securing the OEM bed mat... is this ok?

So my OEM bed mat was delivered yesterday and fits like a glove. I wanted to secure it because if you really wanted some quick cash, it takes 5seconds to lift the mat and sell them on craigslist.


So I used the two factory bed bolts to secure the mat (see picture with red arrows). I basically drilled two small holes on the mat, unbolted the bed bolts and put it back together. ive seen a mod here when they used one of the top drain holes but didn't want to mess with those.


So my question is, anything wrong with how I secured it? by the way my bed has no mods done, no extra railing etc. the picture I used is just a google pic I found

thanks

 

IMO, that's a little overboard and makes cleaning debris under the bed mat more difficult. It may also tear and crinkle when you torque down the mat where the bolt holes are. I would be more worry about the tailgate being stolen.

 

I don't think I would use the bed bolts like this. I would make separate holes at the cab end. You could use smaller bolts and washers so that the hole you drill is smaller. The bed bolts have the job of securing the bed and its load, and I wouldn't want something squishy in there.

This way you can roll it up also if you need, some heavy things are nice to slide in on the slick bed.

BTW I'm in Austin too

 

tailgate mod already done. did the washer and hose clamp mod

 

Yeah just secure it at the cab end seems like the best idea to me. Roll it up for the reason above, as well as hosing or sweeping out debris. It would be easier for a thief to rip it out with just one end secured, but if they want it, ripping two ends won't bother them.

 

I used the front bolts but added the Dodge d-rings with some wide washers beneath the mat to come level with the bed ribs. The bolts are plenty long enough and there's no way in hell someone is just going to tear my mat out.

 

I used small screws, one for each corner, just to hold it in place. Don't care about the small hole in the composite bed, its all scratched up anyways.

Got a DeeZee mate from HS and paid like $75 if I remember correctly. Thick as shit and holding up great, but I had to cut the back end to make it fit; DeeZee only makes it for the long beds???? Anyhow this is another option for those interested in bed mats since the Toyota ones are so spendy.

 

You can get the Toyota mat for $84/free shipping and maybe a coupon to reduce that from Camelback.

 

If you do that you risk the bed being loose.

 

Like other members I just drilled a hole through where the middle drain hole is and added a bolt. Easy enough.

I agree with everyone else saying don't use the bed bolts

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/16869-quick-bed-mat-mod-pics.html

 

Mr. Gadget in defense of ShrimpTaco the bed has a total of 6 heavy duty bed bolts. its not like the two bottom ones were completely ignored. so all 6 bed bolts are still in place.

but thanks for the advices.

 

THere is a reason they are there.
If you add the rubber and do not bring them to the spec torque then you risk them backing out over time, and flex.
Where the real problem comes in is over time and if you tow from the hitch you can get a lot more frame flex and twist that can cause stress cracks around other points in the bed.
Your bed is part of the strength in the back of the truck, all those bolts in place are there to make the bed and frame work to control and hold the load.

Not going to say you can not use those bolts or should not, just that there is a correct way and a half ass way from an engineering standpoint.

That said, one easy way that will pay off down the road and make it easy to clean under it.
They make a rubber nut that expands in place, you could drill a 5/16" hole and place come in say 4-6 locations, it will hold the mat flat and in place.
You can use any number of screws or hex head, cap bolts that will set flat and you will not really see.

The other way if you really want to use the bolts that are there, you can get some heavy duty bushings that will fit the bolt but be smaller then the head by 1/4" or a little more.
You punch the holes in your rubber mat and then reinstall the bolts, using the spacer or bushings, they will let you torque it down to the factory spec, yet your mat is held in place and not buckled down under the force.
So that way your mat will lay flat and the bolt head will look like it is just floating on the mat.

So it is up to you but rubber does not make a good thing to clamp like that under the torque, force and loads it will see over the years. Being on the end or back they see more twist and force then the center ones.

So that is my point.


http://www.grainger.com/product/3ZL...3ZLV7&ef_id=UbkDIwAABZTRx3EX:20140207000622:s

http://www.grainger.com/product/TAM...tPath=Grainger&xi=xi&s_pp=false&sgAttributes=

They make steel washers that are like this for spacers.
Or you can get structural washers to fit.
http://www.grainger.com/product/MICRO-PLASTICS-Shoulder-Washer-4DCF2?s_pp=false&sgAttributes=

 

What is the need to bolt the mat down? Mine doesn't slide around or move in any way...

 

Mine does not move at all on the two trucks I own.

Some just like to make a problem from nothing at all.

 

To discourage sticky fingers

 

Never had a mat stolen...or a tailgate...or whatever

 

yup, not all of us live in a rich neiborhood.

unfortunately, these days any low life will take anything they can get to make a quick buck

so instead of some punk just carrying the mat away with no fight, I was thinking give it a fight or two. if he wants to cut the mat around the bolts, then I feel better knowing that he worked for it a little and that the mat doesn't look as good as before

 

I have mine bolted down in the front center with an extra D-ring. Pain in the ass for cleaning under it that's for sure. I can still flap it back through.