will find all of the air leaks in one shot.

 

Sounds like an exhaust leak to me. It's not uncommon at all for it to leak out the bottom of the EGR pipe on either the intake manifold or the flange on the header. Mine likes to leak at the collector for the header into the main exhaust tube flange. I usually diagnose by feeling around with my hands after cold starting the engine. It normally makes itself pretty obvious quickly.

 

Found a hose that was disconnected that was making the tick much louder. It still ticks but not as much. I felt all around the header and egr and couldn't feel anything.

I just did a compression test, something I should have done a while ago.

Cylinder 1 - 90 psi
Cylinder 2 - 110
Cylinder 3 - 100
Cylinder 4 - 105

The FSM states 124psi as the minimum and no more than 14psi difference.

Now do I take the easy and probably fastest route and swap in another 3rz, learn a whole bunch about motors and rebuild it which would be time consuming or swap a ls1 or 2jz taking lots of time and fab. As of now the first choice is looking the most appealing.

 

An ls swapped 1st gen would be awesome. Easy for me to say though since I'm not the one who would have to do all the work.

 

How many miles on the current 3rz?

 

Just over 230k

 

It would be but with more power things break easier. I'm not looking to sas this rig ever or even LT it. Its pretty well built for overlanding and I was thinking a blower would be the last major mod and then just creature comforts for camping.

I found rebuilt 3rz for $1200 with 300 miles. Might just pick that up.

 

Hard to argue with that logic.

 

I doubt your 3rz pistons and rings are cashed out at that mileage honestly...there was still crosshatching in mine at 350k. If it runs fine, I really wouldn't worry about it. Compression numbers can be all over the place depending on how hot the motor is. A leakdown test is better to determine what is wearing over time.

 

^^^ this^^^
Ryan drive that tank till it don't drive no more then fix it.
My sons 1st gen had a miss compression check revieled 0 compression in #2 cylinder found a crack in the head between the valves, got a new casting put everything in new head put it back together and away she went
269000 on it and going strong.

 

It was still pretty warm and cylinder 1 was the first to be checked. The last leakdown test I did was between 15% and 20% on all cylinders. I'd like to get a scope and check things out in the cylinders.

 

I just dont want it to leave me stranded at 12000ft with a snowstorm rolling in.

 

Just my opinion, but if you're wheeling alone much, and reliability is key, a swapped motor doesn't seem like the best idea.

An LS would be bad ass, no doubt, but it seems like a 3rz that you can trust with maybe a SC down the road would be perfect for your style.