Slipping Clutch Post Replacement

yeah at that point all you did was reduce the pivot fork travel to disengage the clutch which could end up causing more harm than good.

 

Not to mention changing the distance between the starter and the ring gear

 

This. That dealership cut a major corner out of laziness and now you're suffering for it.

Btw, don't ever go to the dealer for a clutch job. An independent mechanic will likely do it for half or less than what the dealer charges. My local dealer wanted $3k for a clutch job on my 04.

 

But a non resurfaced flywheel will not cause a slip. It will cause chatter when you let the clutch out but thats different. It would have to be completely trashed, like with metal missing. Something that would allow for extra space in between the pressure plate and the face of the flywheel.

In order for the disc to actually slip you have to have a weak pressure plate or the disc is thin (being covered in grease or oil doesnt help either). If the flywheel was causing the clutch to slip it would have been slipping before the work was done. He said the original problem was a stiff clutch pedal

Think about a brake rotor. You can slap new pads against an old brake rotor and its not like you're garanteed to have a problem.

 

Two thoughts, an obscure one, clutch disk installed wrong side to the flywheel. Most are marked "this side to flywheel" or similar but who knows. The other one,a bad clutch master or slave cylinder. The pedal is mechanically moving freely? Original complaint was "hard pedal". Usually ,clutches slip from oil contamination, low pressure plate clamping force or wear (thin). I only had to resurface one flywheel out of four or five clutches I've changed. That was only because my shop teacher insisted on it because the clutch chattered badly. Turns out, someone had installed a loose pilot bushing sometime before. The wrong one was listed in the parts book and we got the same one as a replacement. We had to hand select one and that cured it. The rest of them were just worn disks, slipping but drivable.

 

It allows the slave cylinder to completely release the clutch. This was on a Ford, so the Tacoma might not need it, just stating facts from my past experience.

From ramclutches.com:

“Often when changing clutches in vehicles with non-adjustable hydraulics, if the flywheel is resurfaced more than .020 inch, a flywheel shim must be used between the crank flange and the flywheel to shim the flywheel to its original position. Since the slave has no adjustment, the only way to make these systems function properly is to have the pressure plate mount so that the fingers are in the exact same position as stock in order for the clutch to release properly.”

Again, I don’t know if the Tacoma is adjustable so this may not apply, just throwing it out there (apparently for all the internet Ninjas to jump all over).

 

If 0.020 inch is going to effect the clutch engagement how do you compensate for clutch disc wear.

 

It doesn’t effect engagement, it effects disengagement on non-adjustable systems. A clutch that doesn’t disengage all the way will wear faster than one that does. You are correct that the spacer doesn’t affect the flywheel, disc, pressure plate distances to each other.

 

What clutch is adjustable? I've changed several clutches over the years and have never seen an adjustment on a hydraulic system to compensate for flywheel wear

 

Hell if I know.

 

Thats less of a problem with a hydraulic/self adjusting clutch linkage like we have on our trucks

 

It compensates for the thickness of the disc

 

Thats pretty hard to do. Even if you managed to get the cover bolted down without noticing, the truck wouldn't even back out of the shop much less make it a few thousand miles

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/02900510.pdf

 

Yes that will adjust the travel at the master cylinder, but where in the slave cylinder would you be adjusting for a machined down flywheel?

 

I don't think the pedal adjustment has much to do with slipping in this case. There is no mechanical linkage between the pedal and the clutch, it's hydraulic. The slipping has to do with the clamping force of the pressure plate spring preload on the clutch disk and flywheel. When the pressure plate uses all of its spring preload due to normal wear of the disk, the clutch starts to slip under load and may later grind when shifting into reverse from neutral. Slipping creates heat and faster wear and that's the end of it. A new disk has about 1/8 inch (.125") of material or more on each side before the rivets hit the flywheel. How much material is normally lost from the flywheel from wear if not grooved by rivets, checked or warped to the point of needing replacement? Maybe .020" at the most? The disk wears away before the metal flywheel.The pressure plate has to have at least 3/8" or more travel in its diaphragm mechanism to allow for normal wear of the disk without slipping.

On a mechanical clutch linkage, yes, the pedal adjustment and the clutch rod adjustment made a big difference. There were wear points throughout that system that needed to be adjusted for frequently. I had one fall apart on me from wear and the pedal slammed to the floor. The bushings and pivot pin were shot at about 90k miles.

 

There is no need. If you machine off enough to make a difference you should replace the flywheel.

 

And you can also make or purchase extended length slave cylinder push rods.

 

What you are describing is an exact match for the TSB you attached in a later post... T-SB-0066-11.
So unfortunately, when they did your clutch for the original problem, they did NOT do any research into the clutches on these trucks, and swapped it out either for a match against the one that was there to begin with, or the one that was first in the list when they did a parts search, OR, worst possibility, is that they also could have mix and matched clutch parts. I.e., an Aisin disk with a Luk pressure plate. It might be helpful if you could find the part numbers on the invoice for the previous work (if you kept them).

There are, in fact, THREE clutches that they provide on the 2.7's.
Luk
Aisin CTX-106
Aisin CTX-107

Either of the Aisin clutches will be fine. The 107 has stronger springs in the pressure plate, but at least compared to the Luk, does NOT require any greater force on the clutch pedal (moving the fulcrum can reduce the pedal force needed without changing the clamping force). Possibly it does compared to the 106, but I've never driven a truck with a 106.

The Luk and the 106 were both used from the factory. The 107 was supplied exclusively as a remedy for the 0066-11 complaints, or when ordered specifically by part number. I have a 107 on mine under 0066-11, and have over 200,000 km worth of commuting, hauling shit that is 2-3x the trailer limit, and pushing a snow plow. Does not slip at all. The Luk didn't slip initially, but started around 15,000 km (i.e., just as it was starting to sit in), notable in 3rd and 4th gear while passing/climbing. Had the bulletin performed under warranty at 20,000 km.

I will note that the mileages you mentioned are 102k miles that it was replaced, and 110k miles that it started slipping. That's a difference of 8k miles or 12,800 km, which is consistent with the 15,000 (-ish) km mine had when it started slipping.

 

That was exactly my point, I guess my point should have been more directed to @megillet in that there is no adjustment in the slave cylinder to compensate for a flywheel that got machined down.