REVIEW 3rd gen suspension on 2nd gen

On my 2013 reg cab 4 wd. Two leafs plus overload.

 

After 15k miles I can say the 3rd gen suspension is a much better ride. My setup is a 2009 TRD Offroad with 2017 TRD bilsteins, multi-leaf pack in rear, and 1/4" spacers in front. I have Brute Force Fab high clearance steel bumpers as well as a Leer 100xl camper shell. The truck sits a little raked and I've got a Smittybilt 12k winch (steel cable) ready to install so I'll probably need some heavier springs up front to level things out. I'm running 3rd gen TRD Offroad 16" wheels and tires as well. I get a slight shimmy from 65-70mph that I think could be solved with a diff drop.

All in all if you want or need new shocks and don't need a lift this is the way to go. If you do plan on adding bumpers and a winch it would be prudent to get adjustable struts and heavier springs at the same time.

 

if you figure this out let me know....i would think you would use 3rd gen...

 

I picked up a pair of 2018 sport suspension for my 2015 sport, I have a pair of 1/4" spacers sitting around that I was going to throw on there but that wont fix the taco lean. I have an additional 1/4" spacer that the guy that gave me the 2018 suspension as well can I stack the drivers side to make it a 1/2" spacer on the drivers side? I have read both yes and no.

Before you answer I don't do any serious offroading just lots of forest service roads and camping and such.

 

Will do and I agree that the 3rd gen 5100s would be the way to go. I’m hoping that a TW member has already done this and can advise.

 

Per Wheelers a 1/2" top plate spacer provides approximately 11/16" lift. Do you have that much difference from the driver side to the passenger side? A 1/4" top plate spacer is the commonly prescribed amount to even out the Taco lean. Also, most will say you need longer top plate studs for a 1/2" top plate spacer- looking at mine with a 1/4" top spacer, I wouldn't feel comfortable trying to do a 1/2" with the OE stud length.

 

How much lean do you have?

Have you read the recently bumped thread discussing replacing the stock rubber body mount bushings with poly?

The thought is the Taco lean is less a suspension issue and more of a body mount issue. It kinda makes sense that the rubber body mounts might also collapse a bit more on the driver’s side.

Measuring from center wheel hub to stock fender edge (as we commonly do) is really representing the sum of the suspension plus the body mount.

I’m putting a low mile 3rd Gen take off Off Road suspension on my 2010 Sport on Friday (no spacers, but I will put the coils on the proper sides). Prior to the job I’ll take both hub to fender and frame bottom to body fold edge measurements and compare them to the after measurements. I’m curious myself to find out the amount of lean due to suspension wear versus body mount bushing wear I can calculate.

 

I have about 1/2" of lean looking at it from the rear by eye have not been on flat ground to measure, I came across someone basically giving away the sport coils from the 18 and figured why not give this a shot after reading this thread.

I was going to put 1/4" spacers on both sides but it would still lean basically the same I assume.

The plan because I had the third 1/4" spacer just sitting around was to possibly stack it on the drivers side... not sure if its a good idea or if I should just leave it off, I have heard you can stack them but people suggest against it.. I cant see how on such a small spacer it would really be unsafe but wasn't sure if would or not.

I have not read the body mount post but I will now.

 

1/2 spacer set was 30 bucks on ebay when i bought it. 30 bucks would give you piece of mind and only one install if something happens.

https://www.ebay.com/i/163168750911...DY5T3MWYhjWlKTIMfk7pEyVrZQEUEQkQaAiLrEALw_wcB

 

I may have asked this already, but can't find it. Are the UCAs different between 2nd/3rd gen and offroad/regular? I have 3rd gen OR take-offs coming in the mail, including UCA, but not sure if I should go to the trouble of UCA replacement. If they are the same, the only reason is if my ball joints were worn. Is there a simple way to know?

 

According to EB Toyota Parts Online (a good online resource for OEM parts), the part #’s for 2010 UCA’s (48610-04021) and 2020 UCA’s is exactly the same.

I’m swapping out mine simply because my current ones have 115k miles on them and I have shiny new ones sitting in a box. The new bushings and ball joints seem worth the effort given I have the truck already up on the rack and apart.

You can check for ball joint wear by looking for movement when rocking the tire while the truck is up on a rack. You can also feel worn ball joints when driving (vibrations, loose steering, clunking noises). The Moog website has a good primer on how to inspect ball joints.

 

Good info, thanks. My truck has 150K, just purchased (used obviously). The UCAs actually look more fresh and clean than they should, so I suspect they are replacements. I'll try to convince myself of ball joint status one way or the other... Replacing the UCAs looks like kind of a pain, so I'd like to avoid it if the ball joints are good.

 

Anyone know left vs right paint codes for 2020?

 

red/green = drivers

 

So I just picked up a set of front and rear shocks and springs from a guy ($100) upgrading his 2020- which was friggin gorgeous... Have a pair of Wheeler's progressive AAL's in the mail and am excited to get my '13 up to speed!

Don't want to derail, but I think others may want to know as well: I've got wheels and tires in the works for the near future, and I'm curious what is the largest/ideal A/T tire size I can get away with no cutting, or minimal rubbing? 1-1.5 inches isn't much of a lift, but even after deep diving the tire rabbit hole, I am admittedly still in the dark about which tires will be the best bang for my buck. Or if this suspension upgrade will net me any sort of benefit on tire size.

 

I suggest getting a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch spacer for the front to go with the 3rd gen shocks. I have 1/2 inch spacer and my brother in law has the 3/4. We both are running 265/70/17 falken wildpeaks with scs stealth 6's.

 

To be clear- you’re referring to a spacer on your suspension, not a wheel spacer for tire clearance?

Those Stealth 6’s look sharp dude.. I’ve always been partial to bullet holes, but damn.

 

I'm second guessing this. Some other threads indicate that the end of the coil should be facing rearward when installed. I have my old ones out and it looks like red/green wants to be on passenger side to make this happen. I have them aligned in this pic so the studs and springs match the ones I pulled off. Driver's is far left and matches the gray/brown:



Should I follow the paint, or the springs?

 

Follow the paint.

 

I wish you hadn't said that.

These two threads indicate to follow the coil, and have pics from a manual to back it up:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/coilover-orientation-which-is-driver-passenger.651705/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...n-trd-off-road-shock-strut-assemblies.618845/