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Shift Actuator problems...already seen the FJ threads...

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by gjbonner, Jun 5, 2011.

  1. Jun 5, 2011 at 9:10 PM
    #1
    gjbonner

    gjbonner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i am already aware of the transfer case swap remedy. my situation is this.

    i turned the switch to 4 hi, light blinks but does NOT go steady and engage even after driving back and forward, neutral, clutch in etc... i turn switch back to 2 hi. light goes out. i then turn switch back to 4hi, light blinks but does not engage. i turn switch back to 2 hi and light does not go off and continues to blink. i am in 2 wheel drive though and it is blinking as if it is trying to come out of 4hi... i have unhooked my battery and left it off for a while hoping this would reset something. no luck.

    I have seen in the thread that they spoke of getting tired of cleaning the actuator when it got dirty and didnt work...can i do this? what parts are getting cleaned? is there any special instructions when pulling it off t-case and off the rod that extends out of the t-case? i seen it had teeth and i wondered if a guy had to turn the actuator as he pulled it off and if there was a certain way it had to go back on as well. the fluid line is below the rod so i would think taking it off while t-case is installed would be no prob.


    any info would be helpful.
     
  2. Jun 6, 2011 at 5:51 AM
    #2
    gjbonner

    gjbonner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    hmmmm...anyone?
     
  3. Jun 6, 2011 at 6:49 AM
    #3
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    I moded 1999 Taco so much it had turned to Land Cruiser
    First, when you remove actuator from transfer case you better know how to put back correctly because its in specific position and won;t lock in any other.
    now to troubleshooting.
    lift the front of the truck, choked the rear wheels and engage 4Hi, with out engine running. Listen to noise from TC and front add. if noise is present but light is flashing, try rotating front wheel first then front drive shaft. If truck engages then switch from 4hi to 2HI and make sure it disengages.

    As you point out rod is below oil line which means if it is not used when there is moisture in he air it will start rusting and getting stuck. Those electric motors rarely fail its the mechanism that gets stuck.
     
  4. Jun 6, 2011 at 8:13 AM
    #4
    Brandon H

    Brandon H Well-Known Member

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    It's your front ADD diff actuator on your front diff. When you switch it to 4hi, the computer sends a signal to engage the front add. That's when the blinking light goes fro blinking to solid. The only thing the transfer case actuator does is switch it from 4hi to 4lo. Technically, the truck is always in 4hi (both driveshafts spinning). Just when the switch is in 2hi, the front diff is disconnected. The front actuator probably has water or mud in it. Check it out. Hope this helps.
     
  5. Jun 6, 2011 at 9:18 AM
    #5
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    My first question would be how do you know whether it's the T-Case or the front diff actuator giving you the problem when switching to 4Hi? When you flip the switch to 4Hi, it's a 2 step process. First, the transfer case engages which causes your left front wheel to join in (3 wheel drive at this point while the light is flashing). Then the front diff actuator engages the front passenger wheel and the light then quits flashing. But what I don't know is if the light flashes if the transfer case doesn't engage. So like Anthony said, you should at least make sure both are getting the proper signals.
     
  6. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:11 PM
    #6
    gjbonner

    gjbonner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    hey thanks for the replies guys...

    Update is that in the morning when i went to go to work the light was not on anymore. who knows? it wasnt muddy or anything but it could have gotten wet.
    i think im going to jack the truck up on jack stands and do some trouble shooting. I think i'll see if only the drivers side is engaged to identify or eliminate the add. I'm pretty sure it is the actuator though. i talked with wyatt and he told me how to take it off and clean it. he did say that when the blinking wouldnt stop it was usually internal to the actuator and you had to take it apart to clean it.

    I'll get back to this thread with results when i finally get the time to troubleshoot a little.

    i do have a question though. if the green light blinking is telling us that the actuator is trying to move positions but cant yet, then what tells us when the add cant?will the actuator ever engage the front drive shaft & give us the solid green light while the add is not engaged? you would think there would be some kind of notification or fault if the add didnt work...
     
  7. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:56 PM
    #7
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    The green light will blink until the front diff ADD engages. And since that won't engage until the transfer case engages, then the light will blink in both cases. Unfortunately, you have to manually test them to know which one's the problem (or check to see if the driver's front wheel is engaging).
     
  8. Jun 7, 2011 at 9:40 PM
    #8
    gjbonner

    gjbonner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks. i will definitely check this out. i did just have my4.88 gears put in but im not sure how much he would have really done that could have affected the ADD. i had used 4wd twice that day before this happened so i know it was working...
     
  9. Jul 1, 2011 at 10:33 PM
    #9
    gjbonner

    gjbonner [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Crazy enough they said the problem was my front diff actuator. got it replaced today and all is well...i'm still on the hunt for an FJ 6speed t-case though. my springs come in next week so once that happens i'll update my build thread with pics.
     
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