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roof rack ??

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by handy068, Mar 1, 2010.

  1. Mar 1, 2010 at 10:51 PM
    #1
    handy068

    handy068 [OP] Member

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    Alright, so this is my first major post and I was looking for some guidance. I know there are a ton of other roof rack threads on here and I've read through just about all of them. I still have a few questions.

    Feel free to re-direct me or show me the errors of my ways, or please help me out.

    I'm looking to put a roof rack on my 09 double cab and i'm torn between the OEM or a Yakima rack. I had a Yakima on my Altima so i'm familiar with them. (it was actually the only thing i was able to save after I totalled my altima. good thing I did or I never would have got my Taco!) I have most of the rack and was wondering which Fit Kit I would need to make the Yakima work.

    Which option is better though? My main use will be for transporting my mountain bikes. Does anyone know which bike mounts work with the Toyota rack?

    Any input would be great! Pics would be awesome too! Thanks!
     
  2. Mar 2, 2010 at 3:03 AM
    #2
    wing103

    wing103 Well-Known Member

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    I will suggest you get the OEM roof rack.
    It is useful and very nice.
     
  3. Mar 2, 2010 at 10:10 PM
    #3
    handy068

    handy068 [OP] Member

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    thanks! I think thats what I'm leaning towards
     
  4. Mar 2, 2010 at 10:19 PM
    #4
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    i'm not sure about the factory rack. i have a full thule system. i won't try to persuede you to get that over yakima since you already have the cross bars and like the system.... but with yakima and thule, they are now making all of their bike rack "universal" this means that any rack from either company should come with the hardwear to fit yakima "round crossbars" or thule "rectangular crossbars". if you get the factory rack, you will more than likely have to purchase a set of "mighty mounts" from yakima, or the equivilant from thule in order to mount it to the wingshaped crossbars of the factory rack. they go for $40 for a set. so if you want to have 2 bike racks, you'll probably have to add $80 to the price if you go with the factory. i'm just a fan of the thule/yakima racks because they have a higher load capacity.

    if you're just carying bikes, no big deal, but i have put my rack to very good use :) just watch your center of gravity.

    here's a link to the mighty mounts you'll need if you go with the OEM rack and thule/yakima bike carriers http://www.hadley-products.com/catalog/Catalog.aspx?cmd=cat&div=3&cat=52

    hope this helps
    -Colin
     
  5. Mar 3, 2010 at 12:19 AM
    #5
    handy068

    handy068 [OP] Member

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    thanks! that helps out a lot. I have some bike mounts that I made and use with the bed rails for when I'm just doing a quick drive out to the trails or something. Right now I'm getting ready to move and make a pretty good road trip so I want to be able to use my bed for cargo with my cover on it, and still bring my bikes.

    i know in the end both racks serve a purpose, its all just personal preference, but the more info i can get the better.

    Thanks again!
     
  6. Mar 3, 2010 at 6:41 AM
    #6
    austex

    austex Member

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    If you have Yakima Q-Towers, you'll need Q127 (front bar) and Q128 (rear bar) clips ($35/set, $70 total at MSRP). Yakima recommend 58" Load Bars; I know that 48" will NOT work, by a couple inches.
     
  7. Mar 5, 2010 at 11:34 AM
    #7
    flatlander

    flatlander Well-Known Member

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    Hey Colin,

    Do you have more info on the thule system? I have gone through the "fit guide" on their website and it says they do not have anything. I was trying just under the base rack option. I will go back and try others.

    I am guessing that there are some pre-drilled/tapped holes in our roofs that could be used? I thought about just mounting the towers to the roof and then take the crossbars on and off as needed.

    The yak rack option is to use a qtower and some clips that look like they go in the door opening. I don't really like that 'cuz I was worried it would gimp up the door seals and cause more wind noise than there already is.

    Thanks
     
  8. Mar 5, 2010 at 11:39 AM
    #8
    TRICOMA

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    The fit guide on Thule does have it for our trucks. You have to choose Tacoma as standard or the first option...not Quad Carb or Double Cab Tacoma.
     
  9. Mar 5, 2010 at 1:50 PM
    #9
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    i'm actually using the style that goes into the door seal. i can tell you that if that creates any noise, you will not notice it...the rest of the rack makes far more noise. if you get the fairing, there will not be any whistling, just noise from the turbulance it creates.

    is for it messing with the door seal, go into my gallery and look at the 4th picture. you can see that it does press on the seal. BUT, i have had the rack on my truck for 2.5 years, and there are no water leaks or any other negative affects from it. i believe this is the fit kit you need KIT2160 for the clamp style like mine.

    as for mounting it directly to the roof and taking the cross bars off as needed, i would recoment against this... the thule racks are really really stout and sturdy (i'm sure yak racks are too, but i've never owned one). the crossbars are clamped into the towers REALY well. i would not want to try to unclamp and reclamp them with any sort of frequency.
     
  10. Mar 5, 2010 at 7:17 PM
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    flatlander

    flatlander Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info. Do you think the clamp style are pretty easy to get on and off? Initial use for me would be with my canoe. I am planning on getting a goal post that will go in the trailer hitch receiver and then wanted a crossbar over the roof for the canoe to rest on and as a tie down point.

    I have used the foam pads for this before, but they cave in the roof and you have to hope it will pop back out each time. Never have liked that.

    Thanks again
     
  11. Mar 5, 2010 at 8:11 PM
    #11
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    yeah, they're easy. you just turn a knob by hand to tighten it down and then click it down so it won't untwist. then if you want, you can put the lock cylenders in for extra security (i did). if you are going to put it on and take it off every once in a while, remember to make sure the surface that pad goes on is very clean so you don't mess up your paint. i would also make some descrete mark (i used a sharpy) for where the pad goes so you don't have to remeasure every time (thule gives you measurements and a measuring tape so oyu know exactly where the feet should sit).
     
  12. Mar 5, 2010 at 9:28 PM
    #12
    handy068

    handy068 [OP] Member

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    after much thought and debate, I'm going with the Thule system. Thanks for all the advice! I'll get some pictures up as soon as I get back to the States and get it installed!

    These racks are pretty sturdy. I used to carry around 4 mountain bikes on my old Yakima rack.
     
  13. Mar 6, 2010 at 4:39 AM
    #13
    Simon's Mom

    Simon's Mom Wag More Bark Less

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    Great choice, I have had mine on since I bought the truck new 3/07 & it stays on year round. No issues with lots of use. I went with a fairing & used black electrical tape on the lock blanks (no locks installed) & other than very windy days do not notice any noise.
     
  14. Mar 6, 2010 at 4:53 AM
    #14
    flightcancled

    flightcancled Addicted

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    I would say Yakima over Thule. I prefer the Q towers to most other racks and would choose them over Thule for most applications especially if you want the option to quickly remove or install them. Unless you really plan to abuse your rack, and that is coming from someone who uses his frequently well above the factory ratings, there is no reason to worry about durability all the manufacturers have very solid systems. For larger boats, like canoes I would urge you to go with the rack that will have the most contact with the boat and the most grip.
     
  15. Mar 18, 2010 at 5:34 PM
    #15
    dmac11

    dmac11 Well-Known Member

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    Why not use fork mounts on the bed rail of your ,well, bed... Its another option that i know alot of people have had success with. Of coarse this might not be an option if you have things filling the bed or a cover of sorts. I just removed my camper top and instead of upgrading my thule/yakima to fit on the cab I plan on using the bed rail with fork mounts.

    -Good luck
     
  16. Mar 18, 2010 at 5:39 PM
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    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    ^^^ I did that untill i got my tenneau cover. the bed rail bike mounts from toyota actually work really well.

    now i have two bike racks on the roof, and i bolted two fork mounts to the "case" part of my roll-up tenneau
     
  17. Mar 18, 2010 at 5:42 PM
    #17
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    ooh, found a pic :) 4 bikes and room to spare

    [​IMG]
     
  18. May 29, 2010 at 6:46 AM
    #18
    SearchKillEat

    SearchKillEat New Member

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    Does anyone know what parts are needed to just put Yakima Towers into the factory mounted holes in our double cab roof? Id rather do that than stack a yakima system on top of the factory rack, or doing the door mounted yakima option.

    Anyone have any info that would help me do this?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  19. May 29, 2010 at 8:01 AM
    #19
    flightcancled

    flightcancled Addicted

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    Hmm... Having read the install instructions I would say that yes it would be possible if you fabed a braket since the odds of the holes lining up perfectly are slim. In fact I bet that they specifically checked to make sure that they were different so you would "have" to buy their rack.

    If I had to do it I would buy 1/4" sheet steel, and for each cut a piece that fit the factory holes, one that fit the Yakima holes, and two small spacers with holes drilled for the factory bolts. Paint them with spray on bed liner. Assemble with the factory bolts going from top to bottom (through both plates and the spacer between). Then the yakima rack would just bolt on.

    I'd also be sure to put some weather-proofing strips on the bottom of the rig so you don't mess up the paint. Additionally I would buy some 3M heavy duty double-sided tape and reinstall as much of the weather-strip as possible.

    Hope that helps!

    Edit: Welcome to TW!
     
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