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Sliders!

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by crumf20, Apr 12, 2014.

  1. Apr 12, 2014 at 7:44 PM
    #1
    crumf20

    crumf20 [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Anyone got any specs and dimensions for 2nd gen DCSB sliders!? Looking to weld up my own this summer and seeing if I can base mine off of anyones?
    :D
     
  2. Apr 12, 2014 at 7:50 PM
    #2
    MightyMouse-SCT

    MightyMouse-SCT Well-Known Member

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  3. Apr 12, 2014 at 8:52 PM
    #3
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    ARE Camper shell
    Probably gonna need to be bout 80" long. Just get out a tape measure and a piece of paper and get a design down. Really not that hard. Pretty basic and simple. If you have never fabbed anything before then I'd recommend square/rectangle tube just for ease of fab work and joint alignment.
     
  4. May 3, 2014 at 10:45 AM
    #4
    Tonka

    Tonka Well-Known Member

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    I just got done fabbing my own sliders. I used 4- 10ft sections of 1" galvanized water pipe ($20 ea) a MIG and a pipe bender. they turned out great. What I did was find a style I liked (ALL-Pro) and fabricated brackets (which was the most difficult part). once you get the brackets built and installed (takes a lot of walking back and forth to the welder/grinder). I measured my base bar length. (i eyeballed it and liked it at 83") welded it up. then i built the step bar and i wanted the 'flare-out' so i did some trial and error bends on a piece of the scrap pipe. matched both sides. welded then. painted them installed them... loved'em!! :mudding::woot:
     
  5. May 3, 2014 at 10:47 AM
    #5
    Tonka

    Tonka Well-Known Member

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    oh yeah with materials and consumables and buying lunch for my buddy helping me out they coat ~$150
     
  6. May 4, 2014 at 4:16 PM
    #6
    crumf20

    crumf20 [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    AWESOME MAN! Just the response I was looking for!! Post some pics??
     
  7. May 8, 2014 at 11:22 PM
    #7
    Tonka

    Tonka Well-Known Member

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    first picture is the base bar, welded to the three body mounts i built utilizing the OE step bar mount holes. (I decided to go there instead of the frame because I couldnt bring myself to weld/drill anything to my brand new truck frame)

    Second picture is the outer frame of the bar. (trial and error!)

    Third Picture is the almost completed rock slides complete with support gussets

    Fourth picture is self explanatory, i rattle canned them with spray truck bed liner

    fab rock base.jpg
    fab rock.jpg
    10322683_10154048102200142_7500048538401329748_n.jpg
    10177338_10154051260915142_8629702092542395419_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  8. May 8, 2014 at 11:34 PM
    #8
    01Tac0ma

    01Tac0ma Bash Fabriction & Off-Road

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    Look at build!
    LOOKS good, but I hope you don't plan to actually use those!
    pretty sure those mounts would crumble under any load and that pipe would not take very much abuse other than parking lot door dings..

    OP, DCSB are usually 80" along with ECSB both 1st and 2nd gen but length/design is totally upto you.

    Id recommend 1.5" .120 wall tubing (not pipe) at minimum and 3/16 minimum mounting plates and gussets! Most use 1.75" .120 wall tubing for the outer rails and hybrids are generally 2x2 square .120 wall tubing..

    Depending on where you shop at for your materials and what quality of material you use it will run you around $150-$250

    There are lots of pics and ideas floating around, You can follow the link in my sig as well and get some ideas if need be!

    Good luck and post lots of pics!

    If you go the hybrid route youll use approximately 18.2' of square tubing and 15.9' of round tubing... Then whatever size you decide to make your frame mounting plates and gussets... so 1 stick of each material should be good or if you go all round tubing then 2 round sticks would be plenty... Those measurements are guestimates and do not include a kickout
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  9. May 8, 2014 at 11:41 PM
    #9
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Looks good

    Never jack on them or use them as sliders the OEM mounting points will mangle the bottom of the cab
     
  10. May 9, 2014 at 6:43 AM
    #10
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    • 04 SR5 V6 • King/Camburg/Icon/Metal Tech • 16" MT Classic Lock • Hankook RT03 295/75/16 • Shrockworks Sliders • RCI Skids • Hella 4000
    That's a good looking product, but I am with everyone else, those are going to crumble under any load.
     
  11. May 9, 2014 at 8:16 AM
    #11
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist

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    What
    The
    Fuck

    There's a reason sliders are mounted to the frame and not the cab. The cab sheet metal will hold a couple hundred pounds. Congrats on making nerf bars...not sliders.
     
  12. May 9, 2014 at 9:32 AM
    #12
    Toyoland66

    Toyoland66 Well-Known Member

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    You realize that welding galvanized steel releases toxic gasses?
     
  13. May 9, 2014 at 9:36 AM
    #13
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    this was my next WTF...

    here comes lung cancer
     
  14. May 9, 2014 at 9:40 AM
    #14
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    More like death, shit is deadly toxic in gaseous form.
     
  15. May 11, 2014 at 10:53 PM
    #15
    Tonka

    Tonka Well-Known Member

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    #1 I failed to mention that I used 1/4" steel plate with gussets to mount it...
    #2 Galvanized pipe is extremely toxic. However grinding the zinc coating 2-3" away from the weld point and welding outside will make the process nearly harmless
    #3 they do look great! thank you!
     
  16. May 11, 2014 at 10:54 PM
    #16
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Mount it to the bottom of the cab at the factory mount locations or to the frame ?
     
  17. May 12, 2014 at 8:42 AM
    #17
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist

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    1/4" steel plate doesn't wont' help when it's bolted up to sheet metal.
     
  18. May 12, 2014 at 11:14 AM
    #18
    Tonka

    Tonka Well-Known Member

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    we have already established that :rolleyes:


     
  19. May 12, 2014 at 11:15 PM
    #19
    Tonka

    Tonka Well-Known Member

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    to the OP I stated that I used Galvanized water pipe, If you go to Lowe's they carry Southland Pipe & Company piping rating ASTM A-53 sold as generic GAL water pipe. "ASTM A53 is a carbon steel alloy, used for structural steel pipe. The alloy specifications are set by ASTM International, in specification ASTM A53/A53M. A53 pipe is suitable for structural or pressure applications".... I've done the homework.... However like I posted I did mount them to the cab mounts. I live in Florida not the MOAB they will do everything I need them to do and more. I butted the baset pipe to the stock lift point. Im so certain they will hold the truck up that I have Hi-Lifted the truck via the pipe... Is the frame a better spot? yes... but it will suffice for my needs! best of luck to you!
     
  20. May 12, 2014 at 11:18 PM
    #20
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    I wanna see pics of the truck lifted on those things
     
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