Roostfactor’s Equal Length Y-Pipe

I’m already happy!

 

Have the cat shipped to me and I’ll ship it to you.

 

Wow! That's a lot of work to get done in two days!

 

I'm anxious to see what sort of power the full treatment nets him! I'll be following that with interest!

 

Yeah cali folks need to have a cat converter with a CARB EO # stamped onto the cats. If the smog tech can't read it, or it is the incorrect number it is an automatic failure.

 

Hmmmm. Now if only there were time for before and after dyno runs....

 

I wonder how much boost will drop off after opening up the engines flow as much as it is being opened up. Like I said watching this one with great interest! They make me want to buy a lower plenum and modify it myself.

 

Yeah I thought about that too but cant even run maf #s until UCON install.
That means sc will be off to install cam gears so it would be silly not to install injectors, do sc porting, and snout cutting then.

 

My boost is around 10 to 11 with the same mods. There is boost to be had with bypass valve adjustment. They have the stop set up conservatively from the factory.
My datalogs fron a few months ago was 355maf. 355 x 1.18= 419 crank hp.

 

Got off ebay for $55. It needed some cleaning first.


Your boost may not drop at all with all those factory cats in place.
Anyone ever try stamping an EO# on an aftermarket cat?

 

Oh do they now?!

What is your best advice on easily adjusting that valve? It is not very easy to totally access, and from what I have tested with it before it seems to be adjusted correctly, but what seems and what is are always two different things.

 

What are you using to shave off that metal? Dremel?

 

All this work looks super awesome even though I don’t really understand what’s goin on... what part of the motor is this and should I be doing this to mine?? I’m N/A but I got 130k on the clock and wanna keep this thing going for a lot longer

 

Yes, Dremel with flex shaft and various cutting bits.
Then drum sander attachment. I wish I had some small flap wheels for the finishing work because it's quite time consuming "finger banginging" all six ports with Emery cloth.

 

This sits just below your black plastic intake plenum. It does nothing for your reliability, it's just to enhance airflow into the engine.

 

You have literally just convinced me to take this project on. Removing the blower will be no problem, and installing the lower plenum. Easy. The gaskets are rubber I'd imagine right?

I really enjoyed porting my LS2 intake. This should be pretty fun as well.

 

Incase anyone was wondering the differences in the y pipe for thr 4runner and tacoma.

 

Your right it's not the easiest to adjust when the sc is installed but super easy when removed.
In a quiet environment you can open the valve and let it spring shut. LISTEN carefully at the sound it makes when it hits the stop. It will be a distinct metallic "tink" when it hits the stop. Keep doing this while backing off the stop and when the butterfly starts to hit the bore inside it will be more of a dull "thud" sound. Now you've found the full closed position but possible binding could occur. You may feel the initial binding at this point when you move the actuator rod.
Adjust the valve opposite now until there is no binding and you just hear the "tink" sound.
At this point you are allowing the bypass valve to close as much as possible while still hitting the stop and not binding in the bore.
Hope this helps.


I put a little locktite on mine when I was done. That's the pink in the pic.

 

I'm not at the truck to check it out but how easy was it to remove? 2 Allen bolts?

 

Dont remove it! Just adjust it. It's the small Allen bolt where you see the pink locktite in the pic. You can see the actuator stop and the adjuster.