Shop vs DIY Stereo Install

I’m about to update my stereo in my Gen 3. Got a quote from a good shop in my area using Focal components, Audison 5 channel amp, and a JL Stealthbox.

However for around the same $$ I can do it myself with the items below and get a new head unit out of it.

Any opinions on the equipment below? I think the amp is sized appropriately for the speakers I chose. Would the setup below require new speaker wire to the doors, or would the factory wiring be thick enough?

Head unit: https://trailgridpro.com/products/alpine-ilx-f509-plug-play-bundle-16-23-tacoma

Amp:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136HD9005/JL-Audio-HD-Series-HD900-5.html?tp=115

Front Components:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091165AS/Focal-Performance-165AS.html

Rear Doors:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

Sub:

1: JL Stealthbox with 10TW3

2: Skar Audio Box with Sundown SML10

 

Even good shops are 1 installer away from disaster. Its hit and miss gamble game. I'd do it myself if and when ever possible.

My son swears by a shop hes used for years. (supported ha!) He recently brought them a $4k job. They desided to put Johnny crankster on it. He quite probably owned only a 1/2 inch drill bit and tape. It was a sleepless disaster for every one but the poor defiled car is still seeing a counselor

 

I’m confident in the shops work. They actually do all the installs for the Pittsburgh Steelers. I guess my main question is the components I picked if I decide to do it myself. I’ve never installed a system myself, but I am mechanically inclined. Finding an amp that matched the Wattage of the speakers is where I got a little bogged down.

 

If your shop quote didn’t make you say “what the hell?! Are you serious?!” Then it’s not a good shop. These days, you have 3 options
1) top tier, excellent quality, $$$$
2)pump out stereos and basic subs, focus on quantity. They don’t know good techniques for multi-channel amps or how to correctly install speakers. They don’t have time to research the vehicle and do the best job
3) garbage. Will cut your harness and wreck your ECU and then pretend they don’t know why the truck doesn’t work right. Thousands of dollars down the drain when it’s all said and done.

start at post 184 for a look at the average shop

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...llation-complete.658383/page-10#post-29850690

 

I do all of mine DIY. Its more satisfying knowing I had hands on it, and its a guarantee that it was installed with an custom made harness and not t-taps.

Use the money you saved on the installer and buy some sound mat and foam for the doors.

 

Installing the head unit seams pretty straightforward for the unit I picked from TrailGridPro. It comes with the wire harnesses already soldered in place, and is basically plug and play.

where I’m stumped is if I need to run new speaker wire from the amp to each dash tweeter, front doors, and rear doors. Or if I just tap into the factory speaker wires behind the head unit.

 

This was my quote from the shop

 

Wow I guess $4k may be common for these shysters to rip off @. Thats what my son got hit at. (Post #2)

 

There is soooo much to audio and everyone's ears are different. But to me, based on the equipment listed that system is not worth anywhere near $4600. It will be an upgrade, but not a 4 stacks upgrade.

I'm a little over $5000 into mine with Focal Flax components, JL VXi amp, JL Stealthbox, a Pioneer WC6600NEX (w/ wireless AA), and a fully deadened cabin with Second Skin deadening & thermal insulation. Factoring in labor though, that price isn't terrible as I spent a good 50+ hours over 3 weeks redoing my system (which at their rate comes out to $4500 in labor itself). That included building an amp rack, running all new wiring from KnuKonceptz and hiding everything and keeping all factory panels. Visually, nothing really looks modified either which is my style. I have a serious problem with spending money on labor for something I can do better myself though.

I love Focal, but not necessarily those quoted Focals as they're moreso designed to be pnp with a factory setup. You can amp them but the clarity just isn't there compared to their higher end offerings. IMO, if you're amping it would sound much better if you swapped those speakers with Kappas, and it would be a little less than you're paying now. I really just don't like paying for labor, and if you're already considering doing it yourself, just do it yourself.

The Focal DFS you linked are really good (I had them in my tC) but you'd be happier getting the Slate Fiber's and make sure you match the rear speaker product line to the front to keep the tones all the same. Some don't like having rear speakers at all in this truck, but I always love quality rear fill with separate tweeters. Due to the design of this truck and the rear speaker locations though, expect to run the rears much higher than the fonts to keep the sound levels balanced.

Link to my audio setup on here if interested: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/let’s-see-some-subwoofer-setups.571122/page-38#post-28568827

 

A key thing to know is that your speakers and amp wattage don't have to match. Most speakers can handle quite a bit more than most amps can output. As long as your speakers can at least handle the amp's output, you're good. My front speakers are rated for 150w rms, but my amp only outputs 50w rms. And these are both red label from kicker, designed to work well together.

The speakers you picked are from a great brand. Aluminum and titanium tweeters were never my thing. Vey bright for my ears. Some love it, some hate it. I'm sure the $400 Focals do better than the $100 Kickers many people go for, so take that opinion with a grain of salt. Ideally, you can go to a shop and listen to a few sets to see what your ears like. I think $400 on fronts is a bit steep for the average user and the average system build. I like to find a good value in the price/performance ratio. Kicker KS are my go-to. Have them in my truck (and wife's Pilot, and have installed them in LOTS of vehicles) and they hit a sweet spot for me when on sale. My ears enjoy them. Your ears may like something else. Decide if you like a smooth silk tweeter vs a bright plastic tweeter vs a very bright aluminum/titanium tweeter. Kicker KS, Memphis PRX, Alpine S, all popular options at or under $200 for the 6x9 components.

The amp you picked is overkill for a normal build. It's normal to want the most power you can get, but it's almost always necessary. Like I mentioned, I'm running 50w RMS x 4 and can make my ears HURT if I want to.
Kenwood Excelon amps, Rockford prime and punch series, JL, then step into the AudioControl and Audison territory, rockford T series, higher end JL. I wouldn't personally spend more than $800 on the amp unless you're getting one with a DSP. There are just so many good options these days at a good value. Heck, even the Audison amp the shop quoted you is like $550.
Decide what sub you want, and make sure your amp can power it.

The JL Stealthbox is nice, but very pricey. If you're doing the work for the rest of the install, I'd save a bunch of money and get a different sub. May need to remove a plastic panel behind the seat, but thats super easy.

As for the quote they gave you, it's actually not unreasonable. $90/hr for labor is pretty good if they do good work. Not a huge markup on the product either. Still too rich for my blood, considering the work isn't super hard if you have a garage and can spare the truck being taken apart for the weekend.

 

Your install is exactly what I’m after. Will PM you in a bit with a bunch of questions. Beautiful job.

 

If you're ok spending some money, that's a great build to follow! If you're going to do it, do it right!

 

I'm automatically suspicious of any 'professional' who uses the word dampening

 

I would do it myself like I have for the last 30+ years over multiple vehicles. Started when I was 16 installing a system in my ‘81 Toyota pickup, and recently installed a system in my sons 2000 Tundra last Thanksgiving.

Take your time, watch lots of videos, and buy a pack of panel tools and clips.

 

curious hill to die on critiquing a job position that generally doesn't require any college, doesn't pay more than $15-25/hr typically, usually lacks benefits packages, and has extremely lax certification standards( i once asked my local shops about MECA certification, and they all laughed).

while not correct, substituting 'damping' for 'dampening' entered common language around the 90's at the latest, so is very well accepted as a colloquial term.

alternately, i've known 'professionals' in other tightly regulated industries that require near-decades of training, college classes, as well as annual certifications, making more in minutes than i do in a year, and speak far worse. one opened email communications with 'bro', when discussing renovations on his 3rd private vacation property.

 

Yeah dampening, damping, deadening, panel covering, it’s all interchangeable.
Butt connectors, barrel connectors, butt splices, all the same thing.

 

I’ve decided I’m going to tackle this project myself. With all of your help and guidance I think I can get it done, and get a better system for the money than going with the local installer.

I’ve made some changes to the components. I’m going to order the following tonight:

Head Unit:
Alpine Halo ILX 509

https://trailgridpro.com/products/alpine-ilx-f509-plug-play-bundle-16-23-tacoma

Amp:
Audison SR600.5

https://audison.com/product/sr-5-600/

Front Components:
Focal Flax Evo PS165 FE

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091PS165FE/Focal-PS-165-FE.html

Rear Doors:
Focal Flax Evo PC 165 FE

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091PC165FE/Focal-PC-165-FE.html

JL Audio 10TW3 StealthBox

Audison got back to me. I can run 4 channels at 4ohm to power the front components and rear doors, and run the sub channel at 2ohm to put 550 watts to the sub box.

now I need to figure out what power wiring kit I need, gauge speaker wire I need to run, which sound deadening material I need, if I need RCA cables for the preamp lines?

any guidance guys? Will this level of sound system require a larger alternator, capacitor, or bigger battery?

 

4awg will be more than adequate.

No need for alternator or anything like that.

You will need 3 sets of 2ch RCA’s, 16ft worked well for me. A few companies also make a 6ch rca that puts it all in one bundle. LOVE them. T-Spec makes a good one.

If you’re running all new speaker wire, 16awg is ideal. Then some 12awg for the sub.

 

biggest thing for power wiring is going to be getting pure copper vs CCA wiring. i like knuconcepts, they stay close to the real wire gauge, while other more mainstream audio parts suppliers start shrinking the internal copper content while using more of the outer jacket as a filler to meet a lower price point.

there's other brands i'm sure others will chime in about other options as well. i don't have an issue with any particular brand, just something to be aware of that some brands do.

 

Another great point!
Kolossus Fleks is some of the best power wire out there. They don’t make a 4awg kit so you’d need the tools to make your own power cables. Nothing crazy, but more cost to consider.
Crutchfield has an in-house kit, the CK4, that seems to be a good choice.