Show off your aux fuse panels.

I hate when that happens lol

 

Going to wire up some stuff to it in the next few days

 

Nice mount! I like the holes for the wires, very clean. Watch out for sharp edges though.

 

Thanks! I file them down a little. Already cut myself. haha
A member here designed the mount and Pelfreybuilt makes them.

 

cool!

 

Yesterday got home from work early and decided to tackle this job. Not as clean as some other people's but I was happy with the way that it turned out. Very glad to get rid of the rats nest!! By the way I know I need to wash my engine bay haha. Went from this rats nest



TO THIS

 

I see you already purchased the rubber grommets for the battery cables. What's your long term solution for the other holes? Mine are still abrasive after filing.

 

Dude! I think you get the "most improved" award! What a difference! It's so nice to have some organization in your accessory wiring. Some of the stuff I've seen could easily pass as factory oem! When I did my wiring I went nuts with wire loom. Looks professional and adds a bit of protection.

 

Haha thanks bro! I really appreciate the kind words. I totally agree with you about the organization. Everything needs its place! Totally adds protection too like you said!

 

I'll probably just get some vacuum tubes, cut into small pieces, stick them in the holes and just feed wires through them. Should be good for a while. As long as they stay put and don't move, the wires will be OK

 

Basetaco, yes a main breaker or fuse between the battery and sub panel.

On my truck I dont expect to ever draw more than 500 watts at a time, so i get away with 4ga main wire and a 50 amp fuse between battery and sub-panel.

Do have a list of accy's you are sure you want? Another list of accy's that would be nice?

 

Because you can just flip the breaker and cut power of all of your aftermarket devices.

 

You'll need an inline fuse or circuit breaker on your main power line to the distribution block. It's your choice as to whether you want the fuse or the circuit breaker.

If you overload the system the circuit breaker will trip. At that point you can remove/repair the faulty accessory and reset the breaker.

I also run a breaker so I can kill power to my NSA when not in use.

 

So, would you add a fuse panel to your NSA, or does it act as one? Inquiring minds with money and little electrical knowledge need to know

Edit: I think you just answered that above as I was typing...

 

The same principle can be applied to a vehicle. Also some boxes are rated for 100 amps as an example yet the total devices may add up to over 100 amps. Some people do this knowing they won't ever have EVERY accessory running at the same time, but the main breaker will ensure you don't go over the boxes rating by accident.

 

That is true, the fuses will protect the distribution panel if the accessory shorts out. What you're forgetting is the battery/alternator to distribution panel. If your battery shorts out you'll blow up your distribution block. Hopefully the fuses blow and you save your accessories. You also run the fuse/circuit breaker to limit the amps feeding into the block.

Yup, you need to protect any distribution panel (including the NSA), with a fuse or circuit breaker. I run a 150 amp breaker, which is less than what the NSA can handle, just to be on the safe side.

 

I thought about skipping the breaker as well. Realistically it would probably be some extraordinary circumstance that would trip it. But at about $30 it's well worth the insurance to protect all your hard work in wiring.

 

Question... So last night I ended up ordering a Blue Sea fuse box 12 and a circuit breaker. I just realized that the circuit breaker that I ordered is 120A not 100A. If I go ahead and install the 120A breaker will I have a problem? I know that the block has an max amperage at 100A... The only things that I currently plan on wiring into the box will be a 50" bar (300w), bed lights (2 x 18w), and camp lights (3 x 30w). Even running all of those at the same time I'll only be pulling 35.5A

If its going to be any sort of problem, then when it gets here in a few days I'll just return it and order a 100A or 80A to replace it

 

You wouldnt want to run the 120 amp since it has a higher rating than the fuse box. The fuse box would fail and potentially catch fire before the breaker would even trip.

If you had a breaker that was rated the same or lower than the fuse box, you woukd be in the clear. Currently, its wouldnt be safe or wise to run it even if you are pulling way below the maximum rating.

It would similar to running too small of wire to your accessory. Would the accessory be powered? Most likely, but is it safe or even logical to do? Not at all.

 

You could put a 100 amp in line fuse before the blue sea box, but the right way to fix it is to return the breaker you got and get a 100 amp unit.