Show off your aux fuse panels.

The best option is to just use a 4 pin relay that doesn't have pin 87A if you don't need the functionality.

For the middle pin, pull power from the incab fuse box by using an add-a-circuit fuse tap. If you want to be able to turn them on at anytime, put the fuse tap on a circuit that has constant power. If you only want to be able to turn them on when the truck is on, put the fuse tap on an ignition powered circuit.

The bottom-left pin goes to pin 86 on your relay.

For the bottom-right pin, pull power from the TAIL fuse on the incab fuse box using an add-a-circuit.

Pin 87 of the relay attaches to the positive wire for whatever it is that you're trying to power. If you wired to Pin 87A, what you are trying to power would turn off when you turned on the incab switch and be on the rest of the time.

 

Thank you very much.

I got the 5 pin relays as they had some with waterproof caps.

This is my outline now:
5 Pin Rocker Switches
· Top two blades are grounds (ground all switches to common ground inside chassis)
· Middle pin is power in (Pull power from the in cab fuse box by using a fuse tap. If you want to turn them on at any time, put the fuse tap on a circuit that has constant power. If you only want to turn them on when the truck is on, put the fuse tap on an ignition powered circuit.)
· Left bottom pin is power out to relay through firewall????
· Right bottom pin is lower LED light (Pull power from the tail fuse on in cab fuse box using a fuse tap.)

Relay Switches
· Pin #30 - Constant power (fused) from battery
· Pin #85 - Ground for relay (ground to battery)
· Pin #86 - Power to switch trigger (left bottom pin on switch)????
· Pin #87 - Power out to accessory (Attach to positive wire for accessory.)
· Pin #87A - Cap off

This makes it a lot clearer leaving my electrically challenged mind with only one item to clear up regarding Pin #86 and the switch. Does the lower left pin on the switch go to Pin #86 on the relay? Think I had it right but just want one last confirmation.

Appreciate your help immensely.

 

I started to grasp this idea reading through the capping talk. I realized I ordered 5 pins just before this knowledge was brought to my attention so I just ordered a set of 4 pin relays and will hold onto the 5pins until I have something that uses the functionality.

 

Yes. The bottom left switch pin goes to pin 86 on the relay. It's there in my reply that you quoted.

There isn't a lot of need for 5-pin relays when you're just wiring up stuff that is either on or off. I'd just return them if you can.

 

Appreciate your patience!!! Getting all my ducks in order to add a ********* amp system and rewire some things that were not done right the first time. Will post some pics after I finish up and my dual battery system and current set up is here.

 

Did just that, caught the order before it shipped and canceled the 5pins and had them add 4pins instead.

 

From the breaker to the fuse box, did you make those cables or buy them?

 

Where does everyone get red 4 gauge or larger? All my local shops only carry black. I am going to have to shrink wrap a black cable red so my idiot self doesn't forget its hot.

 

Amazon.

Search for welding wire, and I would recommend against CCA

 

I considered this but smallest amount I could find was 10 feet at $1.70 a foot. I honestly don't have any use for the other 8 feet. I got 3 feet of black at lowes for $3, just planning on using red heat shrink on it since I already have the heat shrink.

 

$26 4 Gauge 4 AWG 5 Feet Black + 5 Feet Red Welding Battery Pure Copper Flexible Cable Wire - Car, Inverter, RV, Solar

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUC8XYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Red and Black - multiple length options.

 

I must have scrolled over the 5 foot one or thought it was 15 foot while scrolling. Still $15 more than what I have paid for just black.

 

Just be sure it's not labeled "CC". That means its not solid but copper coated aluminum.

 

Nope stuff I got is stranded copper. Made sure not to get any aluminum coated.

 

I made them

 

Does anyone wrap the outside edge of their plates in any kind of rubber or trim to help in the event something is close to rubbing?

 

If that looks to be likely I would use some door edge trim.

 

I did used the leftovers from when I cut rear for high clearance bumper

 

I am pretty close to the main wire run that goes over the driver side wheel well then cuts across the top of the firewall. I can pull it back away from the plate but I dont want it to slip back and potentially rub. I am planning to zip tie it back but I am not under my hood every day watching things.

 

Sounds like it at the very least is on your mind. Best to deal with it and eliminate the concern, zip tie, edge trim, or both as suits.