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Simple dash switch wiring question.

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Big_Salad, May 11, 2020.

?

In which way will OP perish?

  1. Electrical fire

  2. Electrical shock

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  1. May 11, 2020 at 6:53 PM
    #1
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ahoy! I have a switchpro 9100 and blue sea fuse block combo (similar to pic), and I'm running out of room on the switchpro so I'm changing my FTM-400XDR ham radio (12 amp draw) from the switchpro to the blue sea fuse block, and changing on/off functionality to a switch on the dash. The dash switch has a red 1, red 2, black, and green. There is only a power and ground going to the radio. I'm a bit confused and could use a hand. I might be missing a relay, but unclear since I usually just clip all the excess relays and fuses off new components, as I only need power and ground for the switchpro. That might have made it too easy for me.

    Current wiring:
    Power right from the swichpro to the radio.
    Ground right from the terminal block next to the switchpro, to the radio.

    New wiring:
    Is the following correct?

    Power from blue sea fuse block to green wire on switch.
    Red 1 from switch to power wire (red) on ham radio.
    Red 2 to tap-a-fuse on interior fuse block
    Ground I'm having trouble with. In this case I just need to ground the switch correct, since the ham radio is already grounded directly to the blue sea fuse block? So I can just find a ground back there or splice it in to the existing ground?

    This can't be right, since it seems the switch can only handle 3 amps, yet in my proposal it would be taking 12 amps. So where am I going wrong here?

    Thanks for your help!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    MallRoad2wd and Gunshot-6A like this.
  2. May 11, 2020 at 7:36 PM
    #2
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wanted to add that in all the threads I've read about this, there are always 3 wires coming from the component. (Usually a light bar). In my case I've only got a power and a ground coming from the ham radio, which is what is adding to the confusion.
     
  3. May 11, 2020 at 7:39 PM
    #3
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    Green 1 is power for the one led and low amp to allow the switch to send your signal to the red 1. red 2 is for the other led , both in the switch. Red 1 is your trigger for your relay. Black is your ground, just ground anywhere nearby
    Use a relay between the switch and the radio.
     
  4. May 11, 2020 at 7:46 PM
    #4
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Soooo red 2 and green are simply for the switch LEDs huh?
    I don't have a relay anywhere, so unclear about red 1. Red 1 just goes straight to the radio?

    Even with this, I'm still unclear how to turn red and black coming from the radio, into black, green, red 1, and red 2 for the switch, then back into red and black to the battery. I seeminly just gave myself a fish instead of teaching myself how to fish with the switchpro.

    Thanks for the reply!
     
  5. May 11, 2020 at 7:47 PM
    #5
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Allison Park, PA
    Vehicle:
    2017 TRD Sport DCSB 6MT 1995 Landcruiser 2015 Highlander XLE
    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    Example

    Relay2.jpg
     
    DJFriar likes this.
  6. May 11, 2020 at 7:49 PM
    #6
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    Green 1 may not work a led depending on the switch internals, but either way it provides trigger current for your relay and out through red1
     
  7. May 11, 2020 at 7:52 PM
    #7
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Seems I need to add a relay...

    Feels like I would just be adding additional complexity though.
     
  8. May 11, 2020 at 7:52 PM
    #8
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Allison Park, PA
    Vehicle:
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    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    You will be keeping your switch from Burning up

    The relay isolates your switch from the high amps. You could buy a high amp switch, instead.
     
  9. May 11, 2020 at 7:53 PM
    #9
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ah I see. That sounds like a good thing.
     
  10. May 11, 2020 at 7:54 PM
    #10
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Allison Park, PA
    Vehicle:
    2017 TRD Sport DCSB 6MT 1995 Landcruiser 2015 Highlander XLE
    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    Relays keep the high amp stuff away from the switch, out of the passenger compartment, and can separate aux from factory wiring.
     
  11. May 11, 2020 at 11:54 PM
    #11
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok after quite a bit of research and speaking with a knowledgable friend, I have a pretty good understanding of what needs to be done, and how these switches and relays work. Very excited to have a new level of understanding about this.

    This is making a whole lot more sense now.
    If I connect it in this manner, I'm assuming I will not be able to operate the switch when the truck is off. What would I need to do to be able to operate the switch when the truck is off?

    Thanks for the help by the way. Much appreciated.
     
  12. May 12, 2020 at 5:02 AM
    #12
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Allison Park, PA
    Vehicle:
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    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    If you tie in to a always hot circuit for G and R2 then you can operate the switch/relay with the truck off.
     
  13. May 12, 2020 at 5:05 AM
    #13
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Allison Park, PA
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    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    In my setup, I have a wire harness from my powertray (hooked to battery) that comes in to the cab to control all my switches, the harness is always hot because my powetray is always hot. Unless I flip the circuit breaker. This allows my switches and my accessories to work with the truck off.

    20200509_081040.jpg
     
  14. May 13, 2020 at 6:19 AM
    #14
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    I was fooling around with the panel I built last night and testing it, I can not decide if I want the LED and switch hot all the time... I keep going back and forth. The truck rarely sits very long and the LEDs would take forever to kill the battery, but that one time and I would be SOL. I could always just flip the breaker... Something to think about.

    20200512_223940.jpg
     
  15. May 14, 2020 at 10:51 AM
    #15
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So if I just simply don't connect red 2 to anything, and connect green to an always hot circuit, the button will be functional at all times, the LED will light up when button pressed, but never be lit up when the button is off, regardless of truck state. Is this correct?

    That harness is sexy AF by the way.
     
  16. May 14, 2020 at 11:34 AM
    #16
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    Sort of, the switch has two LEDs. One, typically the name (aux lights in mine) is always lit (R2).The symbol in my example, is the Green LED and only lights when I push the switch.
    Thinking about my setup, I am going to tie R2 into my dash circuit, but the Green will be on my always hot panel so I can easily see if I left the switch on.
     
  17. May 14, 2020 at 11:51 AM
    #17
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There it is. That's the right solution. I get it now. Gonna be a damn rats nest just for one switch, but at least it's right.
     
  18. May 14, 2020 at 12:00 PM
    #18
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Allison Park, PA
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    Hood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener!
    Here is my wiring diagram in progress, there may be some mistakes, double check as I am still working on it

    wiring.jpg
     
  19. May 14, 2020 at 12:09 PM
    #19
    Big_Salad

    Big_Salad [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Jesus you need a switchpro my friend.

    Only possible issue I see is having all the switch greens connected directly to the bus. Is that potentially a hazard? What fuse would you pop in there?
     
  20. May 14, 2020 at 12:14 PM
    #20
    Gunshot-6A

    Gunshot-6A Not A Fed

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    I'd run the radio straight off the battery hot and ground. You should be able to turn the radio on/off via a button on the faceplate and avoid all the switching mess.

    Going through a switchpro / bus ground can add "noise" to the transmission signal for the radio, and can potentially mess with your switchpro as well. I was having issues with my 8100 and they specifically asked if I had a radio powered by it.
     

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