Rust Prevention/Treatment Consolidation Thread

I'm liking your contraception though. Probably hits all the knooks and crannies better then just the sprinkler thats for sure.

 

TacoGlenn, Nice work - Courtesy bump.

 

I have a question for the rust pros here.. I got a sweet skid plate today from Bullet Proof Fab. It was suggested I Line-X it to avoid the rust issues we have in MN, even though it's powder coated. I understand this is not exactly cheap, although I can't imagine it's too bad since it's a smaller area to cover.

So I'm wondering if a decent alternative would be to use Rustoluem Undercoating?

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/coatings/professional-undercoating

Definitely cheaper but will it hold up OK? Anyone have experience with using this stuff?

 

Hey MT, many studies and reviews I've seen suggest avoiding rubberized type coatings like the one above. The complaint is that rubberized crcs eventually crack and allow water to seep in behind and encourage festering rust- all unseen. An oil-based crc will more likely not crack and will allow easy inspection.

Having said that, if you want to apply a crc only to the skid plate, the issues with rubberized crcs might not be as acute.

 

For something like skid plates why not go to a shop that sells professionsl coatings and get something like an industrial alkyd rust-inhibitive primer? If its good enough for things like bridges and other exterior structural steel fabrications its got to be much better than anything sold in an aerosol can at Lowes or Home Depot. Brush it on then apply a compatible topcoat in whatever color you want. Something like DTM alkyd wouldn't even need a topcoat.
http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26029:product-6796
And there are probably other industrial products that are even better than the alkyds.

 

This is all great advice, much appreciated. I think I'll avoid the Rustoleum product, some of the reviews weren't that great. I did find something called POR-15 that people have had success with.

There's a Sherwin Williams in town so I'll ask them about the DTM Alkyd, that might be the stuff actually.

Thanks again for the help!

 

True that "rubberized" asphalt undercoatings can dry up and crack, but the real issue isn't so much that this can happen, it is what *leads* to this happening. These kinds of coatings can actually be incredibly EFFECTIVE, as long as they are properly maintained. Maintenance, of course, is something that most people keep putting off until it never actually happens.

The maintenance regimen that I apply;
ODD numbered years: hose it all down with oil. Lot of different options here, like motor oil, chainsaw bar oil. Chainsaw bar oil is really good -- waxy and thick, but hard to spray.
EVEN numbered years: apply a new layer of rubberized asphalt undercoat to all accessible surfaces of frame. Apply oil to difficult to access surfaces, such as inside frame rails.

The oil keeps the asphalt soft, fills in any cracks or other voids in the surface, AND it repels water.


Another... issue, that can happen with the asphalt undercoatings; unfortunately, a lot of people put off rust protection until AFTER it is already exhibiting signs of rust. Covering over existing rust with asphalt undercoatings is very very bad. It can never seal so well that it will prevent the rust from expanding. The rusted spots are also softer, and more easily broken when pressured or splashed. This leads to water getting into spots that are already rusted, and making it harder for the water to dry off. This causes the rust to actually accelerate.

For asphalt undercoating to be effective, it has to be applied to the frame when it is NEW, and it MUST be maintained perpetually.

 

Hey tgear, thanks for the input! This is exactly the type of discussion needed for various products- I wasn't aware of this maintenance aspect with rubberized coatings.

 

I have a question about the Krown rust proofing, although it applies to any product that sprays stuff into the doors. There are speakers in there. It's a bit difficult to believe that spaying some sort of oily stuff, no matter how thin it may be, won't have a negative effect on the speaker cones in the doors. I've watched the application videos, and there they are spraying it into the doors, and I have talked with the Krown dealer closest to me (about 50 miles-says he's never heard of it being an issue or anyone raising it). I realize that the spray wand is pointed toward the outer metal door panel during application, but one of the selling points is that the stuff vaporizes and gets everywhere. Great for your electrical connections, etc. Hence one would assume it will also get on the speaker cones. Will it do damage? Are they enclosed in some way? I've looked at lots of rust protection threads and I haven't seen this concern come up, but maybe I missed it. Any relevant info appreciated.

 

Probably a valid concern; for what its worth, I sprayed Fluid Film in the inside 1/3 bottoms of my doors and I haven't noticed any diminution of sound quality in my (stock) speakers.

see:
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...6-2014/46424-rust-proofing-door-speakers.html

 

I sprayed and covered my entire Frame,under carriage,suspension , floor boards everything under neath except the Exhaust system and more ! I Used AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector, 2-3 full cans every year since new in Oct 2012. I Have a 2013 Tacoma PreRunner DCLB 60,000 miles !Bought Brand new on Lot with 7 miles only !

 

Thanks for the link. Looks like it's not an issue if properly applied.

 

There are so many rust threads, it would be nice to have it consolidated. I posted the following on one of the other threads:

I'm curious if anyone here has tried Waxoyl ? Coming from a LR Defender 90, which are destined to be rust buckets if not treated, this is the number one product most owners use.

No affiliation but Rovers North carries it here in the US. The company says one application for the life of the vehicle. They have one product that is used for cavities, and I'm guessing it would be the ticket for the frame cavities.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rust-prevention-treatment-consolidation-thread.355928/

 

Any recent pics of your Tacoma's under carriage? I have a couple cans of Amsoil HDMP laying around & curious how it's looking.

 

Well, mine is looking like crap again after the winter. The Corroseal didn't do very well and some rust is showing through again. Granted I've had the bed off the entire time.

I'm going to go the Por-15 route and then paint with flat black paint and then put the bed on to protect it from UV.

 

think im gonna be using por-15 soon. has anyone had a bad experience with it?. how difficut was it to remove to whole bed?

 

Fairly straightforward to remove bed.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anyone-with-experience-in-removing-2nd-gen-6ʻ-truck-bed.422798/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bed-removal.415381/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-truck-bed.347646/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-bed-removal.305854/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-truck-bed.262852/

maybe could employ similar method as below for bed removal:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-bed-cap-without-a-hoist.269921/

I also saw a TW member who removed the bed single-handed by using a hoist under a large tree limb, but I can't relocate the photo.

Regarding POR15:

http://www.por15.com/ (company site)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS0...2-20111224.PDF (MSDS)
http://www.autos.com/auto-repair/rus...d-instructions (general “encapsulator” discussion)
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...int-use-2.html (vintage mustang forum)
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...-coatings.html (vintage mustang forum)
http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45404-G...eywords=por-15 (Amazon reviews)
http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-shor...years-use.html (off road forum)
http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/...hp?product=299 (offroaders forum)
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/por-...et-119795.html (hotrodders forum)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/...ulator-811759/ (jeep forum)
http://onemanandhismustang.wordpress...or15-rust-kit/ (pic heavy application tips and rating)
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/prod...bullet.207248/ (ih8mud forum)
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=196793 (Bronco forum)
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...e-rough-review (Mazda forum)
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345222 (Chevelle forum)
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13935 (Chevelle forum)
http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/after...ng-review.html (3rdgen forum)
http://www.drjing.com/mini/blog/sidebyside.htm (nice hands-on experiment)
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=216070 (pistonheads forum)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/93...st-bullet.html
(Ford truck forum)
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ment-anyone-ever-use-this.html#post1546006792 (forum)
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ment-anyone-ever-use-this.html#post1546069431 (forum)
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-general-discussion/2734531-rust-undercoating-and-por.html (forum)
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/frame-restoration-did-it-myself.368199/ (nice pic heavy TW member effort)

 

Guys i used eastwood rust coverter , only on rust areas, let dry 2 -3 days then chassis saver.

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