Removing Push Button Start

Not to argue with the merit of what you want to do, but more to put your mind at ease...

In all of my time on TW, I've yet to read a single case where the PST has failed. I'm not saying it hasn't happened, but I'm guessing you'd have better chances of getting struck by lightning.

Also, if the battery dies, the key still works. You just have to hold it up to the ignition button and push it. A dead battery will not stop you from starting the truck.

 

You'd have to; swap out several ECUs(Main, Engine Immobiliser, Transponder, etc), rewire the CAN/LAN networks between them, rewire branch CAN/LAN networks, rewire terminal harnesses to said ECUs, install keyed ignition, hope everything registers and initializes....gremlin factor is high.

Leave the fob in an Altoid box in your truck.
Carry the spare for door.
Remove fob from Altoid when you want to start.

 

On that note.. I have a 2017 purchased in March 2017. Battery still going strong. Then again I rarely need to push the button as it is RFid and the proximity sensors detect it when I am near. This allows doors to unlock and ignition to work.

On the converse, I replaced the battery in my Mother-in-Law's key for her 2010 Camry just before I bought my truck. I remember this because I used the last of that size battery in some Christmas decor and had to order more from Amazon. She just had me change it again because it "does not always work when I go to the store" so about 2 year for a retiree with no place to go to toast a battery.

 

@mesojdm @micwillia

Possible to 3D print a necklace, lanyard, bracelet, headband... something to put the FOB guts into? Probably don't need to incorporate the valet key... dealer's choice.

Not the typical "manly" TW mod, but may have some merit with some end users.

 

I want to change mine out so it is voice activated only by my voice. So when someone steals it, it will respond, "Start the car, my ass. Get out, I am calling the police".

 

The house key thing is easy to fix. I put a touch pad on my front door (Schlage) which can be unlocked with a 4 digit code (it also has a key, if the battery dies). You can have many codes, for house keepers, each family member, guests, etc. which can be disabled or changed individually, so it is actually more secure than giving someone a key. My last house had 13 locks that needed to be changed, every time I changed house keepers.

 

I don't carry any keys anymore. I have the key card in my wallet and remote access to my house and it's locks. Keys are so 20th century lol.

I do not have a housekeeper though...

 

If you lose your keys in the truck, your in close proximity to still start it and unlock doors. You cant drive off without them as it wont let you.

 

Get a Lexus credit card key.... problem solved?

 

Credit cards are what got her into this mess in the first place!

 

Before I bought this Tacoma I drove a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee that was so damn quiet I left it running while I went inside the movie theater for over two hours.
It was daylight when I went in and dark by the time the movie ended and I left the theater - when I got outside to the parking lot I noticed my headlights were on (automatic). I thought "well, that's weird". Then as I got closer I could see the exhaust and then hear the engine running. I'm so overconfident in my non-stupidity that my first thought was not "holy crap, did I leave it running?" but rather "holy crap, do I have a remote starter and never realized it?" haha Well, I didn't have a remote starter. Lesson learned. I still can't figure out how it didn't get stolen - my only theory is that it was TOO obvious and prospective crooks thought it was a "bait car".

 

It's possible of course. It's just not easy, cheap or cost effective by a long shot. I considered it when we got a T4R LTD and it came standard.
The reason I considered it is the list of possible complications they give you that can affect all sorts of medical and electronic devices that is as long as my arm and it scared the chit out of me.
But Alas, I figured it was mostly lawyer a$$ covering for the most part and not that any of the drivers have any medical issues or devices that can make it a real bad day to worry about, but the system just works flawlessly going on several years now.

But to do the swap without an aftermarket conversion kit without ugly complications, I figured that at the very least I would need to find a wrecked SR/SR5 in a wrecking yard and swap out the steering column, ecm(s) and hopefully the wrecking yard would have the keys/fob that would go with that vehicle for an easy swap. Plenty of those tacos (wrecked) out there now if you read some of the threads here on TW. No need to rip out the door sensor as once the (ecm)system is out, the SR/SR5 set up should ignore it and be of no consequence...Hopefully.

The next big hurdle (ha!) is where to keep the keys. If you wear boots it's easy, just slide it there. And I can think of other locations but I don't want to introduce the creep factor here too lol!

Hope that helps
Cheers!

 

Thanks. I am aware of the keypad locks. I also have 2 old ladies living I the house. One, my mother in law, is terrified of mo ing the wife's Rav cause she does not understand the PTS.

Rather than change locks when a different key is needed. I bought lock sets that can be relayed. 4 exterior doors each got different lock codes. Then I keyed them all to the same key. Later, twice as a meter of fact, when they needed to be changed I had 3 options sitting in a drawer to be put to use. Easy peasy. A d the old women understand the tech from the 1800s.

When it gets down to me and the wife in the house I will get electronic locks and re tag keys. Till then I will just quietly cuss and complain about using tech created before the county was.

 

Splitbolt mentioned the likely steps above
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-push-button-start.588053/page-3#post-19628401

But just to reiterate. I haven't sniffed the can data to try and see what is in it, but I am now 99% sure many of these ECUs get a lot of their configuration setup or similar based on other ECUs telling them what model/trim they are in.

For example, same 4wd ECU is in the 2wd OR as the 4wd OR. When in 4wd truck, this ecu allows rear diff lock only in 4lo. When in 2wd truck, rear diff locks 'anytime'. Same ECU... But ECU behaves differently based on data from another ECU telling it if it is installed in a 4wd. (It doesnt seem to base it on the wiring or connections, I think it has to be CAN data)

Same with the immobilizer ECU based on @Victory work. The same ECU is in several vehicles, but the passenger handle entry pins (on the ECU) aren't active in our truck, but are in other vehicles. These auxillary ECUs know what vehicle model and configuration should be from the main ecu, or some programming module that I dont see listed in the manuals.

If swap main ecu to the trim you want, hopefully that config data comes with the ECU.

 

IF it’s possible you will waste a ton of money converting it. Either find an SR5 or figure out a way to carry the FOB and live with PBS.

 

We have a rav4 with PTS. I think my favorite feature is the proximity sensor that unlocks the door when you get near the vehicle and the touch sensor on the outside door handle to lock it as you leave. So no need to pull out the fob to unlock or lock. Just walk up get in and go.

 

BTW

Go to lexus card, keep same place as you keep your driver license.. i love it, have 2 now one for wife and one for me. and it is not even my daily driver...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lexus-credit-card-key-working-in-tacoma.445979/

 

Get an sr5

 

I am betting the DL lives in her purse, so the same problem exists as leaving the fob inside the truck.

On that note, one CAN leave the fob in the truck and lock the truck via the driver's door using the slide out key. You could even have a "standard" key cut to keep on your lanyard and lock the fob in the truck, essentially giving you a key lock/unlock taco with PTS