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Shaking in 2nd gear...?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by STLharry, Aug 23, 2009.

  1. Aug 23, 2009 at 12:59 PM
    #1
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

    Joined:
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    Harry
    VT
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    Yeti Rescue Package with 240k miles
    '95-'97 camouflaged, ARB bull bar, RAT Products skid plate kit, sliders, Green Mountain Customs rear tube bumper and overland bed rack, King coilovers with Icon neoprene covers, defenestrated sway bar, OME Rear Suspension: CS046R leafs + AAL/5125 shocks/NWOR greasable hardware/U-bolt flip kit; S13WL Tundra calipers/pads/rotors, IPF H4 lenses and bulbs, IPF 968 DCG 100W lights, clapped out CB radio, Aussie-spec FJ60 inclinometer, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Superwinch S9000 with 12V Guy clock switch, 4' Hi-Lift, deckplate mod/grey wire mod/dif breather extensions, Duratrac tires, Sockmonkey bedside decals, boat cupholder, Dakine bike pad
    So yesterday I put in the OME rear suspension, finished the bumper, and greased the driveshaft u-joints. When I drove home from my friends garage at about 8.30, I noticed that when i was accelerating in 2nd gear from about 23-30mph, the whole truck vibrates pretty strongly. I have left it in 1st until about 25 and put it in 3rd at 25 and the vibration doesnt happen, so it has to do with 2nd gear.
    The truck also vibrates when i depress the clutch when downshifting to 2nd.

    Anyone know why this is happening? I was going to change the fluid today, tomorrow, or tuesday in the tranny, transfer case, and both diffs anyways, so will it help?

    ideas are much appreciated.
     
  2. Aug 24, 2009 at 12:02 AM
    #2
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Doug
    Lakeside, Ca / Gardnerville, Nevada
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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    Did you mark the original location of your U-joints in relation to the yoke on either the DIFF or the tail shaft of your trans ? , just the very nature of right hand torque (direction of drive shaft spin) will cause a U-joint to "seat" itself in the yoke flanges although slight, over time it could make a difference if not bolted back in its original location, vibration at different RPM's & road speed could happen, have your yokes checked for warping around the flanges , in any case I'd say you have a drive line alignment problem.
     
  3. Aug 25, 2009 at 5:54 AM
    #3
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Harry
    VT
    Vehicle:
    Yeti Rescue Package with 240k miles
    '95-'97 camouflaged, ARB bull bar, RAT Products skid plate kit, sliders, Green Mountain Customs rear tube bumper and overland bed rack, King coilovers with Icon neoprene covers, defenestrated sway bar, OME Rear Suspension: CS046R leafs + AAL/5125 shocks/NWOR greasable hardware/U-bolt flip kit; S13WL Tundra calipers/pads/rotors, IPF H4 lenses and bulbs, IPF 968 DCG 100W lights, clapped out CB radio, Aussie-spec FJ60 inclinometer, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Superwinch S9000 with 12V Guy clock switch, 4' Hi-Lift, deckplate mod/grey wire mod/dif breather extensions, Duratrac tires, Sockmonkey bedside decals, boat cupholder, Dakine bike pad
    yeah a friend and i think it is the angle of the driveshaft to the pinion. it seens to be a little steep, so we may try to put wedges under the back of the leaf spring packs to tilt the driveshaft up and decrease the angle.
    i will check drive line alignment as well though.
     
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