Secondary Air Injection System REMOVAL!!! DIY (SAIS)

Awesome thanks for the quick reply, unfortunately no windows laptop at this time and I don't think it would be worth shelling out for the comp and software, I'm gonna call a local shop here in San Antonio tomorrow and see if we can do something as you suggested, that and I do have a few mods on the truck such as k&n and a exhaust so hopefully I'll get some improvement

 

It will be highly unlikely a shop will do this for you. Good luck though.

 

For sure I'm hoping he replies so I can also get a few other things tuned at the same time for my current set up, but I'll let you know! Always awesome to have some back up

 

So I went to do this and the bottom nut to the header wouldn't budge passenger side. Did pb blaster, torch, got nowhere. A 10mm and 9mm was also too big for it. Tried hammering in an 8mm lol An suggestions?

 

Thank you so much for this it's getting book marked!

 

Is there a way in HP tuner to ''disable'' all the SAIS fault code instead of 1st and 2nd?

 

I'm not quite following what you are trying to say with 1st and 2nd?

HPT can remove the fault codes and triggers for those codes. That is up to the tuner and if you request that to be done. The tuner can remove just those fault codes and do nothing else; or they can do a complete engine and transmission (auto) tune along with removing the fault codes. Technically, you can remove almost any fault code trigger through HPT. But that is not recommended since you want to be notified when there is an issue with something else.

 

I'm in the middle of doing a head gasket on my 2012 4.0. Still tearing it down and wondering about the tube that runs from the pump, behind the engine, to the driver's side exhaust manifold. Am I seeing this correctly that this tube is mounted to the coolant bypass thing on the back side of the engine? I dont plan on doing this "delete mod" at this time, just wondering WTF that tube is mounted to and what else needs to come off.

 

It's really not that hard to remove, there's a nut on the back that's a bit of a pain to pull, but aside from the intake, I didn't removed anything else to get it all off.

 

Thanks for the reply, my reason for asking was, I can tell that metal tube is connected to something behind the engine. I can't really see much behind there and I didn't want to unbolt the water bypass thing and push it back off the head just to find out that tube is still connected to the head by an unseen bracket somewhere.

But... if I'm right that the metal air injection tube is hanging from a bracket that's connected to the water bypass thing, then the whole unit SHOULD just push back and allow me to get the heads out.

 

This little guy, behind the engine. It's just a bracket.
From the OP post:

 

Hey man thanks for the write up. My truck just threw the dreaded p2442 code.

It just so happened that I was having the truck tuned that weekend so I took the opportunity to have the tuner remove this. What he did was remove the CEL minder but of course that didn't work as now the truck will still go into limp mode on Cold start, it just won't flash the CEL.

He's doing research on his side to figure out what to remove or what to disable, but do you think you could tell me what options he should be looking for on his programming? I'd appreciate any help with this!

I attempted to unplug everything after he did the tuning and it threw it in limp mode so I knew this wouldn't work but I gave him the benefit of the doubt. I'm kinda stuck with him now trying to figure it out though.

 

HewittTech solution works:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-switching-valve.381997/page-57#post-27923902

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.780849/

Is it cheap? No.

Is it effective? Very.

 

No. I bought the kit. Less than a year later the codes came back. They sent out a free replacement unit. Still thew a P2442. Today it threw a P106B...

 

@TacoFergie, @zippsub9 Any chance you guys happen to have the parts #'s for the studs and nuts located in the OP's pics? I wanted to buy the 4 OEM replacements of each before I install the Hewitt Tech kit. The studs and nuts on the driver's side and the lower one on the passenger side are pretty bad. The torx head of the stud is an E6.
I found Toyota (90126-A0019 Bolt, Stud) and (Toyota 90178-A0062 Nut, FLANGE), but would like confirmation before ordering from my local dealer. Good diagrams are hard to come by from most dealers online. Toyota Parts Deal was the closest I could get, they had all the parts listed under the Manifold Air Injection System fit category after putting my VIN# in.

Anyone else having the part #'s, chiming in would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, CY

**UPDATE** Part#'s above are for the Studs (x2) and Nuts (x2) to mount the entire Air Switching Assembly.

 

Why are you wanting to replace the nuts and studs? All the Hewitt kit does is replace the air pump. The valves have to stay in place or you're spending another $250 a pop for their simulated sensors.
If I did it again, as I've said before, I'd just get the HP Tuner and turn off the SAIS reporting and delete the whole system. The heaviest part is the valve bank, and without spending another $500 with Hewitt, you have to keep it.

 

I bought the whole kit including the simulated sensors, so I can do the full delete(removal) of the SAIS system. The lower studs and nuts where the block off plates go need to be replaced as they are rusted pretty bad. I don't want to start the job until I have what I need. I have the nut part# 90178-A0023 from the exploded pic below, but the stud part# is MIA. I ordered an OEM stud that may be the one, but will post when it is confirmed. Ultimately going to check thread pitch, length, and replace with stainless steel hardware. If anyone needed the gasket, that part# is 17376-50010.

**UPDATE** The correct OEM Toyota Stud part# is 90126-A0014 and comes up as
Bolt, Stud(For Oil Strainer). The Stud has an E6 torx head and is an M6 x 1.00 thread. The corresponding OEM Toyota nut part# is 90178-A0023 and comes up as Nut, Wire Adjusting and is a 10mm. You will need 4 of each for the block off plates.

I have found Stainless Steel hardware that I will be using to replace the stock stud/nut combo. The closest to Toyota spec stud I could find was 18-8 Stainless, had no torx head, so a stud install/removal tool will be needed. The nut is a 316 Stainless Steel serrated flange locknut.

Mcmaster dot com

18-8 Stainless Steel Vibration-Resistant Stud, Threaded on Both Ends, M6 x 1mm Thread, 27 mm Long Part# 92386A914. Quantity of 4 for the block off plates.

316 Stainless Steel Serrated Flange Locknut, Super-Corrosion-Resistant, M6 x 1mm Thread, Pack of 25. Part# 92773A101 Quantity of 4 for the block off plates.

 

After reading all this my mind is a fog ! I'm 81 & no longer wrenching ex gear head 40s - 70 Street Rodder but this is way above my pay grade . At this point I need a Tacoma Wizard in the E. WA. / N. Idaho area (been looking) or sell this 2013 I bought with no history with 87K ! Any suggestions greatly appreciated SAIS not a problem yet that I know of , just want to strip it out for my "off road" (I don't live in a test area ) ! Thank so much !

 

If you want the easiest route that's plug n play, buy the Kit and Sim Sensors from Hewitt. If you can work a computer or know someone who can, get the HP tuner and have them turn off the SAIS reporting in the software. Then you can remove the entire system either way you go. The Hewitt kit will include the plates to cover the holes in the headers, but if you go HP Tuner, you'll have to find the part number in this thread for the plates. If you go Hewitt and don't buy the sensors, the whole valve assembly will have to stay in place.

 

You have to do the free emissions class now to unlock that.