Replacing JBL subwoofer? What fits?

This reply applies to my experience with the Toyota/JBL audio system in my 2018 Tacoma Limited.

Like most everyone else, I found the JBL system underwhelming, very underwhelming even though the dealer used it as a selling point, that "this Tacoma comes with the top-of-the-line $2300 JBL audio system." Riiight …

The first thing I did was to replace the stock JBL speakers with PowerBass speakers at the recommendation of Crutchfield in order to be compatible with the JBL 2 ohm system. I found it incredulous that JBL would put their name on those crappy stock speakers. The PowerBass speakers were a definite improvement but not what I was expecting, so sent them back and instead ordered JBL Stadium GTO960C speakers for the front, and JBL Stadium GTO620 speakers for the rear. Even though the Stadium speakers are rated at 2.5 ohms, the small reduction in volume was worthwhile; they sound great, and better than the PowerBass speakers.

I didn't find out until I tore into the fronts that the signal delivered to the front doors is filtered, so connecting the stock front wires to the crossovers that came with the Stadium speakers didn't provide a usable signal to the tweeters; it also short-circuited my plans to leverage the 3-way capability of the crossovers that came with the Stadium speakers to connect the JBL GTO20M mid-range speakers. Instead, and because I did not want to replace the stock tweeters as they seemed decent, I ran a new set of wires from the stock tweeters in the dash down and out to the doors where I connected the Stadium tweeters in parallel, and surface mounted them to the front doors; they fit perfectly and are unobtrusive. However, after further research, I'm a little concerned with the reduction in impedance on the stock amp tweeter channel as a result of having wired the new tweeters in parallel … No issues yet, a week later, after running the system at max volume a good amount of the time but, still a little concerned.

Yesterday, I replaced the stock JBL subwoofer with a Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD2-8 subwoofer, connecting it directly to the stock JBL amp. That was a huge improvement over the stock JBL sub, even without inserting a mono amp in-between. I have a Kicker PXA200.1 amp on order that can deliver 100 watts @ 1 ohm, and the Rockford sub can be wired for 1 ohm, so there's plenty of room for further improvemnt, if needed. However, I'm going to live with the system as is for a week or two to see whether I really need/want to install the Kicker amp.

Overall, the quality of sound with the work done thus far has been a tremendous improvement. I think I could easily live with what I now have for the next several years that I'll own the truck.

 

JohnDeere55, thanks so much for taking the time to respond. I see so many people talking about replacing the JBL system but not much posted on what they did or possible solutions. I will check out the sub swap for sure, the doors speakers still seem a little intimidating for my level . Did your sub swap take any special wiring our did the new speaker click right into the existing harness?

 

I went in all the way as well. I put in an OEM integration processor after the JBL amp to my aftermarket 4x40 amp. I put in separate components in the front and bridged my amp to the factory sub. JBL powers the rear door speakers for rear fill. Thing to know about the JBL amp is that you need a summing converter because it has a separate channel for each speaker - if you're going aftermarket you need to account for that.

What I did learn during the process is that JBL uses a "distributed subwoofer" design where the factory sub and the front door speakers work together to produce sub-bass. To my ears all of this comes together and sounds gear for rear passengers. Less so for front passengers.

To the original question, I bought a Fosgate

$170 P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Punch Series Shallow Mount Car Subwoofer

P3SD2-8. I had to make an adapter to fit the factory location because the basket on the Fosgate was too big. In the end it sounded like crap.

 

Can anyone confirm the maximum top-mount depth that will fit in the stock 2008 JBL sub box? I'm looking to get a Polk DB842SVC which has a measurement of 3.82" in there. I'll be ditching the stock JBL amp and replacing it with a Pioneer GM-D9605, delivering 350w RMS @ 4ohms on the sub channel.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_133907_Polk-Audio-DB842SVC-DB842SVC.html

 

No special wiring ... the stock sub connectors can be used with the Metra 72-9300 harness. In addition to swapping out the sub, I (now) highly recommend installing a mono amp to drive it ...

While connecting the sub to the stock JBL amp provided an improvement, I ended up installing the Kicker PXA200.1 amp configured for 100W at 1 ohm; finished up this morning … It was more involved than simply connecting the sub to the stock JBL amp but, I'm glad I did. I can't believe the difference … It's only an 8" sub and a relatively small amp but, I could not be more pleased. Rather than having the bass setting on the head-end set to max under purely stock conditions, and even at that the bass coming from the stock JBL sub being pitiful, now I have the setting in the middle, with plenty of up-side range when needed. And that's with the 6db bass boost on the Kicker amp disabled !

Also, swapping out the door speakers is not a big job, especially if you forego running wires out to the front doors for a second set of tweeters, as I did. Each front door could be completed in 30mins max; the rears, too, if you go with a speaker for which a stock adapter is available for the doors. Mine took longer because I had to fabricate brackets for the speakers I chose.

 

Hey bud! Just purchased mine today! Do you have a writeup of what is needed to do the install or is it rather straight forward?

 

Ditto for me.

 

The subwoofer is installed behind the back seat in a double cab.

 

After Googling around, this is what I found out about the rear sub/amp situation.

Speaker Specs
--According to Toyota documents this sub is powered by 2 channels. Each one operates at 2 ohms
--Amp supplies a total of 110 watts (according to JBL's website) to both channels so 55 watts RMS at 2 ohms per channel

I'm not 100% positive on this. I do know that the amp has 440w overall, and shares that 440 between 6 speakers and the sub.

 

Glad someone else on the boards confirmed. I read about this on Reddit not too long ago. The guy said it's still working great.

 

I know I am digging deep with this one, but I've searched and searched and I cant find my answer. I too purchased a RF

$170 P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Punch Series Shallow Mount Car Subwoofer

P3SD2-8 and hooked it up to the factory amp/enclosure. Ive installed systems before but everything was aftermarket. Anyways, being that there is a set of wires for each VC on the factory sub, I wired them the same for the RF P3, however it sounds like trash. no volume, no bass. The Pitiful JBL sub sounded better.

When you had the P3 hooked up to the factory JBL amp, how did you wire it? Do you happen to have a diagram or could you make a basic one to help me? Or just talk me through it?

Appreciate it!

 

Did you ever figure it out ? I'm interested in going this route as well. Needing some better bass..

 

I did, I had it wired in reverse polarity (wiring is not my strong suit).

However, it still sounded like crap assuming because the amp just isn't strong enough. So I'm working with a reputable audio shop locally to replace everything but the factory head unit. JL C2 component speakers for the tweeters and front doors and rear doors along with a Tw3 Stealthbox. JL 400/4 amp for the speakers and a 600/1 for the sub, topi]ping it off with some sound deadening.

Going to sound way better than the factory JBL crap.

 

man sounds like i might have to do the same thing.... how much do you think that set is going to cost you (if you don't mind me asking)...

 

I was trying to avoid it but its inevitable.. Not an audio nut like I used to be when I had a 12" W7 in my Civic, but its going to be nice enough for me!

Im getting a really good deal, Cash price is $2000 including install. But I'm a repeat customer, if it wasn't so tedious and I was factory non JBL I would do it myself and save some money. But I want it done right.

 

Considering doing this too... I replaced the stock sub with an 8" P3 but also am only kinda-sorta pleased. How did the wiring work out for the mono amp? Did you use an LC2i or something similar?

 

Can I add a amp to the existing set up just for the sub? I plan on buying a more powerful 8 inch just have not picked one out yet

 

So like daisy chain them?

 

Yes. Out of the JBL amp into the aftermarket amp.

 

Is there a write up for that?
Also trying to figure out what wires go where.