Replaced timing components.....still didn't fix it.

Hmmm, Im very confused now. a video will probably help.

 

ahhh money shift..

 

whatever it doesn't matter now anyway. my parents won't let me drive their truck anymore to work so now i can't fix it. but thanks for trying to help.

 

Well i think i might have an idea of what's wrong with my truck. I called our partner dealership that does toyota's....they told me they've had one truck that came in for a noise just like mine, replaced the chains, etc. just like i have. and still didn't fix it. they couldn't figure out what's wrong with it. They also told me that if the split gear on the exhaust cam is removed it will make A LOT of noise. From what i've been told, this split gear is there to dampen noise throughout the cam. Like I said before, using a stethescope with the cover on and the truck running, the noise is loudest right at the cam gears and gets quieter as you go farther back. There is no noise anywhere else, not underneath, not on the timing cover, just right there on those gears. So I as well as one of the guys helping me think I have messed up the spring or something having to do with the split gear. Do any of you guys have any input on this?

 

Everything was installed correctly, the gear I put on there was a waste of money and didn't work haha. We pulled the lifters out and switched the sides they were on. It seemed like it got a tad bit quieter, but I can't say for sure. Still have yet to get a video of the noise, i broke my mom's camera

 

I've noticed a few different things since driving my truck with all the new parts on it. For one, I used to get a very consistent 23mpg........whereas i now get a crummy 20.5.....not a very big difference but just enough to piss me off. And the second...well I took the cams out and switched out the intake/exhaust lifters to opposite sides. The noise sounded somewhat different from before. My questions to you guys are, is there any way to advance/retard timing to fix my mpg problem? or is there any way to fix my mpg problem at all? And second, is it possible for a solid lifter to go bad?

 

I finally have a video! After since breaking my mom's camera and getting the charger back for mine. Here you guys go... Any ideas are always appreciated!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BzM2mFQ85M?fs=1

 

man I have no idea lol. Here's a free bump though.

 

when you took that video i assume your idling is at or around 700rpm right? it sounds a bit fast for that at idling...
mine kinda has the same sound, i just had a valve job and the machinist warned me that one or two of my exhaust valves is at .014 which is the max (allowed is 0.010 to 0.014) and might make it a bit noisy. and it is kind of noisy... but not as loud as yours seems to be.

when you rev it, noise goes away right... so I'm guessing one or two of the valves. since its rhythmic. a long shot is to check your oil pressure. maybe you're not getting enough.

Good Luck!

 

I checked oil pressure a long time ago and it is fine. I checked valve clearance before I did all this, the intake was all at .010 - .011. Some of which were barely out of spec. All of the exhaust valves were at .014. I checked clearance when the motor was somewhat warm. So assuming the expand/contract thing maybe the clearance would be even higher after not running the motor for awhile? I have since rotated the intake/exhaust lifters to the opposite side. I also took the video when it was pretty cold out and it was probably a little above 1 grand. You might have noticed how the noise got louder towards the end of the video. Now imagine how it sound at idle...

 

Amazing ~ it does sound like a diesel that is a first for me...

Where in Va are you? Which dealership?

Toyota OEM chain / guides and tensioner kit or aftermarket?

I also think it is timing assembly related.

My only guess is low oil pressure to the tensioner at idle causing chain slack at idle creating the harmonic vibration noise. Defective tensioner?
I fear that some of the aftermarket tensioners are not posi lock. They are supos-to not retract relax and at low oil psi / idle speed they might relax causing chain slack. I've been out of working on them too long and have yet to get my hands on a 2.7L ~ can you run it with the valve cover off (Yes it will be messy).


Does it ever come and go or is it consistant?

Any oil addatives?

 

98tacoma27, I'm running conventional 5w30. I've tried pretty much everything, from ATF to 15w40.

Whitfield, I'm located in Roanoke. I didn't get OEM because I got a huge discount on a kit from Autoplus. Although if there wasn't a discount the prices would've been the same for the OEM - Autoplus Kits

I don't exactly know what you mean by Posi-lock. Althought the old/new tensioners seemed to be the exact same. I was fooling around with a new one, where it has little teeth on the arm that comes out, and then a claw that is springloaded to clamp down on the teeth....keep the arm from retracting back inside.

The sound is loudest at start up - to idle. Once the truck is warm you can still hear the noise, although it is nowhere near as loud as the video.

 

Here are some suggestions:
1. If it is indeed a mechanical knock like wrist pins or timing chain slap, it should be quieted by using thicker oil. Try using straight 40 or 50 weight oil next oil change. Wrist pin knock is usually louder when you are driving down the road and lift your foot off the gas pedal. If it is wrist pins, the noise will become pronounced.

2. Double check the ignition timing to make sure it is set to factory spec's. Timing that is too advanced can sometimes produce this sound. When the engine is idling, the ECU adjusts the timing to produce a smooth running of the engine. If the timing is off, the ECU would be adjusting it outside of the smooth range.

3. If the knock is caused by pre-detonation it should go away if you are using super high test gasoline. Run the gas tank near empty they try a half tank of super high test gasoline. If the knock goes away, then it is probably an ignition timing issue. For the record, super high test gasoline doesn't burn hotter or anything like that, it just has antiknock additives so it doesn't pre-ignite due to higher compression ratios.

4. Some Toyota engines just plain knock a bit when cold. My Tundra engine tends to do it for a few minutes on a cold morning startup. As soon as the engine temperature gage starts to rise, the knock goes away. It never happens when outside temps are above 40 degrees.

 

@ thombiz

1. I'll try it, although I have a feeling it won't change.

2. I've actually never checked/advanced/retarded the timing, to be honest I don't really know how. Although I think the gear for the balance shaft is a little off from before. I feel like it runs a wee bit rougher from before. Any advice on how to go about this?

3. I will try this, by "super high test gasoline" do you mean like 93 octane?

4. This is a knock like no other...lol really. Even when it's a hot day out. If I haven't been in my truck all day and then go out somewhere, If I let it warm up it still does it.

 

Good advice but I'm not sure about the high vis oil. The newer engines are running super low ring tension, tighter tolerances and hardened bearings. These parts are very oil viscosity sensative (so I was told but my local machinist).

Balance shaft timing is important but this noise was present prior to your repair.

Anyone know if the exhaust cam is hollow or gun drilled? The noise still eludes me.

 

I don't think the balance shaft is off by much at all.

I couldn't tell you about the cam.. This will probably end up turning into a new motor.

 

High test gasoline would be any with an octane rating of 92 or higher. Since I don't have a clue how the spark timing is checked I won't be much help. I didn't get to watch when they corrected my SC-300. The tech who did it was surprised to see it that far out of time.

 

Even with the diesel noise ~ I wouldn't write off and replace the engine on my dime until their was a rod hanging out the side of the block. Toyota engines are good about keeping on getting it even with a little noise / abuse.

Might be time to get the opinion of a 30 year yota tech (or someone with extensive import diagnostic / drivability experience).