Show off your aux fuse panels.

Started on mine today, weather permitting I'll get it in the truck tomorrow

 

Did this a few months ago but I just saw this thread.
Built mine from a panel from an old drive unit.

 

Made from Lexan then Rhino Lined... Relays are mounted on the bottom

 

Pelfreybilt panel, powdercoated. Just began hooking things up to it.

Updated: now with heat-shrink

 

i have a paranoid blank plate i need to install on my first gen. have had it for about 3 months now

 

u fancy, i aint like that lol

 

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the light has 2 wires, the relay has 5, the switch has 4. Where do the rest of the wires come from??

All I need to do is plug positive and negative, and i dont have to worry about anything else

 

My set up is almost identical. I'll get some photos on here this weekend.

 

The edge of each cutout will, over time, wear down the insulation on your outbound primary wires. Even if the wires are not in contact with the metal right now, they can shift around due to vibration.

I would advise sheathing these primary wires or lining each cutout with square grommet.

 

Appreciate the advice the powdercoat did make those sharp edges smooth, but I will sheathe them if I can't find the square grommets. Any recommendation on where to find some that will fit the pelfrey panel?

 

No problem at all. I've learned some hard lessons over the years.

I would measure them and then check eBay or maybe Dell City's catalogue to see what they have available.

 

Here's my setup...

I have tried to document my auxiliary power system as well as possible. I have attached links to the products I used for clarification. If you need any further information, shoot me a PM or post here. I'll be happy to help out. Also, here is a link to my Group 31 AGM X2Power battery install and long-term user experience thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-31-battery-long-term-user-experience.454781/

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A few notes,

-Everything is a bit dusty. I recently returned from Moab and Colorado and haven't had the time to blowout my engine bay and bed with compressed air.

-I also started labeling my fuse panels with a vinyl label maker, but ran out of label tape halfway through the project. I have never been a fan of the aluminum labels that come with the BlueSea fuse panels. They never stick well and the permanent ink fades after a couple of weeks.

-All of my connections are soldered and wrapped with marine-grade heat shrink tubing for increased insulation/durability and moisture/dust resistance. I also exclusively use Delphi WeatherPack quick disconnects. They're OEM-quality connectors that are also moisture and dust proof. If you decide to undertake your own wiring projects, I highly recommend investing in a WeatherPack connector kit. I have never had one short and/or fail. I use them on all of my lights, connectors at the front fuse panel (hidden under the mounting plate), and the quick disconnect for my Snugtop.

-More or less, I've been using this entire auxiliary power system for about two years now (roughly 50k miles) with zero issues. I'm a fan of the "do it right, do it once" mentality.

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Under the hood I have a BlueSea double marine fuse terminal on the battery. This creates two fused auxiliary circuits: one circuit feeds the front fuse panel, and the other sends power to my rear fuse panel. I also have a BlueSea bussbar on my negative terminal post to tidy up the ground wires from my IPF Dual Beam lights and auxiliary SharpTone Hella horns.

Photos:


Products used:

$32 Blue Sea Systems 2151 Dual MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 30 to 300A

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...catcorr&keywords=blue+sea+terminal+fuse+block

*Keep in mind that the BlueSea Terminal Block uses their post-style fuses. They're a bit pricey (around $10-15), but I have never had one fail - you're paying for the BlueSea quality and compact design. I purchased a few of each as I think they're a proprietary fuse design and would be hard to find on the road. I'm sure a marine supply store like West Marine would stock them, but I have never seen them on the shelf in an auto parts store.

$39 Blue Sea Systems ST-Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block Kit (5024-BSS)

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...r&keywords=blue+sea+ST+Blade+battery+terminal

*I cannot remember which vendor I sourced the aluminum fuse panel mount from. It was a TW vendor, but it's been awhile. It was a blank unit, which allowed me to arrange my circuit breaker, fuse panel, and relay box the way I wanted them. I drilled eight pass through holes for the primary wires and insulated them with grommets. The primary wires feed into a two-prong and six-prong Weatherpack connector, respectively. These connectors are plugged at the terminals that are not being used. This allows me to quickly add an accessory in the future whenever I want.

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The front fuse panel is constant hot and is protected with a BlueSea 100amp circuit breaker. The Hella relay box powers my IPF Dual Beam driving lamps (HI/LO beam), Hella SharpTone horns (four total ). The IPFs are controlled via a three-way switch on the dash to turn them off, sync them with both the OEM HI/LO beams, or sync them with the OEM HI beams only (my preferred setting). Additionally, this panel feeds my Painless CirKit Boss ignition hot fuse panel - behind the dash. The CirKit Boss powers my Cobra 75 WX ST CB (mounted under the passenger seat) and GPS units (Garmin 205W and BadElf GPS receiver - both hard wired on a RAM mount via a Bird Dawg mirror riser and powered via a dash "GPS" Contura switch).

Photos:


Products used:

BlueSea 100amp circuit breaker:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-The...1-6&keywords=blue+sea+100+amp+circuit+breaker

BlueSea 12-circuit fuse panel:

$38 Blue Sea Systems 5029 Fuse Block Screw Term Blade

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMH1GC?ref=emc_b_5_t

Hella 4-way relay box:

$47 HELLA H84988001 4-Way Mini Relay Box Kit,regular

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H84988...502938723&sr=8-1&keywords=hella+for+relay+box

Delphi WeatherPack kit:

$200 Weather Pack Connector Kit WP-405 with T-18: 1, 2, and 3 Way Sealed Weatherproof Automotive Electrical Connectors 20-12 Gauge 405 Piece Kit With T-18 Crimp Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Pack...d=1502939016&sr=1-11&keywords=weatherpack+kit

Painless Wiring 3-circuit CirKit Boss fuse block:

$89 Painless Performance 70103 Cirkit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block, 3-Circuits (1 Constant/2 Ignition)

https://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wir...02938882&sr=1-4&keywords=painless+cirkit+boss

OTRATTW OEM-switches:
https://otrattw.net/

Generic Garmin hardwire kit (I used two - one for the BadElf and one for the Garmin 205W, they're soldered in line):

$12 EDO Tech® Multi-Use Compact Direct USB Hardwire Car Charger Cable Kit for Garmin GPS Nuvi StreetPilot, Great for Vehicle and Bike (no Traffic Receiver)

https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Use-Co...=1-2-spons&keywords=garmin+hardwire+kit&psc=1

Bird Dawg mirror riser:
http://www.birddawgindustries.com/mirror-riser.html

I use RAM mounts to secure all of my electronics in the truck. They're military-grade mounts. I have found the 1" ball design to be sufficient for light GPS units and my iPad:
http://www.rammount.com/

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The rear fuse panel is located in the bed and is constant hot. It is hidden under the passenger side access panel of my ARB Outback Solutions drawers. It is protected by a BlueSea 50 amp circuit breaker. As of now it powers my ARB 37 quart fridge/freezer (via an ARB surface mount threaded power outlet) and my interior camper shell / liftgate LED work lights in the Snugtop.

Photos:


Products used:

BlueSea 50amp circuit breaker:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Cir...id=1502939358&sr=1-7&keywords=blue+sea+50+amp

BlueSea 6-circuit fuse panel (with ground buss):

$52 Blue Sea Systems 6 Circuit Blade Fuse Block With Negative Bus 100 Amp Max Per Block 30 Per Circuit

https://www.amazon.com/Systems-Circ...39501&sr=1-2&keywords=blue+sea+6+circuit+fuse

ARB threaded surface mount socket:

$16 ARB 10900028 Threaded Socket/Surface Mount Outlet

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10900028...=1502939541&sr=8-1&keywords=arb+surface+mount

* I cannot find a link to the watertight pass through grommets. IIRC, I got them from Dell City. They're awesome grommets that seal out moisture completely. The gasket tightens down around the wire when the nut is turned - very clever.

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Here is what the interior of my camper shell (Snugtop Rebel) looks like in its current configuration:


Eventually I want to install a panel of OTRATTW switches for the fridge power, lights, air compressor, RV water pump (fed by an on-board water tank), a few USB power outlets, and a pass-through three-prong outlet for the TRD inverter - similar to this:

 

does anyone sell just a blank plate that mounts near the existing fuse block that i can mount a fuse panel and breakers too? like the pelfrybilt one, but no holes predrilled. thanks

 

I purchased mine from a vendor on here. I'll have to dig through old PMs to locate his username. It was completely blank. I had to drill the mounting holes, etc.

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EDIT: @famous187 , @Yotamac made my blank mounting plate.

 

like this for a first gen?
https://www.paranoidfabrications.co...roducts/1st-gen-tacoma-holder-with-no-cutouts
or second gen?
https://www.paranoidfabrications.co...oducts/2nd-gen-tacoma-fuse-relay-holder-blank

 

yes, thats exactly what i need BUT my truck ('14 off road) has an electrical box on the side of the reservoir, i dont think that one would fit.

 

if you have some measurements i can always make a custom one