Serpentine Belt & Pulley Job - Which Pulleys Should I Be Replacing?

First time I've had the serpentine belt off on my 2008 tacoma and want opinions on which pulleys need replacement. Fairly certain pulley in Video D needs replacing but what about the others? Also, is this an OEM part I should get or is aftermarket just as good?

Video A

Video B

Video C

Video D

Diagram with pulley locations noted.

 

A is on it’s way out.
B is just about done for
And D is dead.

If you are on a budget, you might get by with just doing B and D.

 

No budget issues, my main concern is ordering the right parts and getting them ASAP (this is my daily).

Was able to find the three pulleys - I've seen videos where they arrive but without replacement hardware. I'm assuming the best action is to go to the hardware store and match them up as it's likely best to replace that as well (washer, etc.,)

 

One is a double roller bearing.
They aren’t “common” but can be bought.
You might get lucky and find them locally.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...arings-in-the-idler-tensioner-pulleys.480961/

 

I replaced all three pulleys and used my old hardware. Not sure the condition of how your hardware will be, but mine were in really good shape still. Put a couple thousand miles on them since and had no issues BUT if you decide the hardware needs replacing then by all means go with your gut!

 

And remember, the tensioner pulley is LEFT hand thread.
You have 2 options, replace the pulley, or replace the whole tensioner.

The whole tensioner assemblies is a bear to replace. You have remove the alternator, the AC compressor and the compressor mount. Might as well pull the front left wheel off, you’ll be going through there to to some of the bolts.

 

So is it the more noise they make when you spin them the indicating factor of needing replacement? That’s what I got from watching his videos and your assessment.
Will be doing this job myself in the coming weeks, thanks!

 

I'm looking at

$73 Gates 38411 DriveAlign Automatic Belt Drive Tensioner

purchasing this for the tensioner pulley but plan on just swapping the pulley... Any reason why a person would replace the whole tensioner/unit when it's just the pulley that needs attention?

 

No point in buying that whole thing, just get this

$40 5203-2NSL Nachi Double Row Angular Contact Bearing 17x40x17.5 Sealed

nachi bearing and swap it out onto the same original pulley. You only need to change the whole tensioner when the spring is bad on your old one and no longer holds tension in the proper range.

 

Basically, yes.

 

Just did this a few weeks ago to my ‘06 PreRunner 4.0. This is what I used for the parts and torque specs. Got my parts off Amazon. I also replaced the alternator a few days later, it was making a ticking noise. That was an Autozone free replacement part.

I put the front up on jack stands, pulled the skid plate, and did it all from underneath. Now super quiet.

After I got it all off, the pully on the tensioner looks a lot like the 36174. If I was to do this again, I would just order a second 36174 pully for the tensioner and use the stock bolt and washer to install.

 

Here is when I did them all as while in there why not get them all done.
Used OEM parts. Post 7 gives part #s.
Idler pulleys, tensioner, belt, and alternator replacement | Tacoma World

You can look at McGeorge Toyota online and see all parts you need/want.
Genuine Toyota Parts | McGeorge Toyota near Hanover

Or find local dealers for pickup if you want faster parts.
Toyota Parts and Accessories - Official Online Store

The reason to do full tensioner assembly is spring gets weak and allows belt slip on full throttle (hear or smell when it happens).
Have fun.

 

This. As long as your tensioner is working fine, replacing just the bearing is pretty easy. Just be careful when pressing in the new one that you don’t put pressure on any part of it except the outside housing and you’ll be fine. The old bearing works great as an installation tool.

 

If your pulleys are in good shape, I have a thread on how to replace the bearings in the pulleys, including the tensioner. Do not use pulley # 36174 to replace the tensioner pulley. There is a reason it’s crossed out in the diagram above - the pulley will fit, but, because the bearing is too wide, the pulley bolt loses about half thread engagement. Down the road, you may strip the threads out of the timing cover. It is not worth the risk.

To test the bearings, rotate the pulley by hand. It should spin smoothly and freely. And there should be no side-to-side nor fore/aft movement, except for about 1mm fore/aft movement on the PS pulley. That appears to be normal or it could just be mine as it has always had that play, as have most of my other vehicles. The water pump bearing may be difficult to test as you would have to remove the fan clutch to isolate any play.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...arings-in-the-idler-tensioner-pulleys.480961/

 

Hey DoubleB! Thanks for the references.

Quick question: Did you install the pulleys exactly how they came, or did you use additional washers anywhere? I see some YouTube channels using additional washers on the 36173 (in-between the bolt and the race/insert that fits in the bearing). Not sure if it makes a big difference but curious if there is a best practice.. Or if it yeetz it skeetz.

Cheers!

 

Thanks for that. I'd already ordered the pulley items but will definitely consider this for the next time!

Question: I just replaced idler number one with the Gates pulley. Does it look like the inner diameter is spinning crooked? https://imgur.com/ymd5XQT

Seems most noticeable around 7 o'clock area.

 

Looks fine to me

 

I see it also. Looks like the inside diameter of the stamped metal pulley shell is slightly out of round. The outside diameter of the shell does look properly round, that's easy to see in the bright reflection off the outer shell face. Very unlikely that it's the bearing itself.

Any amount of "out of round" does cause some vibration & uneven loading on the bearing, the question is how much, and for how long the bearing can tolerate it.

That might be the difference between a Toyota OEM part & the Gates replacement -- maybe the Gates pulley lasts 50 or 80K miles while the more perfectly-round Toyota original part goes to 120K or 150K?

 

Agreed, that looks like a manufacturing defect on the face. Looking at the belt surface of the pulley using the timing cover as a focus point, the pulley spins true. It will be ok. If the oem pulleys look good, you can replace the bearings and use them as backup.

 

Any advice on whether or not I should add a washer on the

$40 Gates 36173 DriveAlign Belt Drive Idler/Tensioner Pulley

36173 like the one used with OEM, or just install with the small insert that it comes with?