Sloppy Steering Column Fix

You can check for play in the slip joint without taking anything apart. Just unlock the column, reach up underneath the dash and grab the column, then try to move the steering wheel. Any small amount of movement is worthy of fixing. Even though my truck only had about 110,000 on it, it had some play. It's really worth fixing, makes it drive so much better, especially on the highway, takes away the wandering.

 

Just checked it. Yup.....slop.

 

i think it's crazy that the only way to fix this is to basically make the steering column unsafe by welding it. There HAS to be a better, more reliable way to address this! I would love to do this repair, but I couldn't bear the thought of my self or one of my loved ones getting into an accident and the steering column (which was supposed to be collapsible) ends up hurting or killing the driver. there is no guarantee that the tack weld will give during a collision....

 

When its my time to go, its my time

If i can do it. You can. Follow the step by step on the link posted.

 

I'm certainly going to give it a shot. Of the inch of play in the steering, 3/4 of it is in the shaft when I checked it last night.
I thought the play was due to the steering rack which I had replaced last year. Apparently that was wasted money.
But after owning the truck for 13 yrs, I figured it was good to replace it anyway.

 

In agreement for the most part. But not the only way. You could pay big money to have both the upper shaft and lower shaft replaced.

Whats the percentage of agreement that the welds would break or the roll pin would break first?

 

Not a waste. Im sure it was needed.

Also. I did not tack weld as the tack broke the first time. I gave her 2 nice welds on 2 of the 4 sides

 

Considering that Fernando's tack weld broke just by driving it around, and I've seen someone else on her have that happen, I think it's quite likely the tack weld *will* give during a collision. I did the roll pin anyways.

 

one could argue that by doing this fix, you make your truck have better handling response, thus making it safer, decreasing your chances to get into a collision in the first place..

 

I'm sure you could cut and shape some abs plastic and epoxy it to the inner or outer shaft if you're really concerned about the shaft being able to collapse.

 

There might be a couple of other options available. Rather than a roll pin, which would have pretty high shear strength, you might substitute a softer "shear pin". Another alternative that I thought of would be to put the shaft in a hydraulic press and dimple each of the flats of the shaft thereby getting rid of the play between the two. Mine is already welded, and likely my poor welding will fail prior to the shaft coming up though the area where it tilts.

 

I think the thin sheet metal of the column will fail before the roll pin. There's not much surface area contacting it so it should slide diagonally and deform the sheet metal in the column from the looks of what would probably happen. Plus you should have a seat belt and an airbag getting in the way of you and the wheel having a major impact, but like I said, there's ways around it, if you want to take the time to pull it apart and do some problem solving.

 

I wish someone would just do this with JB weld already

 

A single slotted 1/8 roll pin takes 1875lbs for a double shear.

 

I could see that working. If you get a good way of injecting it into the gap and hold it in place while it cures maybe with the roll pin and then knock the roll pin back out. It may or may not have any clamping force, but it doesn't seem like that's important to stop the play between the two shafts.

 

Oh no. Not just driving. I hammer down when im wheeling! Lol

 

Using my new TW member necro allowance to raise this thread from the dead (we're allowed one necro a year, right? )

After a modest 1.5" lift and alignment, I noticed the straighter the freeway the more I have to "micro-rock" the steering wheel back and forth tiny amounts to maintain lane. Some googling later I diagnosed the common taco intermediate steering column play problem discussed here. Guys are tack welding or shoving roll pins in to fix it, but I like the idea of mixing some JB weld or JB kwik weld and smooshing it into the tiny gaps between the two steel columns that are designed to collapse in a collision. I think if I let it set a good 24 hours it would be very solid and eliminate the slop, stand up to daily driving, and maybe even as a bonus preserve the safety of the collapsing column. Can anyone see flaws in my plan?

 

A drill press would be nice for this. I didnt drill the hole straight.

 

Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow morning.

 

If you're going through all the trouble of removing the steering column just get the damn thing welded. Muffler shop or any non chain mechanic would be happy to do it for a quick $20. My welder buddy recommended 4 tacks evenly however Im sure this is way overkill. Whichever way you go with, its well worth the time.