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Show off your aux fuse panels.

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Newlife, Dec 29, 2013.

  1. Feb 10, 2020 at 11:35 AM
    #1081
    RyanDCLB

    RyanDCLB Well-Known Member

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    Overland Equipped now makes an all-in-one kit for the aux fuse panel, but unfortunately there can be a conflict with the bracket and the brake wire as seen over here. :der:

    My quick fix is a rubber hose around the brake wire with a zip tie for good measure:

     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2020
    JKU3000, E-Paz 732NJ and Dor like this.
  2. Feb 10, 2020 at 11:49 AM
    #1082
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR Well-Known Member

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    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper, Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Future: ADS Extended length, extended length UCA BJ to increase droop capability Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Future: Hammer Hangers, Shock relocate, ADS 12" or 14" shock. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, retrofit headlight by Insight, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs. Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)
    Ah, the answer is No, not in that configuration. Charge controller accepts two possible input sources - solar and charge from engine up front and produces a controlled charge to the one battery. I dont know enough about your genesis system to figure out if it could be done differently.
     
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  3. Feb 10, 2020 at 12:21 PM
    #1083
    shane100700

    shane100700 Bed, Bath & Beyond Crawler

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    Kinda pricey @ $200, for what it is.
     
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  4. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:15 PM
    #1084
    Dor

    Dor Well-Known Member

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    As far as I can tell it's just a voltage sensor and a solenoid. When both the cranking battery and aux battery are >=13.2 volts it connects them in parallel and any non-factory acccessories hooked to the system drain from both batteries. Once the cranking battery hits 12.7 volts the solenoid disconnects them and any accessories drain from the aux battery only. Handy in that it keeps you from draining your cranking battery too low to start the vehicle with accessories, though if you drain it down by leaving your headlights on or something you can force the solenoid open with a switch and effectively jump yourself.

    Looking at the Renogy DCC50s you linked, sounds like it *would* charge my front AUX battery from solar in my application, but only when the rear house battery was full, and due to the genesis system it would be iffy getting to the cranking battery. I could rip out the existing system and move one battery to the back making it a bank of two, but that makes some of my wiring more complicated and it would make it more complex to jump myself from the aux battery.

    That brings me back around to the original plan of just hooking up the front and rear AUX batteries in parallel and connecting an MPPT solar controller to the rear battery, I'm just not sure how to calculate the number of amps that would be flowing through the connection between the two AUX batteries. I don't know how feasible this is, I haven't found any examples of batteries connected in parallel and not colocated in a battery bank.
     
  5. Feb 10, 2020 at 5:02 PM
    #1085
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR Well-Known Member

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    So what I understand I you want the front aux battery and rear house battery both connected to your loads. The connecting wire gauge should be sized to carry all of the load. Add up either the combined wattage or amperage of all your loads, and let us know.
     
  6. Feb 14, 2020 at 9:28 AM
    #1086
    Pj40

    Pj40 Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys here is my current fuse box and relay holder I made. The nice thing about this specific setup is every single wire has it's own 1/4 inch thick gasket and the top lid has a gasket as well. I personally couldnt find anything I really loved aftermarket and having 6 relays all in one place associated to it's own fuse gives me a wide variety of accessories I can run. The next thing I wanted to make sure of during this build was that everything was fairly simple plug and play when i needed to add anything else. So the distribution blocks are all independent and all I need to do is run the power wire from the accessory and ground that accessory to any solid metal near it. It's all 10awg inside the box wich is way overkill but I didnt want to have any problems with resistance from thinner wire. Also every connection internally is soldered and sealed for double protection against any weather. This build is way overkill but it works great for me!
    All I have to do is make a bon conductive plate for the bottom for mounting it so the wires never have a chance to get rubbed against.
    20191231_201715.jpg
    20191231_201422.jpg
    20191231_194247.jpg

    20191231_201454.jpg
     
  7. Feb 14, 2020 at 10:41 AM
    #1087
    shane100700

    shane100700 Bed, Bath & Beyond Crawler

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    Is that the online led store one? Going to redo mine but debating between open on the bottom (like yours) or a fully enclosed diy one in a project box.


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MR64XK1/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A1EQP448COWZL4&psc=1
     
  8. Feb 14, 2020 at 12:11 PM
    #1088
    Pj40

    Pj40 Well-Known Member

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    yeah its the open bottom online led store one. I was really suprised, the quality is top notch and super awesome to wire. I think I'm gonna build a bottom for it as well to make it easier to mount and to protect the wires some more. I may even built a second one with that fully enclosed box because its currently in my cart I just don't know if I can squeeze 10awg wire in it.
     
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  9. Feb 14, 2020 at 1:01 PM
    #1089
    shane100700

    shane100700 Bed, Bath & Beyond Crawler

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    Based off rough estimates, I was debating using the lid or bottom from the one below. Was going to buy the relay/fuse box first so I could measure the wire depth and bottom opening. Possibly putting an in and out cable (pushing out a cable gland) with an eight pin connector. Then you could remove the whole thing just by unclipping the in, out, pos and neg. vs all the individual inputs.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TS6RY85/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=AKX4PUL0YEZW2&psc=1
     
  10. Feb 26, 2020 at 6:29 AM
    #1090
    dpm89

    dpm89 Member

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    Nothing fancy, but it feels great to do it the right way after running a cheaper/sketchier setup in my last vehicle. For anyone wondering the Paranoid Fabrications fuse tray easily fit in my 2020 TRD Sport although I bought it from another TW member so I'm not sure if the dimensions for the current revision being sold are the same.

    IMG_20200220_215231.jpg
     
  11. Feb 27, 2020 at 12:39 PM
    #1091
    msting22

    msting22 Well-Known Member

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    WeatherTech - Floor Mats Black out badges General Grabber AT2 TRD Baja Rims
    What is everyone using to replace the factory battery terminals? An Amazon link would be awesome.

    Thanks
     
  12. Feb 27, 2020 at 1:02 PM
    #1092
    RyanDCLB

    RyanDCLB Well-Known Member

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  13. Feb 27, 2020 at 3:14 PM
    #1093
    shane100700

    shane100700 Bed, Bath & Beyond Crawler

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  14. Feb 27, 2020 at 7:06 PM
    #1094
    prone2xl

    prone2xl Well-Known Member

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    THIS! looking for something kinda fun and of course functional as well. sex up the battery compartment
     
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  15. Feb 27, 2020 at 7:15 PM
    #1095
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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  16. Feb 27, 2020 at 7:23 PM
    #1096
    prone2xl

    prone2xl Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2020
  17. Feb 27, 2020 at 8:13 PM
    #1097
    prone2xl

    prone2xl Well-Known Member

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    @bagleboy I saw a pic where they were using that one u linked for the negative and the positive another xscorpion one with the digital voltmeter. I may go that route.. lemme see if I can find it. oh yeahhhh there we go. what do u think?
    batteryterminalsbig3bama.jpg
     
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  18. Feb 27, 2020 at 8:19 PM
    #1098
    prone2xl

    prone2xl Well-Known Member

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    a few more ideas i've been lookin at. Something about that clear crystal acrylic cover makes it look kinda badass I think.

    knuconceptzterminals.jpg mictuning.jpg mictuning3.jpg sdhqterminals.png mictuningterminal.jpg
     
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  19. Feb 27, 2020 at 8:32 PM
    #1099
    shane100700

    shane100700 Bed, Bath & Beyond Crawler

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    So what if I’m indecisive...

    Before
    5F2E0B70-85CD-4F0D-B28D-DF9C3AA669E1.jpg

    Coming soon....
    8EF6ACF5-EC75-461C-8F9B-DA184CD4C947.jpg
     
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  20. Feb 27, 2020 at 8:40 PM
    #1100
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    I put a voltmeter in the cab where it’s only on with ignition. Meter on the battery doesn’t get me hot. Plus it looks pretty clunky whereas the exscorpion looks sexy as just a 3-ring terminal. I’ll have to look at cable routing though to decide whether it or the mil spec would be more convenient. I’d actually prefer something with a boot on it over a sexy look.
     
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