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Rust has eaten my exhaust flanges

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TacoNH, Jan 24, 2024.

  1. Jan 24, 2024 at 12:11 PM
    #1
    TacoNH

    TacoNH [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I recently installed a MBPR cat back system because the rust had chewed through my OEM system. Took some PB blaster and brute force but the old system came out and a shiny new one bolted right on. Now a month later, at the exit of the cat (before the Y) the flange has totally disappeared! Not sure if this is fixable with fab work or if I should just bandaid it and save my pennies for new cats. Advice?

    IMG_2637.jpg IMG_2636.jpg
     
  2. Jan 24, 2024 at 12:29 PM
    #2
    TacoTuesday603

    TacoTuesday603 I welded it helded

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    Any exhaust shop should be able to take care of that for not too much.
     
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  3. Jan 24, 2024 at 12:44 PM
    #3
    Revelations

    Revelations Well-Known Member

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    That's crazy looking! Is that JB weld on there? Depending on your financial situation, you could get those two pipes welded together as @TacoTuesday603 mentioned. If you live in an area with lots of rust, get a stainless catback. 316SS is highly corrosion resistant. 409 is more common and cheaper, but less corrosion resistant than 316. 304SS would also be better than 409.
     
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  4. Jan 24, 2024 at 4:39 PM
    #4
    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    What’s that white stuff?

    Getting it weld repaired would be ideal. Or you could do it yourself with an exhaust clamp and a grinder. There's also something called exhaust sealant or something. It’s just rtv but I guess for high temperatures, I got a tube buried in my toolbox somewhere.

    https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-Clam...932&sprefix=exhaust+clamp,aps,165&sr=8-5&th=1
     
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  5. Jan 24, 2024 at 4:43 PM
    #5
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    exhaust shop.

    if the metal is too far gone, then a good material Y pipe and catback, assuming the headers/downpipes are fine
     
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  6. Jan 25, 2024 at 7:06 AM
    #6
    TacoNH

    TacoNH [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've got a stainless MBRP catback on it, what we are looking at is just passed the downpipe after the cat. Unfortunately I will probably need cats ASAP too but I am just trying to buy some time. The other stuff is like JB weld, I was having some hissing/leaking sounds so I was trying to cover all bases and seal up connection points and it's lasted a few years LOL. No real exhaust shops up here doing that kind of work in North Conway but plenty of garages who can do light fab work. I got some split flanges last night at AutoZone and will try my hand at band-aiding it this afternoon but right now it sounds like a dirtbike.
     
  7. Jan 25, 2024 at 7:11 AM
    #7
    Revelations

    Revelations Well-Known Member

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  8. Jan 25, 2024 at 7:23 AM
    #8
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    Welding it together straight through would be a cheap and easy fix. But keeping some kind of bolt-able connection there would allow you to take the exhaust apart in the future.
     
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  9. Jan 25, 2024 at 7:45 AM
    #9
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A Toyota Gigolo

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    Use a clamp like others suggested.

    I would not suggest welding it because the OEM flange joint had a donut seal allowing for some movement. Otherwise you may get rattles or additional rasp.
     
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  10. Jan 25, 2024 at 7:52 AM
    #10
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    True, if there was originally a donut and some spring-bolts there needs to be some flex there
     
  11. Jan 25, 2024 at 9:45 AM
    #11
    TacoNH

    TacoNH [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My thoughts exactly and also why I am seeking professional fab help to put flanges on. I think I've tracked down a friend who welds and has a lift to help.
     
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  12. Jan 26, 2024 at 7:47 AM
    #12
    Black Bean Taco

    Black Bean Taco Well-Known Member

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    What about those flexible exhaust pieces at the auto zone? I have the exact same problem (not as severe. I can at least thread bolts through and tighten it *mostly*). Figured I could cut the exhaust before and after the flange and use an exhaust flex pipe there? How do flex pipes not leak? The bendy type I mean.
     
  13. Jan 26, 2024 at 8:26 AM
    #13
    Revelations

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    Flex pipes use heavy gauge corrugated tubing to flex. The 4.0 exhaust doesn't have any flex sections, so it shouldn't require one to be added. The donut type flange doesn't flex. It's a mechanical connection using spring loaded bolts. The only time the exhaust would need to flex is from deteriorating motor mounts. This is not true of all vehicles, but for the 4.0L Tacoma, there's no flex sections in the oem exhaust. My truck has 155k and still doesn't leak. I did build my own T304SS catback with a donut flange.

    Adding a flex pipe is like adding a band-aid. If your pipes are rusted, it will eventually crumble apart. The ones at your local autoparts stores are likely aluminized mild steel. They will rust apart in a couple years if you live in areas with snow.
     
  14. Jan 26, 2024 at 8:31 AM
    #14
    Black Bean Taco

    Black Bean Taco Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info. My trucks a 2.7 and honestly I’m just trying to fix it enough to pass inspection here in Maine. A few years sounds good to me lol. It’ll need a whole new muffler by then anyways as it’s got a small hole, and so if I still have the truck I’ll just replace both. Much more concerned about finding someone to un-seize my rusted camber bolts so I can finally get it aligned lmao.

    regarding the not needing to flex, is the flange just there for easier assembly/disassembly then? I had been afraid to use straight tubing or clamps because I figured it was there for vibration control/designed to flex ever so slightly?
     
  15. Jan 26, 2024 at 9:04 AM
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    BigCountry762x39

    BigCountry762x39 Well-Known Member

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    I mean 17yo me would have cut off the flanges and ground it up and slipped a pipe over the gap and cranked it down with a couple of the exhaust clamp bolts. and if its only a temp cheap fix you still could do that
     
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  16. Jan 26, 2024 at 9:59 AM
    #16
    Kolter45

    Kolter45 Well-Known Member

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  17. Jan 26, 2024 at 11:03 AM
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    Revelations

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    Yes. The flange is there to separate the cat back from the cat pipe. There's no way you could remove the exhaust from the heads back to the tail pipe as a single unit. At least for the 4.0. It also allows for the cats to be replaced without having to replace the entire exhaust system if necessary.
     
  18. Jan 28, 2024 at 10:00 AM
    #18
    Black Bean Taco

    Black Bean Taco Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha. So chop it, patch it, and re-chop if I ever have to remove the whole system. I think I’ve found my solution. Thanks for the info! Like I said, I had assumed it was supposed to slightly flex so I was afraid to patch it with solid tubing
     
  19. Jan 28, 2024 at 10:34 AM
    #19
    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    It’s more like chop it, reflange both pieces, unbolt if you need to remove it.

    Another option is to use V bands. They sell all different sizes.

    One issue you might have is if the existing pipes are severely worn as in thin as a soda can, welding can be difficult to impossible.

    The example below, the weld on flanges are awful short. Even what summit is showing seem short but not as bad.

    https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-...74&mcid=87d383e64c05333b855a34fcfa565a7c&th=1

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-694225
     
  20. Jan 28, 2024 at 10:45 AM
    #20
    908tacoma

    908tacoma Well-Known Member

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