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Running 12V power to the bed

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by scoomas, May 26, 2022.

  1. May 26, 2022 at 4:09 PM
    #1
    scoomas

    scoomas [OP] Well-Known Member

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  2. May 26, 2022 at 4:19 PM
    #2
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    Yes you need a fuse.
    The size will depend on the amount of amperage/current you expect draw.

    There are many charts and calculators online to help you choose the wire size
    Here is just 1 of many - https://faroutride.com/wire-calc/
     
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  3. May 26, 2022 at 4:20 PM
    #3
    Wyckedan

    Wyckedan Well-Known Member

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  4. May 26, 2022 at 4:25 PM
    #4
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    I would also look at your amperage load and make sure you aren’t pulling more amps than the alternator can keep up with. If you do you’ll drain the battery.
     
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  5. May 26, 2022 at 4:28 PM
    #5
    scoomas

    scoomas [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I should probably elaborate. The power in the bed will only be for a USB hub wired inside of an RTT to power a small light strip and cell phone charger. The fuse box under the hood is just to cleanup the wiring for lightbar, ditch lights, and horns. I was thinking 8GA would be fine but wanted to make sure before ordering.
     
  6. May 26, 2022 at 4:34 PM
    #6
    scoomas

    scoomas [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Doesnt the tow package alternator have a slightly higher output? or does it just use a bigger fuse?
     
  7. May 26, 2022 at 4:45 PM
    #7
    Taco 422

    Taco 422 Well-Known Member

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    Slightly more output.

    8ga sounds more than adequate for what you're thinking. Go 6 or 4 if the potential to draw more power someday exists.

    Get copper, not "cca" wire.
     
  8. May 27, 2022 at 5:27 AM
    #8
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    Yes. I think the stock unit puts out 130 amps. Remember that they limit the plug to 400w (33 amps) when in park and only 100w (8 amps) when driving so it won’t tap into the battery.
     
  9. May 27, 2022 at 6:40 AM
    #9
    Hayden334

    Hayden334 Well-Known Member

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    I think you calculated backwards. 400 watts at 120v is 3.3 amps and 0.83 amps at 100 watts.
     
  10. May 27, 2022 at 6:43 AM
    #10
    Cudgel

    Cudgel “Tonka”

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    Calculate the total load and any starting currents. Then measure the distance. Round up to next wire gauge. It will be bigger than you think because it’s DC.
     
  11. May 27, 2022 at 8:47 AM
    #11
    scoomas

    scoomas [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I ordered 25ft of red and 25ft of black 100% copper 6 ga
     
  12. May 27, 2022 at 9:14 AM
    #12
    Taco 422

    Taco 422 Well-Known Member

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    Sheesh (beer) lunch is on you. What's next, a brick of .22 and a crank for the rifle? Mercedes pickup or SUV?

    Remember a good breaker for under the hood, you don't want to cook a long wire run and the big fuses are a PITA if something happens and you're hours away from everything.
     
  13. May 27, 2022 at 9:17 AM
    #13
    scoomas

    scoomas [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lol it wasn't cheap but figured I'd use it elsewhere. I ordered 60a in-line fuses as well. You mean a kill switch or an actual breaker on top of the fuses?
     
  14. May 27, 2022 at 9:20 AM
    #14
    Taco 422

    Taco 422 Well-Known Member

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    An actual breaker, they're quick to trip but easy to reset without looking, digging, or being pissed you can't find the (mini/maxi) ATC fuses you bought specifically for one application.

    They also give you studs allowing you to be a bit more OCD with your install.

    It's $20-40 well worth it for convenience and simplicity.

    Screen Shot 2022-05-27 at 09.19.56.jpg
     
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  15. May 27, 2022 at 9:29 AM
    #15
    scoomas

    scoomas [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So fuck the fuses, just run a breaker? I figured 60A would suffice or would you go bigger?
     
  16. May 27, 2022 at 10:47 AM
    #16
    Taco 422

    Taco 422 Well-Known Member

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    In the truck I used a 60A cause it was sitting in the shop gathering dust. I'm running an 18A on tx radio, maybe 4A of lights and the siren draws 7-9A.

    In the Jeep I used a 120A, but it's still mostly to protect the wire in case of damage in the field/on the trail; also more radios, more lights.

    The upside: you can always trade/swap breakers for something bigger.

    The fuses are decent, I just avoid them to avoid the drive back to anywhere without the fun stuff. You can always fuse the ground side (good ham practice).
     
  17. May 27, 2022 at 5:30 PM
    #17
    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    Agree, close to the battery. That way if road vibrations causes the wire to wear through and short to ground, the breaker will actually work.

    Here's a picture of how NOT to do it, thank you Ford. That’s all the way in the far back right behind the air compressor (that doesn’t have an alternator so it needs to be attached to the vehicle battery). There is a secondary battery in the battery box. Primary battery is under the drivers seat, thank you again ford.

    00ABB769-4048-4BF3-BE8F-1D2D4A31978B.jpg
     
  18. May 27, 2022 at 8:45 PM
    #18
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking of the source side from the alternator at 12V realizing that I wasn’t taking in account the reduction for the transformer. I still could be wrong though.
     

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