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Removal of spare tire assembly.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JJ04TACO, Aug 28, 2019.

  1. Aug 28, 2019 at 10:36 AM
    #1
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I installed a BAMF shock mount last year and rendered my spare carrier useless. I’ve put the impact on the bolts that seem to hold it in and went to town and got nothing. This is removable yes?

    I’m thinking of lighting it up with the blowtorch and trying again.

    That said it seems to offer up some structural support for the frame soooo maybe it stays?

    It was in my way a bit while trying to install my L track...
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  2. Aug 28, 2019 at 10:40 AM
    #2
    eon_blue

    eon_blue 8" third member

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    I remember looking at doing this awhile ago and it didn't look easy, so I just zip tied the chain up and left it alone. Subbed though to see if anyone has a way of doing it
     
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  3. Aug 28, 2019 at 10:42 AM
    #3
    BikerinBlak909

    BikerinBlak909 Well-Known Member

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    It helps keep the frame straight just like rest of the cross support members. It can be unbolted n removed but I wouldn't.
     
  4. Aug 28, 2019 at 10:46 AM
    #4
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF This statement is false.

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    20190521_103424.jpg

    Looks like you could remove the little crane from it, but the bolts are on top.
     
    davidstacoma, GQ7227 and frizzman like this.
  5. Aug 28, 2019 at 11:02 AM
    #5
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    I think they mean removing the tire carrier, not the entire crossmember

    but yeah @JJ04TACO , the 4 bolts come out of the top of the mechanism, gotta lift the bed to take them out.

    edit: a lot of these were replaced under TSB for "cold weather" states due to rust (surprise) so definitely doable.
     
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  6. Aug 28, 2019 at 12:17 PM
    #6
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...
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    borla catBack custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/...ab_Pickup/tires_and_wheels/change_a_flat_tire


    my spare tire does not want to come out like this video
    it will not lower all the way to the ground :confused: ... still has a couple inches to go i think
    this is the first time i have ever lowered it and try to remove it so what to do now
    <<< newb at the finest of levels
    gonna hose it with some KB blaster to loosen it up see how that can work
     
  7. Aug 28, 2019 at 1:52 PM
    #7
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    yeah, probably rusted or could even be bound up on the spool. try giving the cable a few good "tugs" and see if it pulls out. the tire should be flat on the ground and the cable should have slack
     
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  8. Aug 28, 2019 at 1:58 PM
    #8
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...
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    borla catBack custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    a hammer did it and a nice long blaster soak on the steel wheel
    cable might be jammed up in there i don't know
    thanks!
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2019
    cruiserguy likes this.
  9. Aug 28, 2019 at 6:01 PM
    #9
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...
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    borla catBack custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    took spare off (tilted at an angle with half touching the ground)
    it looks like it was just bound up on the spool, cable was nice shiny silver, sprayed it with pB blaster (after tire off) and tried the wrench again. was able to get about six more inches which looked covered in yellow lube/grease (from the factory?)

    might I need to grease the cable before spooling it back up and zip tie it?
    the spare will be off for a period of time
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2019
  10. Aug 1, 2020 at 2:16 PM
    #10
    Dylwhit

    Dylwhit Well-Known Member

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    Just went to replace mine because itss super rusted and didnt realize you needed to lift the god damn bed off
     
  11. Aug 1, 2020 at 3:06 PM
    #11
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I cut so many out in this part of the country they rust fast after a few winters.

    Besides crawling under the truck to check the air pressure got old fast
     
  12. Aug 1, 2020 at 3:09 PM
    #12
    Dylwhit

    Dylwhit Well-Known Member

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    Two of the bolts on the top are right under a cross brace of the bed and I cant get em out. So annoying that they could have mounted this 0.5inches aft and it woulda been a breeze
     
  13. Aug 2, 2020 at 6:11 AM
    #13
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    I just rehabbed mine a little over a month ago. Cable was rusted to the spool and would only come down 6" or so.
    You have to drill out the rivets in the corners. I't's a fairly simple winch.
    I ended up welding mine back together as it was just quicker, but you could bolt is back.
    I used a small square file to remove the rust from the spool.

    upload_2020-8-2_8-5-47.jpg

    upload_2020-8-2_8-6-4.jpg upload_2020-8-2_8-6-24.jpg

    upload_2020-8-2_8-6-46.jpg

    My cross brace and the tire stabilizer arms were rusted to pieces, so I made a replacement. I was already replacing that part of the frame anyway.

    upload_2020-8-2_8-9-2.jpg
     
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  14. Aug 8, 2020 at 8:23 PM
    #14
    Youngandthriving

    Youngandthriving Well-Known Member

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    I removed my frame tire carrier assembly and rear crossmember. 10 stubborn bolts and had to cut the thing out. Made a removable simpler version for the time being. Planning on making an underside tire carrier that sits closer to the underside of my bed for additional clearance.
     
  15. Aug 8, 2020 at 8:25 PM
    #15
    Youngandthriving

    Youngandthriving Well-Known Member

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    What did you use to rebuild the rear frame rail ends? Looking to reconstruct mine after chopping for flatbed
     
  16. Aug 9, 2020 at 6:55 AM
    #16
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    I used 3/16" tread plate steel. I don't recommend the tread type for several reasons. That's almost double the original frame thickness. Original is about 1/8". I had that plate on hand, so I used it. For my truck, it was overkill since it is not meant for anything but minor off road, and here in the Midwest, that means mud, not rock crawling.

    The raised treads become a nuisance for welding brackets, joints etc because nothing sits flat against the plate unless you grind them down at the attachment point.

    Also, to save material in cutting out the main pieces, one side of my frame has the tread side out, the other is smooth side out. By accepting that little difference, I was able to "spoon" (left image) the parts on the layout and save about 1/3 of the sheet of metal. That put the treads facing in on one side, out on the other. Hey, it's hidden under the bed, so the savings was worth it to me.

    upload_2020-8-9_8-47-47.jpg
     
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