Remove front drive shaft for 2-low?

If I remove the front driveshaft on my 2016 Taco, will the truck still go into 4L? Obviously it won't be 4 wheel drive but can I get into low range without the stupid computer going crazy?

I haven't crawled under the truck yet. Is the front DS easy to remove? Is it a bolt-on on both ends or does one end have a splined shaft that would leave the Diff or Xfer Case internals exposed if the shaft were removed?

 

What in the world would you be trying to accomplish with this?

 

Manual tranny, backing a 4000 lb. trailer up a hard-surface inclined driveway.

 

You could look into a front mount trailer hitch... Never used one but I think it would be perfect for you.

 

I don’t immediattly see it not working.

But, your front axles would still be engaged. I think you’d have to prevent the front axle from engaging as well.

 

Why does the front drive shaft need to be removed to accomplish the tow?

 

Yea, that would make it easier to see but would do next to nothing to slow my speed while maneuvering the trailer. I'd still be slipping the clutch to keep my speed down.

I would expect the front axle ADD to work as usual, engage the front axle but with no connect to the transfer case it would (should) 100% safe to run on pavement due to the action of the front open differential.

 

To allow running the transfer case in 4L while still having the vehicle in 2 wheel drive. Reverse is now 2.5 times lower and I can back the trailer up the hill with the clutch fully engaged.
The other approach is a somewhat involved electronic bypass of the front ADD / computer. That is the better solution but until I get the parts and hours of time to do the under dash wiring mod, the DS removal may be a solution.

 

Isn't there a 2 wheel low mod somewhere on here? Wait....found it!
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lock-stock-and-2wheel-low-3rd-gen-diy-mod.536677/

 

@n1as hey try this? Seems like a better idea and less of a hassle

https://www.saferwholesale.com/5000...-Trailer-Dolly-p/gsi-trailerdolly-5000lbs.htm

 

Damn it seems like it shouldn't be that big of a deal to just not lock the front diff. I don't care if the transfer case is in 4 Lo just as long as the front diff is not locked so it can be turned sharp on dry pavement.

 

Exactly, @thdrduck. But apparently if you simply bypass the front axle lock, the computer will detect that as a system failure and will refuse to put the xfer case into 4x4 or low range. Looking at images of the front DS, I suspect the 3rd gen uses a slip joint at the front diff so removing the DS may well leave the internals of the diff open to leaking and debris. That would not be good.

I sure miss the days when 4x4's came with free-wheeling hubs and mechanical levers to shift the xfer case. They were simple and worked. In fact I would argue they worked better!

 

Just do the mod above, it isn't that hard and parts? Really it's one relay, one resistor, one switch, and some typical wiring components.

Alternatively, if you really want a half assed quick solution, I got to where I can do the below operstion in 2 minutes max.
Put truck in 4 low
Climb under truck and access front add connector, disconnect. (Need aft skid plate off from OR/Pro.
Apply 3 to 6 volts to pin 3 and 4 of the add (I used a 3AA flashlight battery holder to drive the actuator to the free position. It will take about 3 seconds to move. If it takes less than a second, you positioned it to locked, reverse polarity and try again. Leave add connector off.

Go drive truck in 2 lo. Truck will lock out 4wd mode changes for now, expect ecu errors.

When done with 2lo
Shut off truck
Access add connector
Apply 3-6 volts to position add into a mid position. Don't put it either fully locked or unlocked, just somewhere in between. Plug connector back in.
Start truck. Ecu will detect that add is in a mid position, and will move it to correct position.

Your Done.

If you leave add fully locked or unlocked and reconnect wire, computer will fail safe to prevent 4wd mode changes. This is a failsafe to lock out further motion if the add tried to run away in either direction. If add is in a mid position, ecu will fix it....


Or just do the mod

 

Did you see/read the link I sent? I believe it's exactly what you're looking for.

 

Is there a reason you are afraid of just using 4lo? It sounds like you're not in a situation that will introduce binding and you'd have more traction.

 

Get yourself a winch that will fit your truck and pull that trailer up the drive way.

 

But doesn't doing this in 4-LO do the same thing?

 

Is your driveway straight?

 

@BigWhiteTRD, I'm aware of your mod and consider it the best long-term solution. You are right that I'm considering other short-term work-arounds. Manually overriding the ADD may be the best of those. I'll know if/when I slide under my truck and look at that driveshaft.

Thanks y'all for your ideas.

 

I'm on pavement. Binding is definitely an issue.

4wd on hard surface yields binding in the transfer case and likely damage. Something in the front end has to be disconnected to avoid this.

My driveway is straight but I am turning as I'm backing in off the street. Also, this isn't just for my driveway, but for anytime I'm maneuvering the trailer in reverse.