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Removing a modular switch from the dash

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Odiferous, Apr 11, 2021.

  1. Apr 11, 2021 at 4:30 PM
    #1
    Odiferous

    Odiferous [OP] Member

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    2013 Access Cab Base I4
    Anyone have any tips on removing an actual switch module from the dash, under the A/C controls? Searching turned up a few discussions about removing the blanks, but the switch is quite tight. I can barely get a couple fingers on it from above, after removing the A/C panel, but not enough to depress the top latch, and no chance of getting to the bottom one. The switch has about 0.025" vertical clearance--trying to slide a shim in top or bottom isn't helping. Anything I can think of that would be strong enough to depress the tabs from the front would be thick enough to mar the dash.

    The problem child is this--only a handful of uses and the innards have broken loose and slide away from whatever you try to plug in. Its larger brother in one of the slots to the left of the steering column has held up fine.
     
  2. Apr 12, 2021 at 1:45 AM
    #2
    TACOMA2NDGEN

    TACOMA2NDGEN Well-Known Member

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    ROLAND
    new jersey
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    If you pull the center console out where the shifter is and remove the two 10mm bolts from the center arm rest you can move the whole thing back and up to gain more access
     
  3. Apr 25, 2021 at 12:52 PM
    #3
    Odiferous

    Odiferous [OP] Member

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    Well, that sucked. Removing the entire center console wasn't enough--there's still several inches of smooth dash under the switch slots, and it became very clear that nothing would allow better access to the back side of those switch modules other than removing the lower center dash piece. That requires removing the center console, glove box, head unit, and partially unfastening several other trim pieces--finally found another thread that detailed the process: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lower-dash-below-a-c-control-removal.423702/.

    As for the module itself, generously applied E6000 and hot melt glue will make sure the internals stay in place. There clearly should have been tailpiece keeping it all together, but I didn't find anything when I had it all torn apart.
     
  4. Apr 25, 2021 at 12:54 PM
    #4
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Taco Outlaw

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    Robert
    San Mateo/Cayucos, CA
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    Boosted Money Pit....
    Yah getting to those is a PIA. You can get there without removing the lower but it’s a pain and almost impossible but can be down. I ended up doing what you did and removed entire and it was easy. Once you get a hang of removing the dash you can do it quickly.
     
  5. Apr 25, 2021 at 10:19 PM
    #5
    RecklessTLS

    RecklessTLS Well-Known Member

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    TRD CAI and Exhaust,ECGS bushing, Blistien 6112 Fronts at 2.5, SPC upper arms, Bilstien 5160 Rear with 2in AAL, Interior light mod, Back up camera anytime Mod, Overhead Console Temp/Compass Fix. Leather Interior with heated seats, Weathertech floor liners, Ultraguage, Oil catch can, Smart Tap, More to come
    I used a harbor freight feeler gauge to slide between the switch and cut out. Use the thicker ones so it will push the tab down without it binding up. Zip tie ends work well to hold it open to do the next one
     
    deanosaurus likes this.
  6. Apr 25, 2021 at 10:22 PM
    #6
    tedusmc1345

    tedusmc1345 Well-Known Member

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    I would get add fuse for this too.
     

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