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Replaced both brake calipers now soft pedal even after bleeding.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by NewfoundlandTaco, Feb 7, 2016.

  1. Feb 7, 2016 at 11:29 AM
    #1
    NewfoundlandTaco

    NewfoundlandTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I had a caliper go bad yesterday and I put my foot on the brake and the pedal went to the floor, fluid all over the driveway. So today I replaced the caliper and pads, when replacing the pads on the other side that caliper was seized, go figure. Now after bleeding both fronts the pedal is still really bad. The fluid in the reservoir got way down past min after losing fluid yesterday. Is it possible I need to bleed the rears now too? Or is there something I'm missing, possibly ABS related?
     
  2. Feb 7, 2016 at 12:06 PM
    #2
    Blacktaco2042

    Blacktaco2042 Well-Known Member

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    it would be best to bleed the fronts then the rears and then the fronts again. you might need to adjust the rear brakes to help get the high pedal
     
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  3. Feb 7, 2016 at 12:08 PM
    #3
    Skrain

    Skrain Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.

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    Just keep bleeding the system to be sure ALL the air is out. Sometimes it takes a while.
     
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  4. Feb 7, 2016 at 1:23 PM
    #4
    McTeague

    McTeague Well-Known Member

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    Every time I bleed the brakes on the Cobra it takes way longer than it should. Its a hassle for me to get the air out it takes determination and patience. I installed speed bleeders and that helped a lot. Brake fluid needs changed annually in my opinion if at all possible so using speed bleeders or some other technical solution helps a lot. I do not know about Tacomas, but on the Cobra if you get air in the ABS module a scan tool is required to correct that and it is typically time to take it to the stealership if that occurs.
     
  5. Feb 7, 2016 at 1:30 PM
    #5
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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  6. Feb 7, 2016 at 1:41 PM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    Yeah honestly when you let the system go dry or go past a minimum level you end up retaining a ton of air in the system which unless you have a vaccuum bleeder will take a while to get all the bubbles out of the system.
     
  7. Feb 7, 2016 at 2:44 PM
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    Macs06

    Macs06 New Member

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    It might be possible that you'll need to bleed the master cylinder to get rid of the air if the fluid got really low. I would start there then do each wheel according to the proper bleeding order.
     
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  8. Feb 7, 2016 at 2:47 PM
    #8
    Stags863

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    You probably got air in the master cylinder. Keep on bleeding.
     
  9. Feb 7, 2016 at 3:01 PM
    #9
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Well-Known Member

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    sure its not your booster? where was the fluid coming from? typically fluid on the ground is a cracked line. Not saying a caliper cant leak but typically the pistons dont release..but if everything else looks good make sure your fluid level is good and keep bleeding the brakes
     
  10. Feb 7, 2016 at 5:42 PM
    #10
    Wrench1225

    Wrench1225 Well-Known Member

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    Start at the wheel furthest from master then work your way to master. But before you do that pull the wheels and double check your work.
    The other thing but not likely check the thickness of rotor's.
     
  11. Feb 7, 2016 at 8:41 PM
    #11
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    If air did find its way to the master cylinder, I think you may end up having to bench bleed it.

    If you have an integrated master cyl/ABS unit, you'll likely need techstream software(Toyota) to get things sorted out. I'm saying this because the fluid may have gotten too low.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2016
  12. Feb 8, 2016 at 3:55 AM
    #12
    Wrench1225

    Wrench1225 Well-Known Member

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    That's a new one on me. If this is true it's one of the many reasons I disconnect battery before I do any work on the brakes requiring a bleedING later.
     
  13. Feb 8, 2016 at 6:14 AM
    #13
    NewfoundlandTaco

    NewfoundlandTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    If there is air in the master cylinder bleeding from the calipers won't remove it, will it?
     
  14. Feb 8, 2016 at 11:18 AM
    #14
    Wrench1225

    Wrench1225 Well-Known Member

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    Correct if the air is in the master got to bleed master
     
  15. Feb 8, 2016 at 11:43 AM
    #15
    68vert

    68vert Well-Known Member

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    same problem for me on my last 2 Tacos (05 & 14 Sports). rebuilt engines before, installed my lift and SC but no luck bleeding the brakes on Taco's. Just subsided to the fact and took it to my mechanic both times.
     
  16. Feb 16, 2016 at 5:44 AM
    #16
    NewfoundlandTaco

    NewfoundlandTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Update, bought some 1/4" clear tubing and bled just the front brakes again, couple of significant air bubbles on each side came out. Pedal is perfect again. Thanks for the help people.
     
  17. Feb 16, 2016 at 5:17 PM
    #17
    jeepmor

    jeepmor Well-Known Member

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    I recall tinkering with my brakes for some reason and reading that you want to bleed them with the ignition off so the ABS is not active. This worked well for me. Glad to see your issue was resolved. I don't remember what I was
     

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