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Second gen rear shock install...

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Aug 29, 2010.

  1. Mar 23, 2013 at 6:08 PM
    #41
    FTB530

    FTB530 Well-Known Member

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    I wonder how the stealerships do it. They must have a special tool.
     
  2. Mar 23, 2013 at 6:12 PM
    #42
    Tacoyota

    Tacoyota senile member

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    You can buy an extension, use open end/socket and adjust the math for leverage. I wonder if a socketed allen on the torque wrench/open end on the nut could accurately do 15ft/lb.
     
  3. Apr 18, 2013 at 10:59 AM
    #43
    esse10

    esse10 Well-Known Member

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    Use a crows foot wrench attached to the torque wrench on the top nut and hold the shaft with either the allen key wrench or a big vicegrip plairs. ta ta guys..

    crows.jpg
     
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  4. Jul 27, 2013 at 1:16 PM
    #44
    4WDTrout

    4WDTrout Well-Known Member

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    This is becoming more difficult than I anticipated...

    [​IMG]

    Dang thing nut wont break free!
    Ideas?
     
  5. Jul 5, 2014 at 1:45 PM
    #45
    Sharx

    Sharx New Member

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    Just finished 5100 install on rear of my '13 2wd PR v6 Access and it was pretty easy after following your instructions. Only trouble I had was getting new bottom bushing into bracket. Had to jimmie it and use screwdriver through bushing to line up. Took a small Vice grip on flat sided top of shift and small Crescent/14mm wrench on nut. Wasn't hard to remove either original. If Bilstein would have included both parts bags so I didn't have to go down to ACE, I would have had it even easier. I am guessing I saved at least a C- note by DIY. Completely unloaded rear (BAK F-1 inc.), test drove it and it's a whole lot better than stock, especially on body lean and small bumps that would bounce OEM'S off the ground. Do this for (my Amazon deal 86 ea.) you'll be glad ya did.
     
  6. Feb 3, 2015 at 8:48 PM
    #46
    blazer69

    blazer69 Well-Known Member

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    hey, trying to remove and install one 5100 that blew.

    I was trying to remove the top bolt with the 5mm Allen key and having troubles getting it loosened off. the bolt where alen key goes is stripped and I can get the shock off.

    any suggestions on how to fix?
     
  7. Feb 3, 2015 at 9:12 PM
    #47
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Try to hold it with vice grips
     
  8. Feb 10, 2015 at 4:02 PM
    #48
    texvet61

    texvet61 Well-Known Member

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    I am installing my rear Blister 5100's on my 2009 Tacoma;
    I know installing rear shocks isn't rocket science, but I got my 5100's today and I'd be lying if I didn't say I am a little confused, to say the least, the stock bilstein 4600's had the usual; steel washer-bushing-steel washer-frame-nut... the 5100's came with two bushings, 2 heavy steel washers and and what looks to be an aluminum washer, no instructions, and although I have searched I can't find a detailed install schematic that shows placement of all bushings/washers. My Truck is in the garage on my hi-lift so if I could get a confirmation ASAP that would be great, otherwise I will go with my gut... which is
    silver steel washer-bushing-frame-bushing-black steel washer-aluminum washer-nut
    am I correct?
     
  9. Feb 10, 2015 at 4:05 PM
    #49
    texvet61

    texvet61 Well-Known Member

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    sorry, read the thread too fast, found what I was looking for
     
  10. Dec 15, 2015 at 7:23 PM
    #50
    ultrabattler

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    would I need an alignment after installing struts to the rear? since its a solid axle
     
  11. Dec 28, 2015 at 7:01 AM
    #51
    TSmalls89

    TSmalls89 Technologically Advanced Redneck

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    So... I went and installed new rear shocks. Passenger side bolt has a lot more of the top bolt showing after I have tightened everything down, much more than the driver's side..... is that normal??
     
  12. Apr 14, 2016 at 6:58 PM
    #52
    Tac11

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    Guys how much will rear 5100 give you? I got my front bils and ome in but now my back drools a bit and want an upper. How difficult is the rear compared to the front. Thanks
     
  13. Jun 20, 2016 at 9:20 PM
    #53
    davids540i

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    This is exactly the problem I had. I stopped because at that point I didn't have enough time to get "creative" in removing it and then potentially having the similar problem re-installing it.

    I've read references to a special tool that allows you to slip a very thin socket over this flat spot so you can get the nut off those last remaining threads, but I cannot find any specifics. All threads I read on this makes it sound like removing the rear top shock mount is as easy as opening your gas filler cap or, people are taking out hack saws, sawzalls, torches, and grinders.

    I figure there has to be a "right", clean way to do this. How would a dealership or shop do this when/if they had to remove a non-defective shock as part of another service and re-install the same shock without damage?

    Any experienced dealer mechanics or someone else who's been able to do this in a non-destructive way able to chime in on this?

    Any advice and tips would be appreciated! :)
     
  14. Jun 21, 2016 at 5:06 AM
    #54
    esse10

    esse10 Well-Known Member

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  15. Oct 31, 2016 at 12:13 PM
    #55
    timbobzimbob

    timbobzimbob Well-Known Member

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    Just did this today, passengers side went fine but driver's side OEM shock did not have the little tip on the end of the stud nor did it have a spot for an allen key in it... I tried digging out the top to see if it was filled with crap but it was solid rusty metal o_O

    Ended up sawzalling the damn nut off, which worked great :D




    had to compress it at least an inch to get it to fit in though, was a pain in the ass
     
  16. Nov 2, 2016 at 7:36 AM
    #56
    esse10

    esse10 Well-Known Member

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    Those rear ones are suppose to be the easier of the 4. Wait till you do the front, now those can be a little bit of PIA.
     
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  17. Nov 12, 2016 at 6:28 PM
    #57
    rhino883

    rhino883 Well-Known Member

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    Just a heads up from my experience installing new Bilstein 5100's in the rear. This was my first time changing shocks and I was surprised at how easy it was.
    - I have an SR5 4WD and I believe there were base model, original shocks in the rear with almost 110K on them.
    - The shocks I replaced had the small tip on the top end, that some use a 5mm wrench or vice grips on. Since I couldn't find a 5mm wrench anywhere, I used good 'ol vice grips. Well...after a moderate amount of pressure, the tip snapped right off. This happened on both sides, even with more caution used on the 2nd try. I simply cranked those vice grips on the thread that was left and was able to break the nut free. I had a sawzall on the ground right next to me, but never needed it. In fact, I was able to loosen the nut off toward the end without holding the shaft at all.
    - I had to compress the shock about 1.5-2 inches to get it in the bottom bracket. Compressing the shock was very easy, especially given the warnings given by others. Use a small amount of dish detergent on the bottom bushings to help them slide in.
    - The top end of my original shock was 14mm, not the 17mm as mentioned previously.
    - As suggested from a previous post, I used a crows foot attached to a torque wrench to get 15ft lbs on the top end.

    Only went for a short ride, but ride seems to be a bit better. Handling, specifically turning seemed to be much better.
     
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  18. Nov 12, 2016 at 6:50 PM
    #58
    Markcal

    Markcal Well-Known Member

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    Would there be a write up on TW on how to install front shocks (Bilstein 5100)?
     
  19. Nov 12, 2016 at 7:11 PM
    #59
    rhino883

    rhino883 Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure there is, but I did find a very amateur (I'm an an amateur so insult not intended) video on YouTube. Do a search on there. It will at least show you what to expect.
     
  20. Nov 12, 2016 at 7:14 PM
    #60
    Markcal

    Markcal Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I will need an alignment after, so even though I can't afford it I may pay someone and attempt the rear shocks myself.
     
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