Rotor stuck on the hub

Luckily , I had a bolt that fit first try. Yes ,I used a 2x4 .I just read directions too fast some times. This turned out to be an interesting thread in my opinion. It's time I start doing more maint. myself and this forum is invaluable.

 

tip for new rotors...paint the inside of the hat with grill paint theyll come off easy at some future date..been doing this for years. no hammer required. and pugga youre right a rubber or plastic hammer is ok

 

although, I've said I would probably put anti seize on the wheel studs, this is the reason I never needed to in my previous vehicles.

 

Interesting... I hadn't thought about that but makes sense!

 

What size bolt to use?

 

The guy in the video is FAST...and I bet he has done this job more than a few times. If I was writing the procedure for it, I would change a few things...use a proper chisel instead of a gasket scraper, more use of a torque wrench on reassembly of bit and pieces and I would personally use quite a bit of anti-sie_e, on the lugs, back of rotor AND the bearing mount into the knuckle.

Dodge was putting steel bearings into aluminium knuckles requiring the ball joints be split and the bearing pressed out of the knuckle.

I don't want to get into the friction modifier on threads debate, but if you use a friction modifier, you also have to modify your torque values. If you are unable to do this, run the studs dry and clean.

And looking at Rock Auto, they have the complete bearing/hub assembly for $36...at that price, why waste the labor to reuse the hub?

Howard

 

I super doubt that. Hubs are about $150. $36 for the bearing assembly is the going rate for the entry level units. I just replaced my bearings and noticed many vendors mislabeling the bearing assemblies as a hub assembly.

As for the seized rotors, wait till you do the rear drums!

I may have missed something with the talk about lubing the wheel studs, but don't they usually get stuck around the hub? When I serviced the rear brakes the drums were very intimate with the hub. I bent a bolt trying to get them out. Had to use 10.9 grade bolts. For the install, I sanded the hub centers and applied a little wheel grease.

 

This looks like a hub to me!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4286619&cc=1447055

and the price is:

PRO Part # 29515040
Front; 6 Lug; 4 Piston Caliper
$36.89

Drums often stick...and since they are cast iron, tapping with a heavy hammer while heating is usually effective. Plus a puller is always an option.

 

The pic on the left is what you get - the bearing assembly sans hub. If you click on the 'next image' links, all you see are pics of the bearing assembly. The pic on the right is for reference. The "Front; 6 Lug; 4 Piston Caliper" description is showing what type of hub the part is for.

I wish the hub was $37! At that price I'd have two new ones by now.

I do envy your 2011 Taco, because I've only seen aftermarket hubs available for 2009.5 and above. Don't know why this is so, but that's what I've discovered.