Removing LCA Bolts with steering rack in the way

Hello everyone I'm creating this because I didn't see anything like this before and maybe it can help some of you with the same frustrations. So I needed to change my LCAs out so I bought AC Delco Heavy duty arms(from rock auto) and new lower ball joints. There are lost of threads that show how to pull off UCA and spindle pretty easy. To pop ball joints I used a ball joint press, will post photos. So fast forward to LCA troubles I get to bolts/casters and I loosen it with 23MM wrench. you will find you can NOT pull out the bolts because the steering rack is in the way so I unbolted the steering rack(and replaced bushings while I was at it) so I unbolted steering rack on the passenger side first there are 2 bolts top and bottom and it's in the shape of a U covering the rack right before the steering arm. Then you need to go to the middle of the rack there is a bolt up on top.(easiest to get to it from the front of the truck) While I was there I loosened the nut to bottom right as well since you have to pull it off for the other side. One that was loosened I pulled the rack off the middle portion then lowered it to the floor thus able to get bolt off on LCA and replace that side. Did the same to the driver side with the bolt I loosened but didn't pull off yet. So 4 bolts in total for steering rack 19mm 24mm sockets are all I remember using. Hope this helps some of you I know this isn't the best but better then nothing. I'm not a mechanic just played with it and this worked for me. Also replace your bump stops those don't come with the new arms I didn't replace mine because I just bought hydro bumps from Swayaway and I'm waiting for them to come in.

 

photos arent working for me fyi

 

How about now?

 

working well

 

Yeah I see them now

 

Pulling the boot clamps and sliding the steering rack boots towards the OTRE's is the easier way to get the Cam bolts out.

 

how would you compare the aftermarket arms to the OEM arms? build quality, weight, material thickness?

 

This does not work with out placing a jack under the steering rack. I removed my LCA's 2 weeks ago and it was possible but you would definitely gouge the surface of the steering rack internals under the boot doing it. and who knows what else putting a jack on the steering rack. its makes for cleaner removal/installation when your not fighting the steering rack.

 

Thanks. i need to do this myself. nice to see some how-to's are available.

 

I like the bucket idea!

 

Huh. Yeah you're right. The bolt actually hits the rack itself. I guess I must of loosened the rack, pulled it back an inch or two and also pulled the boot when I did my LCA bushings to get the bolt out.
IDK, seems like a bad idea to have a jack lifting up on the steering rack.

 

Easiest way is to leave the bolt loose but "in" on the driver's side (the one that goes through the cross-member). This allows you to rotate the rack to remove the bolts. Since you will be removing the LCAs you can disconnect the OTREs. OPs extensive run-on had me scratching my head until I could make out some semblance of punctuation. More pics of the rack and less of the LCA/LBJ process and you could have met the title description.

Yes, I know this sounds rude but it is what it is. Pics/description reflects "almost" nothing of what the title suggested

http://www.bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_02.html

 

Nah don't worry about it thank you for the link! Like I said "not the best" and "better then nothing" plus I wasn't going to do this anyway I took the pics for someone else I just posted cause I figured it could help some other a bit. I was called into work the next morning by my capt so I did this as fast as possiable and then went to get an alignment real fast all while replacing UCA bushings and uniballs and rack bushings haha

 

Yes I agree. do not have jack pressing up on steering rack as mine is not, just there for support. I stopped as soon as I touched the rack.

 

Honestly the heavy duty AC Delco arms were very similar to OEM in both weight and thickness from what I observed. So far so good I did pay 230$ for the pair with shipping compared to other after market arms that would have cost me 90$ for the pair plus shipping but they were noticeably thinner then oem. Over all I'm happy with the build of them. I'm taking them off roading may 20th I'll update then how they hold up!

 

I think the arms should be fine and they are welded pretty good. the LBJ is usually what will go bad first. any reason you didn't want to just replace the bushings?

 

Didn't have the time to mess with trying to get them out and I drive about 130 miles round trip from my station home. when I do get time I'm going to replace the bushings and just keep them on standby cause I'd rather have the oem. I'm pretty hard on my truck so I figured it doesn't hurt to have spare parts.