Rubber plugs for gaps in bed rail available now

nope it filled it completely. i had to remove the bed cap to actually get it to slide in with the tape exposed. when i put the cap back on it squeezes it so its a perfect fit

 

@16TacomaSport thanks for the suggestion, picked those up and will be trying it out.

 

Hey @snak and @16TacomaSport, care to share an update on how these Magzo Adhesive Pads are working in June 2022? I may grab some as well.

 

Hi all,

Thought I would add to this since I cannot for the life of me get my Pace Edwards Ultragroove Tonneau Cover to stop leaking at the front of the bed, it is leaking and pooling on top of the fender wells (right in the inserts for 2x4s). Below I have attached a terrible photo with letter explaining what I have tried and so far to no avail...



A) The header rail leaks underneath - Since this photo I have taken this off the bed and run a line of butyl tape between the bed and header rail, may have helped some.

B) I currently have a piece of thick weather stripping foam that runs across the top of the bed (I have to be able to remove the tonneau canister cover to clear debris from the drains) but I think I will add butyl tape along with the foam.

C) I had weather stripping foam applied here as well, since this photo I filled the gap with butyl tape. Not sure if it has helped.

D) Originally I filled this with outdoor caulk, this did not help. Ended up constantly cleaning water stains from the caulk that never set (was applied a month ago). Removed the caulk completely and replaced with butyl tape folded over and crammed into the crack. I will need to add more butyl tape or resort to the use of black spray foam.

E) Stock bed rail, nothing originally - Since this photo I have also sealed this portion of the bed rail caps with butyl tape.

F) The caulk (pictured) did not work. - I ran the butyl tape I applied at location A (after removing the caulk) all the way across the bed under the header rail and crammed it into the gap F.

I am running out of patience and I want this thing to seal better than it has. I don't know if this bed design by Toyota is to blame or the cover, either way it is super frustrating...

Any input would very thankful and I hope you all find the source and solutions to your leaks!

 

I didn’t have all these headaches and wonder if some of them weren’t introduced by your other solutions. With that said… My first problem was that the header bar was higher than the side rails. I loosened all the attachment bolts and made sure it was at its lowest point, which got it sitting nearly flush. My tonneau came with two different thickness foam pads and I used the thicker spongier one. It pretty much did the job. I got the factory plugs for the gap (header to bed rail) and I haven’t had issues with that area. I still have occasional issues at the tailgate corners, but that has more to do with me parking nose down on a slope and our torrential rain regularity.

 

Interesting, first time dealing with leaks so I wouldn't be surprised if I made things worse .

When taking the header bar off I didn't even think to see if you could raise/lower it. The OEM foam that was under the header bar was completely toast, it was basically just the adhesive. Did you reapply any foam under the header rail? I could see drips at the edge of each end of the header bar, right near the bolts (this was before I added the butyl tape, seems to have stopped now.) I may take another crack at it when the weather improves and try to make the header bar as level as I can.

Would you recommend the OEM foam pads or create your own like some others have? Seems expensive for foam pads... I appreciate the input, thanks!

 

Honestly, I didn’t look. I just loosened, because I was adding the front track. I noticed the bar was higher than the bedrails and noted the holes were slots in the bar. I adjusted to as close to level as I could get (bottomed out on bed panel I guess). I got the fillers, didn’t want to mess with silicone and the whole DIY. Butyl (window adhesive) is great stuff, but is a bit bulky. I also sometimes use electrician’s or AC workman’s DUCT SEAL. (AKA gorilla snot) for gap filler.

 

Been reading this thread and thinking 3M Strip Caulk (part #: 08578) would work perfectly for this problem. Shape a ribbon or bead to fill the gap, press it in and smooth it out with a small flat piece of wood like a Popsicle stick or flat piece of plastic. Rub away any excess away with a wet finger. It never dries out and you can even paint it and it doesn't leave or make a mess. I have put a bead of this stuff around leaky firewall gaskets to stop water leaks and drips.

 

I may see about purchasing a different seal that another user has recommended that worked on their second gen. I see this as a replacement for the foam weather stripping that was supplied on the Tonneau along the header bar.

$29 ESI Super Cap Seal 20 FT (1 1/2" Width x 1/2" Height x 20' Length) EPDM Rubber for Caps 200 lbs or less

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCC0SY6

This looks like it may work with your suggestion of leveling the header bar as well as the OEM header foam caps (I may make my own with some 1/2" foam).

This looks like a better version of the butyl tape I used, as "NoOne" suggested above, I think the butyl tape may be too bulky but it's also been cold here and may be preventing it from being malleable to get into tight places. The 3M caulk tape looks to be better suited for the cracks at the header bar on the bed. Let us know if you end up trying this solution, may be what I try next!

 

Just ordered them, lets see

 

Please update on how well these work. Seems like from this thread there has not been much luck.

 

thi

I don't have a bed cover, but I used the 3M caulk (also known as "dum-dum") to seal a small gap between the shark-fin antenna and the roof. It comes in round strips about a foot long an the diameter of a pencil. You can stretch it out and roll it as thin as you want, flatten out a gob of it, etc. It's like working with bubble gum. The antenna wasn't sitting tight/flush onthe roof sheet metal. It wasn't leaking, but I didn't trust it. I rolled out a thin bead and pressed it gently in place around the antenna and smoothed it out. It's nearly invisible. This stuff sticks to the surfaces, expands and contracts with the weather and stays in place. It doesn't shrink or dry out over time.

 

As soon as I get them I will update