Rotor and Pad replacement

Hey folks,

I'm looking for a solid recommendation on a rotor/pad combo replacement for 1999 Taco 4x4, Xtra cab, v-6.

Found this replacement package on Summit Racing, but couldn't really find any reviews. anyone have experience with Summit racing brand stuff or have other recommendations?

 

I installed Brembo blanks and Hawk LTS pads a while back. So far I love 'em. Huge improvement in stopping compared to OEM.

 

i just ordered the cross drilled and slotted rotors from here http://brakeperformance.com/index.php

and ordered hawk lts pads and SSbraided lines from the groupbuy on here.

spent around $300 for everything with shipping.

 

Brembo blanks and hawk Pads

 

Power Slot. Centric Parts. I would go with either one, if they make a kit for a 99.

 

GEt the drilled and sloted roters from Wheelers Offroad, with the porterfield kevlar pads, thats what I run on my 00.

 

I just use the OEM replacement pads and rotors for my Taco because they're cheap and they do the job well (just like the way I fancy my libations ). Just picked up a cheap set from toyotapartszone.com the other week and I couldn't be more happy!

 

Save yourself some money and go with OEM replacement. They will do the job.

 

i got a good deal on powerslot rotors, so i went with those (i would have gone OEM otherwise) and for pads, i use Hawk LTS. very good brake feel.

 

yeah ..if you live in tuscaloosa it may be adequate. ..but if you live in a city where you have to use your brakes a good bit ..or have larger than stock tires, they just plain suck. i couldn't get 2 months out of my last set of stock rotors/pads before the vibrations started.


the best combo i've run consist of centric premium rotors and ebc yellowstuff pads. i also highly recommend the porterfield racing pads wheelers sells. ..they are on par with the ebc yellows.

 

Great info all around fellas, thanks. I do live in the city (Seattle) and spend a fair amount time in the mountains and plan to pull a trailer this winter, so will look at Brembo's and Centric's and make a decision.

 

Take a look at Power Slot as well.

 

heres how good my brakes work, with 31/12.5/16 SSR Radials. that way 95lbs/pc
http://www.youtube.com/user/Prezidentredz#p/u/9/DN3UsIDuzoo

 

I'm gonna say any base rotor and soft pads...pick your company

Can't speak for Summit

 

somethings to think about.....

drilled and slotted rotors = less material and reduced heat dissipation increasing the chances of warping especially at lower speeds, if you plan on offroading the holes allow mud and sand between the pads and rotor surface scoring the rotor. also the holes and slots also cause pads to wear at a faster rate.

 

thats debatable, as it also allows you to stop in wet situations better, as the holes allow the water to escape., iv been running them now and love it.
just my 2 cents.

 

I completely disagree with using slotted or cross drilled rotors for any application other than show.

Technology has come a long way with brakes and pad material. The development crossing drilling and slotting came about to tackle complex issues on the race track, this has since been overcome in the years of development.

An interview with a representative at Ferrari even admitted the design applied to their cars had nothing to do with performance and was for looks.

But, like PrezidentReds say, this is debatable! There really isn't any solid performance data to say otherwise.

 

exactly...sloted/cross drilled rotors are a waste

we're not driving porsches or ferrari's with ceramic brake setups worth more than our trucks

brembo blanks with hawk all the way

questions is, where's the best place to buy them?

 

not to start trouble, but someone should compare drilled vs reg rotors, in the rain or wet conditions. I can only speak from experience, my slotted and drilled rotors work so much better when its wet compared to the factory TRD stuff I had on the truck.

 

What kind of "rain" conditions, like standing water? I'm having a hard time seeing water being even close to a heated rotor spinning.

My take on the whole rotor thing is this, $100 for basic blanks and I can buy two sets for the price of slotted. Tear them up and swap out when needed.

This keeps me from going to the machine shop half way through a brake change to get them turned and I can have the old ones turned at my convienence.