Rust Prevention

I've found that the best way to prevent rust is to hose down the truck with a hose each time you drive in the salt and snow. While I realize this isnt possible for everyone, I've found it works better than any other method I've tried throughout the years...A quick rinse at the self carwash seems to work great for me...

 

that's generall what i try to do, ..but at times you have to go for a while w/out, during an extended freeze or snow/ice event..

 

I wouldn't recommend putting paint or rustproofing on your exhaust...heat + flammable substances = a very bad/dangerous idea! Here's what I did to help keep rust off my 08' Taco, purchased used a year ago. At the time the frame was in '8 of 10' condition, nothing but minor surface rust spots here and there.

1.) Wire-brushed, then hosed, then wiped down the frame, differential and inside rear chrome bumper with Simple Green and rags;
2.) Applied rust converter (from Wally-World) to all above areas showing any surface rust (NOT the exhaust or any 'hot' areas, and not the universals...affects their balance I understand), including inside rear chrome bumper;
3.) Primed (paintbush and spray can) all reachable parts of the frame/differential with Rustoleum gray primer (easy to see);
4.) Painted (brush and spray) all gray-primed areas with Rustoleum black paint.
5.) Applied (brush) a mixture of bar and chain oil, melted paraffin and mineral spirits to all painted surfaces and inside the rear bumper. Swabbed the mixture inside the front boxed section of the frame using a 6' length of electrical wire and a rag soaked in the mixture.
6.) Lined the inside of the wheelwells with carpet runner so that the tires won't throw slush and salt all over the frame and undercarriage (tires are the biggest source of 'slung' salt and water for the frame);

Alot of work but most of it need be done only once. I'll hose down the undercarriage once/month during winters and hose down then re-apply the rustproof mixture to the frame and inside bumper each late spring. Shouldn't take more than a half-day/year for the annual refreshers.

The above work was done about eight months ago and the undercarriage looks like the day I did the work. I'm hoping to get 10 years out of this truck before rust overcomes it (a 13 year total lifespan...that's a long life in this salt-heavy area). We'll see how it does.

BTW, from what I've read about various DIY rustproofing mixtures two that DON'T work very well are old motor oil and WD-40. The former holds/attracts water and the latter is not a rust preventer, it's primarily a solvent. Would be too bad to spend the time but then have it all wash off or not work well. Bar and chain oil (chainsaw oil) and automatic transmission fluid are two common materials that adhere well and contain rust inhibitors. Adding mineral spirits helps thin the materials to let them 'creep' and helps if/when spraying it on. Using paraffin with the materials helps the job last longer and helps repel water. Tip: Best to use hi-temp parrafin rather than the standard kind used for cooking/canning...the latter melts too easily in hot weather...messy in the driveway!

Good luck with your truck.

 

Amsoil metal protector works for me. Apply every year.

 

Ziebart was ok but overpriced and scratched up my car. They are only as good as the installer.

Best from my list so far is Waxoyl. Downright good stuff when applied properly.

Many Iowa farmers swear by the Fluid Film. I was going to try it this year but the closest John Deere dealer was over an hour away and closed when I was off work.

Brushing chainsaw oil on is sticky business. Melting a couple of candles and mixing it in a garden sprayer is MUCH easier.

 

..other than the zeibart, sounds like these other applications might have to be redone every time you spray the undercarriage after a storm?

 

Nope the stuff is hard to get off with a pressure washer. Have a look on line if it's only half as good as they say it's well worth it. It does not dry out has no solvents. It will not convert rust but it will stop it.

 

maineah is right about the online reviews and my personal experience on the farm with random farm tools gives a thumbs up as well. My only hesitation with the Fluid Film is that I do not want it loosening up things that should remain tight. The only other problem would be cost. 1/2 quart of chainsaw oil and two candles runs real cheap. If money was no object then it would be Waxoyl or Fluid Film.

 

I don't know there is enough in a one gallon to do 3 trucks that works out to a little over $10 a truck. I pay $32 a gallon and spray ever thing on the farm with it, it even works on snow blowers I would have thought the snow would just take it right off but it doesn't. Years ago here in Maine they outlawed the use of motor oil on cars and dirt roads because of the toxins and it's probably the same around the country so the use of the non toxic lanolin oil in it's self has merit after all 10 billion sheep can't be wrong.

 

I will be Ziebarting my frame next week... I'll let you know how the end results turn out. About a $500 dollar job but worth the expense in my opinion given what salt does to your truck on these NE roads.

 

Hey man, you still using this combo? Did you ever try the Fluid Film or Waxoyl?

The previous issues that Toyota had with the 1st Gen Tacomas and a couple of threads that highlight 2nd Gen Tacos with frame rust issues has really made me want to start taking care of my frame right away. Never worried about this on my other vehicles so I am learning. Any insight into you smart guys that have been doing for a while is much appreciated.

 

very very good idea.

here's one of the ones you are talking about. seems it may be needed in here for all the people saying let them rust. prevention is key. once it starts it's never good.

this is a 05'

 

Thats ok if the car wash doesn't recycle the water ?

 

Finally got a good pic up... Ziebart... includes drilling rocker panels and spraying inside with film and "acid washing" the frame prior to application.

 

POR-15 is expensive but it's magic if you wanted something clean. Im on the side of motor oil spraying once a year, I load it up in an HVLP sprayer and go to town

 

Don't sand your frame!
Don't wire brush your frame!
Don't wire wheel your frame!
Don't paint your frame!
And don't put POR-15 on your frame.

Leave the original coating on it.

For rust prevention oil spray it, Krown is said to be the best, but I go to a Canadian franchise called Oil Guard,

That POR-15 is pretty hard paint, the water gets behind that stuff and it bubbles similar to auto paint.

Oil undercoating seeps into cracks and displaces moisture, especially on sections of our frame that has doubler plates, (sandwiches). Oil undercoating also penetrates the electrical system keeping electrical gremlins away.

OIL SPRAY YOUR TRUCK

 

Save the POR-15 for bush bars, step bars, and utility trailers, not your frame.

 

I have to disagree. I've used Recycled Motor oil on my 98 4Runner since I bought it used in 2004. The truck still looks mint, and has a healthy coating of motor oil applied to the undercarriage, inner doors, inner fenders, and rocker panels every fall. I also use WD40 on all my chrome pieces, and on the door edges....

Absolutely no issues doing this, and can honestly say, after driving it during every winter over the course of the last 8 years, my 4Runner is no worse for wear. I also NEVER wash the truck, the entire winter... and only do a thorough clean in the spring. When the truck is cleaned, I apply a coat of NuFinish Polish to all of the body in the spring and early fall. The truck stays clean all summer.... but is cruddy all winter long.

Many rust prevention companies will tell you that Motor oil is not a good choice, as it can cause damage to all of your rubbers, and encapsulates water..... but I'm living proof that it is a farce. Motor oil and WD40 works.

 

It's also illegal/toxic and used oil has a lot more bad stuff in it then just oil if your going to spray oil at least don't be cheap and use new oil a gallon is enough for 3 trucks. 40 years ago here in the north east they sprayed the bottoms of new cars with red lead wonder how many guys had health problems later in life.

 

I swear by POR 15 on other trucks.
The key is to follow the instructions.