Shudder When Accerlerating/Braking

[ QUOTE=birry;8973002]I tend to agree. Any recommendations on an affordable replacement?[/QUOTE]

Did you try Amazon?

 

Haha, not yet. I'm just asking if there are good alternatives to the OEM replacement CB. I've seen some selling in the $40-50 range and wonder how those compare to the OEM version. Heck, for $40 its worth a look.

 

birry, I PM'd an answer to you....

The silicon fix with my cheap aze bearing has solved all my vibration issues...

Many here with driveline vibes would greatly benefit from the simple fix...

good luck...

 

Hey, thanks. I got the messages from yesterday but didn't see any this morning. The only question I have is with regards to the silicone. What type did you use?

 

measured angles today.Turns out I am 2 degrees off on my TC and pinion.Shafts are also running within 2 degrees of eachother.

 

What are you using as a basis for your correct angles? Are you just shooting for less than 3.0 degrees relative difference, or are you using the more refined exact values given in one of the threads about driveline angles like this one: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/244535-drive-shaft-vibrations-solved-step-step.html

 

check rockauto.com too...

...I have no input on quality of any parts. I went OEM and the vibrations were reduced. I further reduced vibrations with washer spacers and just put in the FK29 OME spacer. I haven't eliminated the vibe completely, but it has definitely been improved.

I'm thinking an axle shim and u-bolt flip kit may be in my future.

 

I got some help here for reference and I have some experience.The pinion angle and total shaft deflection on my truck are off.Once you start measuring and doing the math and drawing the angles it all makes better sense.At least for me it does.

I also measured on the flats of the yoke and found the numbers all within the same .2 to .3 from the housings flat spots.

 

Finally picked up my u joints yesterday. I just got all three and got the standard Duralast brand ones from AutoZone. They have a 2 year warranty and grease zerk and were only $13/ea.

I'm going to order a CB today and also considered going the add a leaf route. That's a little more expensive, but would get me in the neighborhood of the total TSB fix. Plus, I wouldn't mind a little extra rigidity back there, especially when the bed is loaded.

Which add a leaf pack would be best for minimal lift? I see some here that could work,

 

I got the 1.5" from Toytec.

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Rear-add-a-leaf-_p_16.html

 

So I'm getting numbers like this (see the angle diagram that's floating around).

Angle 1: Transfer Case to Front Shaft = 5.0 degrees
Angle 2: Front to Rear Shaft = 2.7 degrees
Angle 3: Rear Shaft to Diff = 1.5 degrees

My guess is that both Angle 2 and Angle 3 are shallow right now due to my bunged up carrier bearing. I ordered the DEA bearing and it should arrive next week. I'll re-measure these angles once I get that guy in there with the new u-joints, then start making my adjustments.

The rear shaft angles seem way different than the others I've seen. Makes me wonder what's up with that.

 

I'd flip that CB and try and get 3 on the front joint and 3.5 on the rear joint.May need to shim it down a little after the flip.

 

When you say flip it, you mean rotate the CB around the longitudinal axis of the drive shaft 180 degrees, right?

 

The ears that mount the CB are not centered they are offset.So when you unbolt it and flip it over ,your shaft will go up an inch plus.For me the inch higher made my vibes much worse.So I shimmed it down and it was much better.I got some longer bolts from home depot and a handful of washers to use as shims/spacers.Now that I have the angle gauge I will be dialing this shaft in tighter than the new TSB.

 

Gotcha. I'm wondering if I can eliminate most of my vibes with the new CB and u-joints, then work on getting the angle just right with shims at the CB. That would definitely save some money and trouble with installing another leaf or shims at the rear.

UPDATE: I just flipped the CB and took the truck for a spin. At 0-25 mph, the vibration is very nearly eliminated, including about 60% acceleration. There is still a very slight chirping sound between 0-10 mph and a slight shudder around 10 mph, but not nearly like it was before. I'll test it up to about 65 mph tomorrow and see if I feel any vibes in that range.

My new drive shaft angles are 2.1 (front) and 4.6 (rear). I didn't measure the diff angle yet, but I will at some point before fine tuning. I still suspect the carrier bearing is bad and at least one u-joint. They're all getting replaced within the next week, so I'm hoping it might help. We'll see...

 

I ordered the Wixey gauge and ditched the borrowed craftsman angle finder.Turns out my measurements were dead on anyway.I am 2 degrees off from TC to pinion.Front angle right now is 3.6 and rear is 4.8.My total shaft deflection is 6.8.So I ordered a 2.5 shim.I'll go from 4.8 to 2.3 on the back with the shims installed.Then I'll move the CB up to get 3.0 in the front.That will be .6 up.That will also raise my rear angle another .6 bringing me to 2.9 on the rear.So on paper I will have 3 in on the front joint and 2.9 on the back.They will cancel out the second joint.On paper these numbers should work.

 

Where did you measure the angle of the TC? It was difficult to find a flat surface to zero the angle on.

 

flat spot on the right side.Below the yoke to the right.

 

I'm fairly sure that's where I measured. It was a spot about 1x2 inches that I think was flat enough to zero on vertically. Did you see the angles I got? Do they seem reasonable?

 

So here's my rear u-joint.

It wasn't all the way gone, but it had gotten rusted and probably started to seize up (most likely the source of my squeaking. All the other joints looks well-greased and intact. The needle bearings all fell out with some rust dust when the cap finally came off. That sucker was a PAIN to get out. I had to get some WD40 on it before they finally loosened up. It also sucks when you don't have all the right tools (make sure you have a good breaker bar, a good 6-point 14mm socket, a hammer, a 14mm wrench, and something to mark the shaft with - I used a silver marker).

I'm using this to change out the carrier bearing.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/260283-how-replacing-carrier-bearing.html

Hopefully I'll have it all done before the weekend's over, and I'll report the results at that time.