Show off your aux fuse panels.

finally installed. using both switchpro and rtmr. the switchpro catches most of the extra lights and the rtmr catches the interior and other accessories (front cam, etc)

switchpro mounting was a little tricky because i didn't want to block the small factory relay box and i wanted it upright to minimize the risk of corrosion.

 

Finally got it done! Main reason was to have power at rear of truck to charge/ assist with my dump trailer. (It’s a pita for me to park it near power to charge every night) so this allows up to 50 amps to the trailer battery via the solonoid while driving between jobs. Plus the relay/ fuse box for the lights that are next in the list...(bed lights, rear facing work lights and either a light bar or Ligtforce halogens up front.) Coupled with a Meso 7 switch panel for the center I’m pretty happy.

 

I am building my aux fuse panel now. I just ordered my bracket from @paranoid56. Thanks Buddy! Now I need a 100 Amp circuit breaker. I should use a

$33 Bussmann CB185-100 100 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker

Bussmann CB185-100 100 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker right?

 

Depends on how many amps your fuse block is rated for.

 

Work in progress...

 

Sub'd. About to start this project on my 06 DCSB

 

Only 100/90w headlights and a Hella horn on for now.

 

Subb'd for ideas. Need to upgrade my panel and clean everything up. Obviously not the final idea, probably going to post my master power and fuse block on top of the the stock fuse box.

 

I saved some coin by buying a scrap piece of aluminum that already had bends I could use. Not perfect, but very usable and almost every bit of the excess has come in handy for other bits and pieces.


Along the left side under the rtmr you might make out where I bent that side down flat to create more space for it.

 

Here's a link on the site for the rear housings and the terminals you need for them.

https://www.otrattw.net/Contura-V-Series-Accessories-Terminals-and-Terminal-Housings/

The terminals you need are the Packard 630 type. Click on "terminals" then scroll down. The terminals come in size ranges so get the ones you need to fit the gauge wire you are using. You can mix and match terminal sizes within the same rear housing, for example if you need a larger 12 gauge wire for power but only 20 gauge wire for illumination they both will snap into the housing, just the part that crimps onto the wire is different.

You'll also need special crimpers, but they're not too pricey.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crimp-Tool...h=item5b4c41c496:g:eaEAAOSwL1hbld~G:rk:1:pf:0

I bought a pair of crimpers just like this. Just searched ebay for "Packard 630 crimpers" You can prob find a more legit pair but these cheap ones worked for me no problem.

The hard part of building the switch backs is the intellectual part. Once you figure out all the placement of wires, making the housing is not very tough. It helps a lot to make a diagram. If you need to jumper two terminals together make sure you use a long enough piece of wire. After you figure it all out it's fairly easy to crimp all the connectors onto the wires then just snap them into the housing. The tough part is figuring out where each wire goes but the OTTRAW switches comes with good diagrams that help a lot. There's also lots of great info on the forum.

 

@weldo - thanks man. This the information I needed. I'm putting in my orders now. I planned on using the same gauge wire all around for the switchbacks, including the wire out to the relay. Then 12 awg for the relay power, ground, and out to the accessory. That sound right?

what gauge wire did you use or suggest for the switchbacks?

 

I think I used 16 just because I found a bunch of spools of different colors at work. It probably could have been thinner, like 18 or 20 but there’s no harm in going a bit bigger than needed.

 

Use the AWG chart. Amps being carried requires certain gauge wire. Then wire length is crucial too for choosing gauge.

 

I'm upgrading my electrical system to get a clean wire setup and prepare for my winch installation and eventually a HO alternator and long long term dual battery. Plus its is an excuse to work on my truck. It is two part: 1. doing the big 3/4 upgrade. I picked up a engine battery wire harness no. 2 and will be swapping out the power/ground wires for smaller gauge with OFC cable; 2. is installing a power tray, circuit breaker, blue sea, relays, and a rocker switch panel. I'll be daisy chaining all my rockers power/grounds and have individual color coated wires from rocker - relay - accessory.

Question - I want to only have the relayed accessories hot with ignition. IF I use an add-a-fuse in my fuse panel inside my cab to power my rockers (all daisychained), would that make it so my relays are only hot when my ignition is on? If I had an accessory on and turned off the ignition would that automatically close the relay and turn off the accessory?

 

If a switch controls a relay then the relay can only be on when the switch is on and has power.

 

thanks @bagleboy and @weldo

 

If you have a towing package you already have a 130Amp alternator.

 

Looking for advice on the amperage for a circuit breaker for my Blue Sea fuse panel. I have a six circuit fuse panel that will be used primarily for various light switches (ditch lights, 32” light bar, rear facing diffused lights, etc.). I need to buy a circuit breaker for the fuse panel. How many amps should the circuit breaker be (50, 80, 100)? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

I believe all the common blue seas are rater for 30/ circuit and 100a overall on the block .


Can also save money by doing a waterproof anl fuse holder instead of a breaker

LEIGESAUDIO Copper 0/2/4 Gauge In To 4/8/10 Gauge Out 2 Way Mini ANL Fuse Holder Distribution Block With 100Amp fuses

LEIGESAUDIO Copper 0/4 Gauge to 4/8 Gauge 100 Amp Mini ANL 2 Way Fuse Holder Distribution Block

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C711521/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xYemCbS7ES2JA